I found this video for adjusting fill pressure on the Urban.
I also read this helpful 5-part blog from Tom Gaylord on the PyramidAir site . You can click the links at the beginning to go back to the 1st part.
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Did You Have To Mod Your New Gamo Urban?
- Thread starter Lightyear68
- Start date
I also read this helpful 5-part blog from Tom Gaylord on the PyramidAir site . You can click the links at the beginning to go back to the 1st part.
Thanks Vetmx.
Please be more specific about how to tighten the lug bolt. You're the second person to mention it, so it's something I'd like to understand.
Also, when you addressed the trigger, was it more than making a pull weight adjustment?
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I shot my Urban as is, out the box. The only mod I made was to loosen barrel band nut… It was a great first PCP for me and did not give up anything in practical field accuracy out 50 yards to my more expensive guns. Good gun.
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The lug bolt is just a small hex bolt on the bottom of the charging handle. To get to it you would take the top of the action off. Four bolts to remove. Easy to do, no need to de gas.
The trigger screw is even easier. Take the old one out, use the one from the barrel band.
The further you screw it in the lighter the trigger will get. Go too far and the sears will not reset. Just back it off until it feels right. Be sure to do a safety check after be cocking the gun , point in as safe direction and smack the back of the rifle. If it goes off the trigger is too light.
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Yes, that is it. It is not a big deal to change.
All airguns have seals of some kind pcp, co2 or spring. Those parts are consumables and eventually need servicing just like the breaks on a car. An urban is no different but they are an extremely simple design. You will have no trouble when that time comes. I have had some of my pcp rifles go 20 plus years needing nothing. Don’t sweat it.
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Cut my barrel band off and turned the hammer spring almost all the way in. It was shooting my 30 grain cast slugs close to 30 fpe last time I chronographed it.
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As far as tuning the gun goes, you have to decide on your approach. You can either listen to the gun or force it to be something it’s not. When I got done with his Urban I told him it shoots 4 mags very accurate at 50 yards with 14.3 pellets. If you want to shoot 18gr pellets around 900fps and have a nicely tuned gun, buy another gun. I wound up picking up a different gun for him and set it up for heavier pellets. Now he has two guns with great shot counts and quiet. Both guns making maximum use of what the manufacturer gave me to work with. Barrel length is what hurts the Urban. You can’t push the gun without wasting air. Wasting air makes the gun louder than it should be.
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I agree that it's much more efficient and quieter at 18 to 20 fpe, but the BSA barrel loves my cast slugs so I squeezed everything I could out of mine. It definitely isn't for everyone though.
I should probably mention that a only paid $165 for mine when I bought, but I so it wasn't a big deal to see what I could do with it.
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Here's my progress so far. Unboxed the Urban and did the following:
1. Reference this parts list.
2. Disassembled all except air tube.
3. I watched four videos that helped with disassembly: (1) adjust power; (2) adjust trigger; (3) fix cocking issue; and (4) disassembly.
4. Removed barrel and then the band. I decided to save it intact instead of cutting it off. Lesson learned--there are two 2mm allen screws (part 30 m4x6 grub screws) that hold the barrel in place. The rear 2mm screw came out easy. The front screw had thread lock and was much harder to remove. The heat gun worked to loosen the thread lock. I cleaned the screw and did not add thread lock, just tightened it fully. I wanted to be able to remove the barrel easier for o ring service or cleaning. I'll monitor it to see if it needs thread lock over time.
5. I replaced the 6mm phillips head trigger adjust screw (not shown on parts diagram) with the barrel band screw (part 13 10mm allen head screw). This allows me to adjust the second stage trigger pull as shown in the video.
6. I removed the trigger assembly to get to the charging handle/breech assembly to ensure that the charging handle cocking pin (parts 5&6) was tight and that the hammer latch pin (parts 24&25) was tight. My cocking pin (which I think WildCJ5 called the lug bolt) was tight, so I didn't loosen it. But it was an area others had trouble with so I'll monitor it. I removed and used thread lock on the hammer latch pin and will monitor that also.
7. Then I re-assembled.
8. I'm a Marine who was trained to know my rifle inside and out. I feel better knowing what's inside, and knowing how to inspect o rings, keep them lubed, and check fasteners for tightness. Yep. I voided my warranty before firing my first shot. Not for everybody, but it's what works for me.
I'll add air next and adjust the trigger. Then the scope. Then start breaking it in. I'll update soon.
1. Reference this parts list.
2. Disassembled all except air tube.
3. I watched four videos that helped with disassembly: (1) adjust power; (2) adjust trigger; (3) fix cocking issue; and (4) disassembly.
4. Removed barrel and then the band. I decided to save it intact instead of cutting it off. Lesson learned--there are two 2mm allen screws (part 30 m4x6 grub screws) that hold the barrel in place. The rear 2mm screw came out easy. The front screw had thread lock and was much harder to remove. The heat gun worked to loosen the thread lock. I cleaned the screw and did not add thread lock, just tightened it fully. I wanted to be able to remove the barrel easier for o ring service or cleaning. I'll monitor it to see if it needs thread lock over time.
5. I replaced the 6mm phillips head trigger adjust screw (not shown on parts diagram) with the barrel band screw (part 13 10mm allen head screw). This allows me to adjust the second stage trigger pull as shown in the video.
