Does anybody make an air drier good for 5000+ psi?

I have a Huben K1 rated for a tad over 5000 PSI and a CS4 compressor supposedly good for 5800 psi.

I can't find an air drier to put between the two that's rated for over 4500 psi.

Does anybody make such a thing?
Begle1

I saw this posted in another thread in the compressor forum:


I don't know if it is legit and I don't have any first hand experience with that particular filter. Good luck on your search.


-PJ
 
If You just feed the compressor Nitrogen at low pressure you don't need any driers, thats all any of my compressors and guns see

If I lugged a nitrogen tank around in addition to the compressor I'd die. Or is there a compact nitrogen generator that works well?
By that matter, how low of dew point do we really need going into the compressor? I've read plenty of "desiccant is better after the compressor" posts but, obviously if air going in is dry enough, air coming out is going to be dry enough too. A permeation tube drier or gallon of desiccant on the compressor inlet doesn't seem like a deal breaker.

Begle1

I saw this posted in another thread in the compressor forum:


I don't know if it is legit and I don't have any first hand experience with that particular filter. Good luck on your search.


-PJ
That seems like the ticket. Airguns have so far gotten me used to buying chineseum with extreme specs.
 
How much benefit are you getting from that last 500psi?
Just because it can doesn't always mean you should or that it will not work if you don't squeeze every drop of air into it.
I rarely if ever completely fill my airguns or tanks. Why overwork and stress everything to the max. Your stuff will last longer and behave a little better if you ease off a little.
 
If I lugged a nitrogen tank around in addition to the compressor I'd die. Or is there a compact nitrogen generator that works well?
By that matter, how low of dew point do we really need going into the compressor? I've read plenty of "desiccant is better after the compressor" posts but, obviously if air going in is dry enough, air coming out is going to be dry enough too. A permeation tube drier or gallon of desiccant on the compressor inlet doesn't seem like a deal breaker.


That seems like the ticket. Airguns have so far gotten me used to buying chineseum with extreme specs.
Begle

Understood, unfortunately it was the only filter I have seen with "specs" in the range you are looking for based on your initial post. How to prove if it is legit or whether it turns into a "shrapnel" launcher is the bigger issue. Keeps us posted if you find anything.

-PJ
 
Begle1

I saw this posted in another thread in the compressor forum:


I don't know if it is legit and I don't have any first hand experience with that particular filter. Good luck on your search.


-PJ
That Amazon filter looks nice but I’ve never heard of a drier with no desiccant in it to remove moisture. Maybe if that filter was in your deep freezer it would work to some degree. Perhaps packing it with molecular sieve would be better.
In scuba we used Grade E air. It was quite dry. Dry air in scuba is necessary especially in cold water diving because any moisture would be subject to adiabatic cooling and would freeze the moisture and usually result in one of the regulators freezing (normally) in an open “free flowing” condition. Which could result in running out of air. In skydiving and scuba, bad things happen when you run out of air.
Alkin’s and Bauers and others areequipped with driers and filtration to produce Grade E air but what I have never read was what does an airgun require to keep it clean an dry. I don’t know how tolerant they are to moisture accumulation. In scuba, regulators are supposed to be torn down and rebuilt every other year, but they are life support systems and fall into a different category.
Lucky are the guys that use nitrogen for their guns, they don’t have moisture concerns.
Testing air for dryness and oil particulate is no big deal but you need the test kit for sampling and then there’s the cost of shipping the sample and the fee for testing. We tested quarterly in the scuba industry, in the U.S.A. anyway.
The test requires air to flow through a filter (to collect oil entrainment) and a sample bottle for 10 or 15 minutes at a specific SCFM and pressure, so it has some demand on the compressor as well.
For as long as I have been reading on AGN (about 3 years) I don’t recall reading many posts of airgunners having moisture or oil issues with their airguns. How big of a problem is moisture for airguns ? Maybe that Amazon filter is entirely adequate for our addiction, and at a nice price, except for it being Amazon.
 
You can get High quality purifiers from many sources that sell HPA Compressors..
The reason behind using Breathing quality air in PCP's, the low moisture content!
Because the high moisture content in compressed air will cause corrosion problems with any surface in contact with the HPA!!
BTW, the reason breathing quality air has a very low moisture content is protect the breathing equipment from corrosion.
But also to keep the regulators from Icing up. Which got lead to a dangerous situation....
 
  • Like
Reactions: rcs9250
How much benefit are you getting from that last 500psi?
Just because it can doesn't always mean you should or that it will not work if you don't squeeze every drop of air into it.
I rarely if ever completely fill my airguns or tanks. Why overwork and stress everything to the max. Your stuff will last longer and behave a little better if you ease off a little.
With the regulator set to 2500 psi, that extra 500 psi should get me roughly 25% more shots per fill, right?
If I paid for the 5000 psi working pressure, I want to use the 5000 psi working pressure... Or at least have the capability to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MrP and Stewy1412
This is the same type of unit on my bauer. Based on the resale of the used units they last a long time.

Screenshot_20230609_170502.jpg

It has all the bleeds necessary. The easy to replace filter/desiccant cartridge you can get for about $50 and will last you a long time considering it is made for filling diving tanks. Here is a current used one on ebay to give you an idea what a used one goes for.



Allen
 
Nitrogen has less than 2 ppm (parts per million)of moisture and a dew point of -94 degrees f. I have a twenty cuft bottle that will fill my Huben at least 20 times from 150bar to 350bar the cylinder is 15 inches tall and 5" in diameter weighs less than 10 lbs
Where did you get that nitrogen cylinder? Is it steel?
 
I have an aluminum right now but last time I had a steel about 4 lbs heavier same dimensions
I got it a local welding supply co. the best value for the dollars would probably be an 80 cf size nitrogen they are about three ft tall and <50lbs
cost wise the 80 runs about $180 the 20 would be about $ 80 if you have a harborfrieght near you get a cheap flowmeter/regulator for 35
not sure where in NY you are but I'll bet theres a local welding supply store near you
 
  • Like
Reactions: seansherman68
I have an aluminum right now but last time I had a steel about 4 lbs heavier same dimensions
I got it a local welding supply co. the best value for the dollars would probably be an 80 cf size nitrogen they are about three ft tall and <50lbs
cost wise the 80 runs about $180 the 20 would be about $ 80 if you have a harborfrieght near you get a cheap flowmeter/regulator for 35
not sure where in NY you are but I'll bet theres a local welding supply store near you
Thanks, I’ll check with my local welding supplier. I have a large 6000 psi nitrogen cylinder but would like something more portable.
 
I have a Huben K1 rated for a tad over 5000 PSI and a CS4 compressor supposedly good for 5800 psi.

I can't find an air drier to put between the two that's rated for over 4500 psi.

Does anybody make such a thing?
no high pressure air is only dried through dessicant tower/filters if you have an old freezer and small enough compressor stick it in the freezer and run the cord out the defrost drain the air inside is dry and it could run longer because of the cooling