Does blitz clip suppresors full auto?

You need to buy/make an adapter so you can screw on a suppressor. I think Donny FL makes some but they are expensive.
I've bought one but haven't tried it yet, I guess it's possible to hit the suppressor but for that to happen there has to be flex or the suppressor is too long.

https://donnyfl.net/collections/adapters/products/hatsan-blitz-1-2-x-20-adapter

You might need to increase the front barrel spring tension or lower/replace it, I've read that a suppressor might make it harder for the Blitz to cycle.
My experience with the Blitz is pretty bad but after some adjustments mine works perfectly now except that the accuracy is garbage.

If the magazine spring tension isn't high enough the probe will clip the magazine. There are guides on how to do so, one method is to drill a hole in the magazine and move the spring anchor to it to get half a rotation of more spring tension or you might just want to turn it an extra revolution.
My Blitz was lubricated using some white paste, I removed it and used a gun oil instead, this sped up the mechanism trough so had to increase magazine spring tension so new rounds would cycle faster. I have a chronograph that can measure shots per minute and if I remember correctly my Blitz fires .25 at 1200 rounds per minute.

As for your original question, I'd only worry if you were going full auto. As mentioned above you might need to increase hammer spring so more air is used if you install a suppressor. How the Blitz works is really simple, there is a rod that goes next to the barrel to the front of the rifle where a plastic air catcher is located. When the rifle is fired the air catcher is forced forwards pulling the rod with it. In the middle of the rifle there is a gear that this mechanic rotates, the gear has a toothed metal part that is forced backwards by the gears rotation, this pushes the charging handle backwards so a new round can cycle.
Really simple and really efficient when it comes to rate of fire as the rifle can fire as fast as the mechanical parts can move.
 
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You need to buy/make an adapter so you can screw on a suppressor. I think Donny FL makes some but they are expensive.
I've bought one but haven't tried it yet, I guess it's possible to hit the suppressor but for that to happen there has to be flex or the suppressor is too long.

https://donnyfl.net/collections/adapters/products/hatsan-blitz-1-2-x-20-adapter

You might need to increase the spring tension or lower/replace it, I've read that a suppressor might make it harder for the Blitz to cycle.
My experience with the Blitz is pretty bad but after some adjustments mine works perfectly now except that the accuracy is garbage.

If the magazine spring tension isn't high enough the probe will clip the magazine. There are guides on how to do so, one method is to drill a hole in the magazine and move the spring anchor to it to get half a rotation of more spring tension or you might just want to turn it an extra revolution.
My Blitz was lubricated using some white paste, I removed it and used a gun oil instead, this sped up the mechanism trough so had to increase magazine spring tension so new rounds would cycle faster. I have a chronograph that can measure shots per minute and if I remember correctly my Blitz fires .25 at 1200 rounds per minute.

As for your original question, I'd only worry if you were going full auto. As mentioned above you might need to increase hammer spring so more air is used if you install a suppressor. How the Blitz works is really simple, there is a rod that goes next to the barrel to the front of the rifle where a plastic air catcher is located. When the rifle is fired the air catcher is forced forwards pulling the rod with it. In the middle of the rifle there is a gear that this mechanic rotates, the gear has a toothed metal part that is forced backwards by the gears rotation, this pushes the charging handle backwards so a new round can cycle.
Really simple and really efficient when it comes to rate of fire as the rifle can fire as fast as the mechanical parts can move.
Appreciate the conclusive reply. What did you do did you drill a hole in the mag or do a rotation over sounds like 2nd opt would be a bit easier does it work as well?, I one time had a problem gamo spring, The inertia magazine wasn't cycling the pellets I had to give the spring a whole extra rotation that got me the proper tension. I am planning on getting the donny fl adapter for the blitz yes shouldnt have issues hopefully Il opt for tatsu.
 
Appreciate the conclusive reply. What did you do did you drill a hole in the mag or do a rotation over sounds like 2nd opt would be a bit easier does it work as well?, I one time had a problem gamo spring, The inertia magazine wasn't cycling the pellets I had to give the spring a whole extra rotation that got me the proper tension. I am planning on getting the donny fl adapter for the blitz yes shouldnt have issues hopefully Il opt for tatsu.
Here is a video on doing a half turn tension on the magazine spring.

