Hi 
Although there is nothing wrong with the original stock I wanted to see if I could make one that fits me better. I wanted a longer stock with more adjustments. There is always an option to buy a new stock..but whats the fun in that?
I am not a professional at this in any way as you will see from the pictures. But he who does not dare..and so on
So i started off planning on making a low budget stock using mainly tools I already had in my "workshop". Top notch finish was not important since I use this gun "all" the time. Mainly at my backyard range (10 to 140 meters) or in the forest close to my home. Some times I bring it with me on camping trips in the mountains. The gun is not for hunting since it is not allowed here in Norway. This is a recreation and training gun with abilities to shoot at distances from 10 to 200 meters (with slugs).
On the original stock the cheek rest is too low and since I shoot with i bipod the stock is a bit short. And thats the main reason why I wanted to make a new stock. Also i didnt want to to inreversable work on the original stock. So on I went!
Started off with a simple drawing on cardboard.
Had some plywood from another project so on it went.
Gluing.
While the glue is drying..shooting
Started working on the inlet doing careful measurements on the original stock and transfering them on to the new one.
Using what i had..
Eventually i had to buy a 32mm router bit. It made things a little bit easier and more precise. The airtube is free floating so there was no need for millimeter precision..but still..
First test fitting.
Inlet "finished".
Getting closer to the shape I wanted.
The old and new.
Shaping.
Wanted the front stock slightly thicker so..more plywood and glue.
Both sides done.
Drilling and mounting the Adjustable Kydex Cheek rest.
Now its time for epoxy, filler and sanding.
Testing several times that the action still fits.
Bedding the easy way with filler (epoxy). Was prepared to work a lot in this, but it worked out well and is rock solid.
I used epoxy filler to shape the grip and make it fit my hand.
Ready to mount adjustable butt pad. Its actually meant as an cheek riser, but can easily be used on the butt pad since this is a airgun with no recoil.
Cheep (eBay) hight adjuster for butt pad I had tried on the original stock.
First layer of paint is on.
And then on to the putting it all together.
So..does it work? Oh yes. Was it worth the time invested? YES! I had a great time and learned a lot. Its` also very recreational doing something I really dont know how to do.
Is it perfect? Far from it. But the next one will be.. This one does the job and is (as far as I know..one of a kind
)
The next thing is to tune it a bit more. Right now its pushing the H&N Piledriver 21gr at +- 248 ms / 813 fps. 65 shots pr. fill. If i lower the reg and use a lighter hammer and shorter hammer spring it shoots the Piledriver at +-228 ms / 748 fps. 120 shots pr. fill. I will go for precision over power as long as i can reach +- 200 meters (218 yards). I am also in the process of testing NSA slugs 15 18 and 21gr.

Although there is nothing wrong with the original stock I wanted to see if I could make one that fits me better. I wanted a longer stock with more adjustments. There is always an option to buy a new stock..but whats the fun in that?


So i started off planning on making a low budget stock using mainly tools I already had in my "workshop". Top notch finish was not important since I use this gun "all" the time. Mainly at my backyard range (10 to 140 meters) or in the forest close to my home. Some times I bring it with me on camping trips in the mountains. The gun is not for hunting since it is not allowed here in Norway. This is a recreation and training gun with abilities to shoot at distances from 10 to 200 meters (with slugs).
On the original stock the cheek rest is too low and since I shoot with i bipod the stock is a bit short. And thats the main reason why I wanted to make a new stock. Also i didnt want to to inreversable work on the original stock. So on I went!
Started off with a simple drawing on cardboard.
Had some plywood from another project so on it went.
Gluing.
While the glue is drying..shooting

Started working on the inlet doing careful measurements on the original stock and transfering them on to the new one.
Using what i had..
Eventually i had to buy a 32mm router bit. It made things a little bit easier and more precise. The airtube is free floating so there was no need for millimeter precision..but still..
First test fitting.
Inlet "finished".
Getting closer to the shape I wanted.
The old and new.
Shaping.
Wanted the front stock slightly thicker so..more plywood and glue.
Both sides done.
Drilling and mounting the Adjustable Kydex Cheek rest.
Now its time for epoxy, filler and sanding.
Testing several times that the action still fits.
Bedding the easy way with filler (epoxy). Was prepared to work a lot in this, but it worked out well and is rock solid.
I used epoxy filler to shape the grip and make it fit my hand.
Ready to mount adjustable butt pad. Its actually meant as an cheek riser, but can easily be used on the butt pad since this is a airgun with no recoil.
Cheep (eBay) hight adjuster for butt pad I had tried on the original stock.
First layer of paint is on.
And then on to the putting it all together.
So..does it work? Oh yes. Was it worth the time invested? YES! I had a great time and learned a lot. Its` also very recreational doing something I really dont know how to do.
Is it perfect? Far from it. But the next one will be.. This one does the job and is (as far as I know..one of a kind

The next thing is to tune it a bit more. Right now its pushing the H&N Piledriver 21gr at +- 248 ms / 813 fps. 65 shots pr. fill. If i lower the reg and use a lighter hammer and shorter hammer spring it shoots the Piledriver at +-228 ms / 748 fps. 120 shots pr. fill. I will go for precision over power as long as i can reach +- 200 meters (218 yards). I am also in the process of testing NSA slugs 15 18 and 21gr.