6. I removed the trigger assembly to get to the charging handle/breech assembly to ensure that the charging handle cocking pin (parts 5&6) was tight and that the hammer latch pin (parts 24&25) was tight. My cocking pin (which I think WildCJ5 called the lug bolt) was tight, so I didn't loosen it. But it was an area others had trouble with so I'll monitor it. I removed and used thread lock on the hammer latch pin and will monitor that also.
7. Then I re-assembled.
8. I'm a Marine who was trained to know my rifle inside and out. I feel better knowing what's inside, and knowing how to inspect o rings, keep them lubed, and check fasteners for tightness. Yep. I voided my warranty before firing my first shot. Not for everybody, but it's what works for me.
I'll add air next and adjust the trigger. Then the scope. Then start breaking it in. I'll update soon.
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I forgot that I also adjusted the power down because I'm on a 20-yard back-yard range and would rather have more shots and less power and noise. See the video in my previous post. Factory setting was 11 full turns to where it stopped at the lowest setting (CCW). I then turned CW 8 full turns instead of the original 11. I'll test fire soon to decide if I will increase the pressure. I'm aiming for 20FPE, and I understand the factory setting is 23-24 FPE. No chrony. I'm hoping to get 30 accurate shots before adding air.
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Here's my first 10 shots after zeroing at 20 yards with my new Gamo Urban. The first five shots were grouped next to the dime for a .312 inch spread. Then one shot in each circle from left to right. Ran out of daylight, so will need to finish a whole target another day. Thanks to those who posted and got me started.
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A few more observations as I learn more about PCP air guns and the Gamo Urban specifically.
1. It took 200 pumps (four brother's handpump) to go from zero to 3000 psi. Then 25 shots drops my pressure to1500 PSI, and another 100 pumps to get me back to 3000 psi. It's not bad for now, but I'll buy a compressor eventually.
2. The screw (that I removed from the barrel rings and used in the trigger for stage 2 adjustment) stopped screwing in before I reached the point where the charge handle would not keep the hammer cocked (indicating it is too light and needs to be turned back CCW for a heavier pull). I might buy the (recommended) screw online and see if that makes a difference.
3. I need more practice using the Lyman digital trigger gauge. I get different measurements each time ranging from 1lb 11 ounces to 1 lb 4 ounces. I'll keep practicing.
4. A few times my trigger's first stage felt sticky--like it was dragging when pulled. After the first shot it would move freely again. Happened just after airing up twice. I'll see if it happens again, or if it was just breaking in.
5. My rubber mulch/plastic bin trap worked well. The moving blanket I used for a backstop (if someone misses the trap) worked to stop the pellet from ricocheting after hitting my concrete foundation ( I tested it once to see if it would work). But I'm going to add a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood between the blanket and the concrete wall. I don't expect to miss the trap, but I like to know it will work safely to prevent ricochets if it happens.
6. My $30 2007 Gamo Scope worked OK to get me started, but it's only a 4X32 with some parallax, so I'm planning to upgrade with a budget scope with adjustable objective and better rings.
7. The Gamo is quiet and neighborhood friendly. I live in a subdivision. While I was shooting, several curious neighbors passed by walking their dogs. They looked to see what I was doing, watched one or two shots, and then continued on their way. The sound is obviously that of an air gun and not a firearm, which is what I was hoping for. It's not much louder than a paintball gun.
8. I will post more lessons learned on my quest for a perfect 250 score on that rimfire target sheet. And after that I'll make the goal to shoot all 25 inside the center ring without breaking the border. I guess 25 center Xs would be like bowling 300...but I think it's possible with a little skill and a lot of luck.
1. It took 200 pumps (four brother's handpump) to go from zero to 3000 psi. Then 25 shots drops my pressure to1500 PSI, and another 100 pumps to get me back to 3000 psi. It's not bad for now, but I'll buy a compressor eventually.
2. The screw (that I removed from the barrel rings and used in the trigger for stage 2 adjustment) stopped screwing in before I reached the point where the charge handle would not keep the hammer cocked (indicating it is too light and needs to be turned back CCW for a heavier pull). I might buy the (recommended) screw online and see if that makes a difference.
3. I need more practice using the Lyman digital trigger gauge. I get different measurements each time ranging from 1lb 11 ounces to 1 lb 4 ounces. I'll keep practicing.
4. A few times my trigger's first stage felt sticky--like it was dragging when pulled. After the first shot it would move freely again. Happened just after airing up twice. I'll see if it happens again, or if it was just breaking in.
5. My rubber mulch/plastic bin trap worked well. The moving blanket I used for a backstop (if someone misses the trap) worked to stop the pellet from ricocheting after hitting my concrete foundation ( I tested it once to see if it would work). But I'm going to add a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood between the blanket and the concrete wall. I don't expect to miss the trap, but I like to know it will work safely to prevent ricochets if it happens.
6. My $30 2007 Gamo Scope worked OK to get me started, but it's only a 4X32 with some parallax, so I'm planning to upgrade with a budget scope with adjustable objective and better rings.
7. The Gamo is quiet and neighborhood friendly. I live in a subdivision. While I was shooting, several curious neighbors passed by walking their dogs. They looked to see what I was doing, watched one or two shots, and then continued on their way. The sound is obviously that of an air gun and not a firearm, which is what I was hoping for. It's not much louder than a paintball gun.
8. I will post more lessons learned on my quest for a perfect 250 score on that rimfire target sheet. And after that I'll make the goal to shoot all 25 inside the center ring without breaking the border. I guess 25 center Xs would be like bowling 300...but I think it's possible with a little skill and a lot of luck.
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