Doing a full rotation is much easier, you just need to loosen the screw on the bottom of the mag so you can lift the red plastic part, then spin it and carefully lift it over the magazine rotation stop. You will know exactly what I mean when you see it. You will most likely need to experiment to figure out what your Blitz needs to cycle properly. If full auto works when blank firing the gun is running perfectly as the internal push force will be higher (for easier cycling) when a projectile is blocking the exit.

Here is a adapter video from DonnyFL
 
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only issue I have had 22 caliber.. it won't do full or semi auto with the heavy redesigned jsb.. works bolt action.. but standard jsb is fine and it loves the crossman premier round noze Walmart pellet at $7 tin of 500
Mark
Yea I hope I get one that likes the crosman premier hollows they are like the same thing as the domed . Still kinda deciding 22 or 25 cal blitz was set on 22 sometimes I reconsider makes me wanna get both really, I see crossmans went up to 6.98 recently on amazon and I cant find the subscribe an save option for some reason at the moment on other items I do but I would get them down to $5.93 a tin of 500 .22 pellets, I tuned them in so precise that they group up even at 115 yards about 2.5 inch nsa was doing about an inch but I lube mine an clean em, gives em premium feel, If I catch em down at 6.23 again im dropping like a good few hundred into just that pellet as it works for me I dont need to pay for jsb when I can tune in my crossmans so well out my avenger they shoot like jsbs out of avenger once tuned. Glad I have 10000 at least if they go back down to $5.93 im buying 50 tins I should be set for a whatever happens il run water hopefully before pellets 🤣 .
 
Here is a video on doing a half turn tension on the magazine spring.

Doing a full rotation is much easier, you just need to loosen the screw on the bottom of the mag so you can lift the red plastic part, then spin it and carefully lift it over the magazine rotation stop. You will know exactly what I mean when you see it. You will most likely need to experiment to figure out what your Blitz needs to cycle properly. If full auto works when blank firing the gun is running perfectly as the internal push force will be higher (for easier cycling) when a projectile is blocking the exit.

Here is a adapter video from DonnyFL
Looks like that mag got a big damaged wow, After he went half a revolution an spun it it did look like it had enough torq, I saw that video by izzy he changed out his spring might needa do that.
 
You need to buy/make an adapter so you can screw on a suppressor. I think Donny FL makes some but they are expensive.
I've bought one but haven't tried it yet, I guess it's possible to hit the suppressor but for that to happen there has to be flex or the suppressor is too long.

https://donnyfl.net/collections/adapters/products/hatsan-blitz-1-2-x-20-adapter

You might need to increase the front barrel spring tension or lower/replace it, I've read that a suppressor might make it harder for the Blitz to cycle.
My experience with the Blitz is pretty bad but after some adjustments mine works perfectly now except that the accuracy is garbage.

If the magazine spring tension isn't high enough the probe will clip the magazine. There are guides on how to do so, one method is to drill a hole in the magazine and move the spring anchor to it to get half a rotation of more spring tension or you might just want to turn it an extra revolution.
My Blitz was lubricated using some white paste, I removed it and used a gun oil instead, this sped up the mechanism trough so had to increase magazine spring tension so new rounds would cycle faster. I have a chronograph that can measure shots per minute and if I remember correctly my Blitz fires .25 at 1200 rounds per minute.

As for your original question, I'd only worry if you were going full auto. As mentioned above you might need to increase hammer spring so more air is used if you install a suppressor. How the Blitz works is really simple, there is a rod that goes next to the barrel to the front of the rifle where a plastic air catcher is located. When the rifle is fired the air catcher is forced forwards pulling the rod with it. In the middle of the rifle there is a gear that this mechanic rotates, the gear has a toothed metal part that is forced backwards by the gears rotation, this pushes the charging handle backwards so a new round can cycle.
Really simple and really efficient when it comes to rate of fire as the rifle can fire as fast as the mechanical parts can move.
do you know how to slow down the cycling? factory just seems too fast..??
Mark
 
You need to buy/make an adapter so you can screw on a suppressor. I think Donny FL makes some but they are expensive.
I've bought one but haven't tried it yet, I guess it's possible to hit the suppressor but for that to happen there has to be flex or the suppressor is too long.

https://donnyfl.net/collections/adapters/products/hatsan-blitz-1-2-x-20-adapter

You might need to increase the front barrel spring tension or lower/replace it, I've read that a suppressor might make it harder for the Blitz to cycle.
My experience with the Blitz is pretty bad but after some adjustments mine works perfectly now except that the accuracy is garbage.

