Diana Skyhawk moderator adapter?

Just picked up a Skyhawk in .22 from AoA yesterday. Really like this little guy. It has a bit of a big bark though. Does anyone know of any type of adapter to put a moderator on it?

I searched DonnyFl’s page and didn’t find anything. I wonder if any of the other adapters fit. 

Any input greatly appreciated. 

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Donny does have an adapter. It’s under the p15/Skyhawk. 



Also so you can unscrew the shroud and the air stripper which will expose a 1/2 x 20 unf thread. I have attached a tonto to mine which made a little difference so I would recommend going with the KOI from Donny for results. I also noticed my groups got better with the moderator attached directly to the barrel. Hope this helps.

luis 
 
Wrong. The barrel on the P15/Skyhawk is most definately not 1/2 x 20. The actual barrel thread is M12x1.25 thread pitch. I had a hell of a time finding a nut to protect the threads when I was working on the barrel.

A lot of guys over at GTA got their Donnyfl's to thread on because they are close, but you are screwing up the threads. The adapter for the shroud works great. Don't b!tch up your threads doing this. Their is plenty of documentation around to back me up on this too.


 
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Thanks for all the info guys! I really don’t know how I missed the adapter on Donny’s page, but now I see it. Sure would be nice to order the whole Air fective baffle kit from England but it’s like 80 bucks plus the wait. I think I’ll go the DonnyFl route for now. Cheaper, quicker and this is not my main shooter. It’s just a little ratting gun. It doesn’t have to be perfect. I just wanted an extra gun to keep the ATN Xsight on and not have to take off the scopes from my other guns. 



Thanks again for all the quick input. Super greatly appreciated. 
 
if you want to eliminate the stock shroud and attach directly to the barrel-----Donnyfl WILL make you an adapter that fits the P15/Skyhawk barrel. you have to email him. Then the Tanto or Koi fit perfectly. On my 30fpe .22 the Tanto is sufficient, IMO, if you are looking to remain close to OEM length.

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On my 45fpe .25, I have a Donnyfl adapter and Tatsu. IMO, the Tatsu is perfect when coupled with the OEM shroud. It only adds 4.5".

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The best way to drop the DB level of the P15 is to keep the oem shroud on,
and add the thread-on adapter 1/2"-20 UNF adapter. [ I use a DonnyFL #A10 ]
Here's the setup after a RONIN was installed..

1551900401_3903067595c801ef1d04d06.90956032_IMG_20190228_212408_01.jpg
 

STO mentioned shroud vs. no shroud.. This is a BIG one.. 
Keeping a shroud on will absolutely aid in lowering the DBs. 
Removing a shroud, and directly attaching just a suppressor will still work, 
but, it won't work quite as well. I've tested and confirmed that personally..

My puncher breaker came as the 'Silent' [shrouded] model..
I removed the shroud, to keep the overall length of the rifle down.. 
When the RONIN is used, it gets a Lot quieter, but, 
not as quiet as it would be if it remained shrouded also..

To get the minimum DBs, I used to use an EMPEROR V3 

Shrouded, it would probably get the same results with the RONIN. 

🙂👍 

Sam -
 
Im planning in staying shrouded. Like the looks A LOT better. The extra 4 or 6 inches is not a big deal I think it actually looks pretty cool with the moderator attached. I did put the stick baffles back in last night just to test sound difference and I think there is a bit less noise with the baffles in. AOA took them out prior to delivering the gun stating that the baffles make the gun shoot crappy. Haven’t had a chance to test accuracy with the baffles yet but that’s my next shooting experiment. 

I did end up ordering the Donny adapter since I already have a few moderators. We’ll see what she sounds like once the adapter gets here. 
 
Oh! A few things that I forgot to mention before..

When I got my P15, the internal baffles 'rattled'. I could tip the run barrel up then down, 
and hear a bit of sliding, then hear a little 'clink' It was pretty annoying..

I removed the shroud, made sure that the bracket was screwed tightly to the barrel, 
then reinstalled the shroud, and did it again . . . same deal. *face palm* 

I tested the suppressor with and without the baffles in the shroud.. 
To be honest, I didn't notice that much of a difference, so, I just ran with them out..
When I removed them, they didn't just slide / fall out either..
Each one of the baffled needed to be knocked out using a few ratchet extensions.. *shrug*

Anyway.. The one downside of using a suppressor [at least the two large dia version that I use]

The P15 uses a fill probe cover that slides forward, and, smacks right into the back of the suppressor.. 
It couldn't just twist like they do on other guns/tanks.. Nope, that'd be way too convenient. haha

So, I have to remove the suppressor, fill the tank, and reinstall the suppressor each time..

Not that big of a deal - especially since I don't notice any difference in points of impact, zeroing, etc.

But just a heads up / Something to think about.

🙂👍 

Sam -
 
Sam, slide the shroud forward approximately 1 inch and you wont have to remove the suppressor to fill. Look close at the pic of my p15 with a Tatsu. You won't have to go far.

I actually played around with ideas on how to to move the shroud around to get more clearance/length in the front, 
but when I did, nothing was really 'tight'... When you moved your shroud forward.. Did you move the internal barrel adapter forward too? 
Where the shroud screws on to? Everything on mine is bottomed out / farthest rearward, and tight.. I didn't want to chance any deviations 

Thanks!

🙂👍

Sam -
 
The key to keeping the shroud firmly located is having the shroud screwed tightly against baffles or a spacer located between the front cap/adapter and air stripper. The rear shroud cap/plug moves forward as well.

I have used curler/felt/washer baffles that extended the shroud 5-6 inches with no clipping. Again the key is to have something firmly sandwiched between the front cap and air stripper. A heavy spring, a spacer, or baffles. The hair curler baffles work great for this purpose. 



Here is a post on GTA which covers various shroud options I and others have experimented with.



https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=152862.0


 
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Mike, Right on man, good deal!

I was initially thinking about two other options as well.. 
1 was to modify [extend] the length of the 'air stripper' 
[lucky for me, I work w/ metal and TIG weld]
[Unlucky for me, I'm over an hour away from my mini-shop]
2 was to snag some 3k cf tubing, and fab a new shroud all together
[I still may opt for that, as I'd like to do a few for other rifles also]

The options you mentioned would work great - especially for others! 
Simple and effective!

+1'd ya for the helpful info! 

👍👍 

Sam -
 
My Skyhawk clipped badly with the Donnyfl adapter and Koi.

i doubt it was the fault of Donnyfl’s equipment. The Spa barrels are known to be problematic at times and not have the bores centered.

How bad was it? At 12 yards inch groups with the shroud, add the adapter and at 8 yards the pellets struck 6 inches to the left and low.

Inspection of the Spa barrel revealed a very tight spot one inch past the lead, I polished that tight spot out, it shot somewhat better, but again trying the shroud adapter and Koi combination yielded the same 8 yard 6 inch thrown shots. With just the adapter and no Koi it did not clip, most likely the added length magnified the inconsistency of the barrel.

I repeat, I don’t think this was a Donnyfl problem.

The rifle with that lovely walnut stock is at JSAR getting a new LW Poly chocked barrel, Huna regulator, ported and threaded to the metric thread and the hammer opened for a larger spring and the valve poppet diameter reduced as it struggled to get 18 grains past 800 FPS.

I will revisit the shroud/adapter/Koi combination after it returns. If it still clips, I will get a adapter to screw the Koi directly to the barrel.

One thing to note, two hair curlers wrapped in felt and placed in the shroud was quieter than the baffled shroud and Koi combination.



Roachcreek