Do Torque Specs Matter On A PCP Airgun?

Why do most major Manufacturing Companies and Heavy Industry publish torque specifications for their products to maintain replicated quality and performance standards promoting consistency in the product line helping also to maintain warranty and service logistics and the Airgun industry, sans the scope ring industry, has published nothing, or very close to? 

How can we "rebuild" our air rifles time and time again with mods and adjustments without the factory specifications for torque and have a consistency to measure by?

"Hand tight" is not the answer.

Is this how Formula One,Ferrari ,McDonnell Douglas or NASA builds their products with no published specifications?

I think not.


 
Why do most major Manufacturing Companies and Heavy Industry publish torque specifications for their products to maintain replicated quality and performance standards promoting consistency in the product line helping also to maintain warranty and service logistics and the Airgun industry, sans the scope ring industry, has published nothing, or very close to? 

Most heavy industries have torque specs that matter because they are heavy industries and because of the design of the product.

How can we "rebuild" our air rifles time and time again with mods and adjustments without the factory specifications for torque and have a consistency to measure by?

For the most part the torque put on our airguns is mostly mute because o-rings contain the pressure and need very little help toque wise. Parts that do not use o-rings are not that critical because the forces put on them are very small so hand tight is OK.

"Hand tight" is not the answer.

Is this how Formula One,Ferrari ,McDonnell Douglas or NASA builds their products with no published specifications?

Sorry, but our guns are not Formula one cars, Ferrari's or NASA builds

I think not.

I have seen the guns being put together in videos of the factory tours and for the most part I see no torque gauges. It looks like hand tight and locktight for the most part. I would think that there might be a couple of places where torque might matter though for most of it it doesn't.

Being a mechanic for many years one learns that the size of the fastener dictates the torque specs. So small fasteners mean little toque is required that and the many o-rings is why every one says hand tight.

So oops, just a thought after all of that since most people have not been mechanics, just thought about that, torque specs might be useful to them. 😁


 
Correct me if I’m wrong, but torque specs apply mostly, not mainly, to parts, pieces and equipment subject to rotational forces and/or vibration type components- bearings, engines, suspension, driveline, etc. Not a mechanic in the automotive industry, but one of the HVAC industry, and certain fans and units had torque specs called out for mounting to the roof top curbs, along with concrete anchors that were used o suspend equipment up in attics.

on a personal note, I have worked on all my diesel trucks and family vehicles, and have respect to torque values. I usually purchase the shop manual for a vehicle because of the torque values required. It was an eye opener when I started tinkering on powder burners and airguns, as to how delicate I had to be. I had to force myself to stop when snug. More is not better, as mentioned above.
 
Hay especificaciones generales de torque para cada sujetador. El hilo, el diámetro, la longitud y los materiales utilizados determinarán eso.

https://www.google.com/search?q=general+fastener+torque+specs&oq=general+fastener+torque+specs&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.23121j0j7&client=ms-android-sprint-us-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie = UTF-8

+1

Hi

Each screw has its tightening torque and I think airgun manufacturers should choose the screw based on the tightening torque they need on that part

Regards

Enkey 
 
Even with a good pillar mount changing the torque on the stock mounting screw on a Ruger 10/22 will change POI. I agree about torque specs. We have much discussion about adding a barrel band, shimming the band or moving the band but never the screw torque. Depending on material the proper torque could change but consistent torque can only be done with a torque wrench. Torque specs and wrenches are for consistency and to prevent over tightening. Most people over tighten when they say hand tight.
 
Why do most major Manufacturing Companies and Heavy Industry publish torque specifications for their products to maintain replicated quality and performance standards promoting consistency in the product line helping also to maintain warranty and service logistics and the Airgun industry, sans the scope ring industry, has published nothing, or very close to? 

How can we "rebuild" our air rifles time and time again with mods and adjustments without the factory specifications for torque and have a consistency to measure by?

"Hand tight" is not the answer.

Is this how Formula One,Ferrari ,McDonnell Douglas or NASA builds their products with no published specifications?

I think not.


We did some testing with a gun (PCP and Springer) on a vise and tested indoors for precision, we tested from 10 to 40% under and over the correct torque taken from the chart...The purpose of the test was to determine if using different metals (screws) with their correct torque made a difference in precision, but then one of the technicians asked if somebody knew what affected more: over or under torque...No answer, so we extended the testing and included over and under torque figures...

There were no differences once the "hand tight torque level" was achieved and adding more torque did not hurt precision ...Springers were more sensible only when too loose but OK after reaching hand torque...After this testing I don't bother to measure torque in my airguns, I hand torque and then 1/4 of a turn more...I do torque my centerfire and rimfire precision comp guns following the chart but not my hunting guns which I frequently disassemble at camp when it rains/snows.

I once shot a competition without the one and only screw that holds the action to the stock (Steyr LG-110), I probably lost it when I disassembled the gun for putting it inside the case on a previous shoot...So in order not to accidentally drop the barreled action while holding the stock and walking the FT course, I used whatever I had in my tool box and that was a thick rubber band and some duct tape 😄 ...I did very well in that weekly match and the following week 6-8 of my friends shot the match with duct tape placed on different parts of the gun mocking me and that was very fun!...The guy who supposedly held the scope in place with two tape scope mounts won the mocking contest. 

If torque specs in your airgun gives you peace of mind and this raises your confidence level, by all means do it, it doesn't hurt...

Regards,

AZ
 
AZ, Excellent story of real world testing 👏👏👏. Appreciated.

Everyone here has given very valuable insights on the subject. Each of us that love to tinker,tune,adjust,power tune and just like to take things apart to see how the work, all come to this "re-assembly" from our own place of experience and expertise. From Mechanics and HVAC to engineers, machinists and all the creative minds that are part of AGN.

I hope this post helps those who are new to air rifles and to those who just really wonder if they are doing it "to tight" or "to loose"

I have learned a ton.

Thank you AGN for all you insights.

Patrick
 
 

If there is a torque specification and pattern suggested, follow it. If not put all screws in place finger tight. Then medium snug in a spiral pattern. Work from center to outside. Like head bolts are done. If a circular arrangement use the star pattern. Like lug nuts. Then go back and final tighten. Never tighten a screw before all are in place. 

Feeling how tight screws are during disassembly can give an indication of the torque required when you reassemble. Don't always RELY on that. Use some judgement. And don't be hamfisted.