If the magazine spring tension isn't high enough the probe will clip the magazine. There are guides on how to do so, one method is to drill a hole in the magazine and move the spring anchor to it to get half a rotation of more spring tension or you might just want to turn it an extra revolution.
My Blitz was lubricated using some white paste, I removed it and used a gun oil instead, this sped up the mechanism trough so had to increase magazine spring tension so new rounds would cycle faster. I have a chronograph that can measure shots per minute and if I remember correctly my Blitz fires .25 at 1200 rounds per minute.

As for your original question, I'd only worry if you were going full auto. As mentioned above you might need to increase hammer spring so more air is used if you install a suppressor. How the Blitz works is really simple, there is a rod that goes next to the barrel to the front of the rifle where a plastic air catcher is located. When the rifle is fired the air catcher is forced forwards pulling the rod with it. In the middle of the rifle there is a gear that this mechanic rotates, the gear has a toothed metal part that is forced backwards by the gears rotation, this pushes the charging handle backwards so a new round can cycle.
Really simple and really efficient when it comes to rate of fire as the rifle can fire as fast as the mechanical parts can move.
mine in 22 will hit a $.25 at 50 yards freehand.. and full auto is same.. under a $.25 I cleaned the barrel and took off the side cover and cleaned out the lead dust.. I added high quality bearing grease to the gears and I also put a little on the hammer and sear.. it made the trigger pull a lot better but I think it would benefit to polish the hammer too..
Mark
 
mine in 22 will hit a $.25 at 50 yards freehand.. and full auto is same.. under a $.25 I cleaned the barrel and took off the side cover and cleaned out the lead dust.. I added high quality bearing grease to the gears and I also put a little on the hammer and sear.. it made the trigger pull a lot better but I think it would benefit to polish the hammer too..
Mark
How did you get to the gears is that all accesable when you get to the hammer spring?, What would be the best grease for that stuff I have white lithium grease, fp10, ballistol, 3 in 1 oil should I buy another greas for this job I want my blitz running smooth an fast cant wait to get it im set on 25 cal them coyotes going down. Im trying to record footage of that with my one leaf would be fun full auto 41 round mag 25 cal.
 
do you know how to slow down the cycling? factory just seems too fast..??
Mark
Only way I know of is by using thicker grease on the gears. The factory grease in mine was some sort of white paste, when I replaced it with gun out it made the whole mechanism a lot smoother and in turn faster.
mine in 22 will hit a $.25 at 50 yards freehand.. and full auto is same.. under a $.25 I cleaned the barrel and took off the side cover and cleaned out the lead dust.. I added high quality bearing grease to the gears and I also put a little on the hammer and sear.. it made the trigger pull a lot better but I think it would benefit to polish the hammer too..
Mark
Mine has horrible aim, about a 1yard spread at 100 yards. Then again the hammer spring turns every time you shoot. I haven't looked at the rifle since last year but I will do a deep dive on the rifle once I get the Blitz BP to compare it with.
How did you get to the gears is that all accesable when you get to the hammer spring?, What would be the best grease for that stuff I have white lithium grease, fp10, ballistol, 3 in 1 oil should I buy another greas for this job I want my blitz running smooth an fast cant wait to get it im set on 25 cal them coyotes going down. Im trying to record footage of that with my one leaf would be fun full auto 41 round mag 25 cal.
Here is a picture from the exploded view document.
To get to the rifle cycling gear you need to remove part 4972, you just remove the 5 2990 screws, exploded view shows that it's 4 but look at picture below).
Once removed you will see parts 2983-2988, these parts together with the rod that goes next to the barrel is what cycles the rifle.
If I remember correctly the rod is connected to 2987, when it is pushed backwards the gear 2985 rotates and pushes 2983 in the opposite direction which pushes the bolt handle backwards cycling a new round in the chamber.
You can view the exploded view here: https://hatsanairgunsusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Blitz-Exploded-View.pdf
Untitled.png


In the picture below you can see the side panel I'm talking about. To the right of the Hatsan logo you can see the bolt that 2984 is placed on.
It's a very simple mechanic and once you see it you will understand everything I've described, pull back the charging handle and you will see it working.
hatsan-blitz-full-auto-7-62mm_32501_2.jpg


Im trying to record footage of that with my one leaf would be fun full auto 41 round mag 25 cal.
Sounds cool in concept but horrible in execution. I have tried it and it sucks balls, your video will look something like this but imagine the scope cam being attached to the gun...
 
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How did you get to the gears is that all accesable when you get to the hammer spring?, What would be the best grease for that stuff I have white lithium grease, fp10, ballistol, 3 in 1 oil should I buy another greas for this job I want my blitz running smooth an fast cant wait to get it im set on 25 cal them coyotes going down. Im trying to record footage of that with my one leaf would be fun full auto 41 round mag 25 cal.
all you have to do to get to the gear and where it gets contaminated with lead dust is remove the side cover.. I think it was 4-5 screws.. I wiped mine clean and used a thin high temperature wheel bearing grease from my shop..
to grease the hammer and sear it's one screw underneath to remove the stock and then two pins hold in the trigger group.. one is a little bit harder because it is also a spring loaded pivot point but it only moves about half a hole to the side.. not too difficult.
Mark
 
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Only way I know of is by using thicker grease on the gears. The factory grease in mine was some sort of white paste, when I replaced it with gun out it made the whole mechanism a lot smoother and in turn faster.

Mine has horrible aim, about a 1yard spread at 100 yards. Then again the hammer spring turns every time you shoot. I haven't looked at the rifle since last year but I will do a deep dive on the rifle once I get the Blitz BP to compare it with.

Here is a picture from the exploded view document.
To get to the rifle cycling gear you need to remove part 4972, you just remove the 5 2990 screws, exploded view shows that it's 4 but look at picture below).
Once removed you will see parts 2983-2988, these parts together with the rod that goes next to the barrel is what cycles the rifle.
If I remember correctly the rod is connected to 2987, when it is pushed backwards the gear 2985 rotates and pushes 2983 in the opposite direction which pushes the bolt handle backwards cycling a new round in the chamber.
You can view the exploded view here: https://hatsanairgunsusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Blitz-Exploded-View.pdf
View attachment 365496

In the picture below you can see the side panel I'm talking about. To the right of the Hatsan logo you can see the bolt that 2984 is placed on.
It's a very simple mechanic and once you see it you will understand everything I've described, pull back the charging handle and you will see it working.
View attachment 365500


Sounds cool in concept but horrible in execution. I have tried it and it sucks balls, your video will look something like this but imagine the scope cam being attached to the gun...
just a suggestion, might tighten up your group of you have not cleaned the barrel.. I have good luck with the cheap Walmart crossman premier round noze..
I think I might try your idea of thicker grease next time I clean it.. I put lightweight high temperature bearing grease, but I think I also have some heavy viscosity bearing grease..
just wondering if there's any adjustments to cycle speed with hammer spring and the spring in the front end of the barrel..
I hadn't heard anything about a bull pup blitz.. be great to see pictures of it, does it come with open sights?
Mark
 
just a suggestion, might tighten up your group of you have not cleaned the barrel.. I have good luck with the cheap Walmart crossman premier round noze..
I think I might try your idea of thicker grease next time I clean it.. I put lightweight high temperature bearing grease, but I think I also have some heavy viscosity bearing grease..
just wondering if there's any adjustments to cycle speed with hammer spring and the spring in the front end of the barrel..
I hadn't heard anything about a bull pup blitz.. be great to see pictures of it, does it come with open sights?
Mark
Ive always been cleaning my barrels lubing my pellets I get about 2 inch groups at 115 yards with the crossman primier hollowpoints outta my avenger bullpup .22 spent like 500 crossmans tuning it in even going 1/32nd turn at a time on the hammer spring trying to get it as precise as possible if I notice shots start opening up a bit/flyers I clean barrel usually around 500-700 shots or so. Im at 1900 psi and 2 turns in on hammer very happy with groups. Will get avenger rifle version in 22 for them alone an tune em in first time I gotta pull like 50 patches thru with my patchworm but its worth it once I tune it it lazer cheap plinking.
 
just a suggestion, might tighten up your group of you have not cleaned the barrel.. I have good luck with the cheap Walmart crossman premier round noze..
I think I might try your idea of thicker grease next time I clean it.. I put lightweight high temperature bearing grease, but I think I also have some heavy viscosity bearing grease..
just wondering if there's any adjustments to cycle speed with hammer spring and the spring in the front end of the barrel..
I hadn't heard anything about a bull pup blitz.. be great to see pictures of it, does it come with open sights?
Mark
22 is safe to shoot full auto up in the air at the squirrels in my yard high up in the evergreens but 25 hunting wise gotta worry more about pass thru an where it drops in suburb area pesting, I dont know as terminal velocity is higher could crack a windshield or leave a dent if it flied up 300 yards an comes down at like 140 fps. I wanna get both blitz 22 and 25 but each one runs close to $1000 Im buying one at once waiting for sale on the 22.
 
Ive always been cleaning my barrels lubing my pellets I get about 2 inch groups at 115 yards with the crossman primier hollowpoints outta my avenger bullpup .22 spent like 500 crossmans tuning it in even going 1/32nd turn at a time on the hammer spring trying to get it as precise as possible if I notice shots start opening up a bit/flyers I clean barrel usually around 500-700 shots or so. Im at 1900 psi and 2 turns in on hammer very happy with groups. Will get avenger rifle version in 22 for them alone an tune em in first time I gotta pull like 50 patches thru with my patchworm but its worth it once I tune it it lazer cheap plinking.
i have the American tactical liberty nova, 22 caliber, it's the pre avenger.. only one gauge but has the hi low port like the avenger x.. I can freehand rest on a post and get 2" grouping at 160 yards but if I go even just 10 yards more it opens up to over 24" and most completely missed the target.
Mark
 
22 is safe to shoot full auto up in the air at the squirrels in my yard high up in the evergreens but 25 hunting wise gotta worry more about pass thru an where it drops in suburb area pesting, I dont know as terminal velocity is higher could crack a windshield or leave a dent if it flied up 300 yards an comes down at like 140 fps. I wanna get both blitz 22 and 25 but each one runs close to $1000 Im buying one at once waiting for sale on the 22.
I only got the 22.. wanted to get the gauntlet 30 but I only use open sights and didn't want a project.. adding open sights..
wish the avenger X would come in 30, bottle and open sights. I never shot a 25.. but I was wanting a big bore and while 30 is a very small big bore it seems like the gauntlet 30 is about the only one that has a decent number of shots.. I always want to see where the lead stops, no matter caliber.. even though I live in the woods, who knows what animal or person is enjoying a walk, I've been shot at years ago from accidentally getting too close to a drug grow, and another time riding horses and accidentally going past poacher, I didn't get hurt but I wouldn't wish to even scare someone, let alone hurt anything.. safety!!
Mark
Mark
 
i have the American tactical liberty nova, 22 caliber, it's the pre avenger.. only one gauge but has the hi low port like the avenger x.. I can freehand rest on a post and get 2" grouping at 160 yards but if I go even just 10 yards more it opens up to over 24" and most completely missed the target.
Mark
anyone have a idea? I just figured it was the maximum range for the gun, 22 pellets and probably around 900 fps although I don't have a chronograph.. always liked watching videos of the airforce 50 caliber airguns shooting 1000 yards..
Mark
 
i have the American tactical liberty nova, 22 caliber, it's the pre avenger.. only one gauge but has the hi low port like the avenger x.. I can freehand rest on a post and get 2" grouping at 160 yards but if I go even just 10 yards more it opens up to over 24" and most completely missed the target.
Mark
thought about trying lead rounds.. maybe they won't spread? just arch?? but I have not tried them.. I'd try slugs but I don't know what diameter to order for the 22 and I don't want a box of ammo that doesn't fit.. I guess I need to slug the barrel with a pellet and then mic it?
Mark