does this barrel crown look ok to you? ;)

I think you are on the right train of thought with sending it back. The transactional expectation is that you purchased an item with the expectation of receiving it in good working order. You shouldn't have to spend money or additional effort on a new item that is marketed to work well out of the box.

The issue becomes what if you cut/crown/modify the barrel and it doesn't turn out the way you expected. Once you modify it now you are stuck and can't return it. Unfortunately I understand the issue too closely - I buy something and want to use it immediately and then identify a problem. I don't want to have to wait for a replacement or go through the trouble to repackage and ship it back and then start waiting (who knows how long it will truly take).

Now if I modified it and have an issue with the same part (not the crown end but an issue on the pellet chamber side) and send it in for warranty work the vendor usually states because it is modified that the warranty is no longer valid. Just my thought on the matter. Good luck either way.


-PJ
 
You will probably be getting the next one they ship you crowned also. So go make friends with a machinist. Still trying to figure out why you would want that gun to shoot slugs in a barn as an option.


well,i have my impact m3 .25 running about 60fpe

but its much too powerful for inside shots and shots where it will blow through the birds and then through the roof.

im adamant about keeping the property owner happy with me,
so i dont like to damage any of the buildings.

this .177 was bought just for those situations.

and as for why i want to use slugs,
because i love the sound they make when they hit :)
 
Oh, so you were thinking about trying to get a really slow .177 slug to work in a barn. Probably better off with an 9-10gr pellet if you want to keep the barn owner happy. I was shooting little slugs out of my Lelya.177 for a while and they ricochet just like their big brothers. Do you have a game plan on how to flatten the curve once your barrel is cleaned up? With a .177 and the right hammer spring, you might have a real nice spot in the curve to work with for plenty of shots out of that small tube. What ever became of your P15 that you loved? I still have mine. It’s one of my night pest guns right now.
 
Oh, so you were thinking about trying to get a really slow .177 slug to work in a barn. Probably better off with an 9-10gr pellet if you want to keep the barn owner happy. I was shooting little slugs out of my Lelya.177 for a while and they ricochet just like their big brothers. Do you have a game plan on how to flatten the curve once your barrel is cleaned up? With a .177 and the right hammer spring, you might have a real nice spot in the curve to work with for plenty of shots out of that small tube. What ever became of your P15 that you loved? I still have mine. It’s one of my night pest guns right now.


with about a coil and a half clipped off the stock hammer spring i had the curve decent with the 12 5gn nielsens,
2 mags (24 shots) with only a 20fps spread
960-980-960

that p15 has long ago been sold,
now my impact is my first love lol
 
Thats looking more than a bit rough, but i would be more concerned with what looks like damage to the actual rifling down past that crown.

The key with any crowning work is to ensure the crown is even all the way around (concentric) …much more important than any tiny imperfection you may be chasing. This is why the brass screw in a drill idea is quite good….it perfectly follows the concentricity of the original bore.
One thing i noticed when doing such work on a lathe (imagining it would be much better) is the tool tends to machine perfectly centred to the lathe chuck and the drill chuck in the Tailstock….not centred to the bore, especially if the end of the bore is not perfectly concentric to the outer diameter of the barrel…and will cut eccentric….
Brownhills make a nice brass crowning tool for your hand drill.
 
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Thats looking more than a bit rough, but i would be more concerned with what looks like damage to the actual rifling down past that crown.

The key with any crowning work is to ensure the crown is even all the way around (concentric) …much more important than any tiny imperfection you may be chasing. This is why the brass screw in a drill idea is quite good….it perfectly follows the concentricity of the original bore.
One thing i noticed when doing such work on a lathe (imagining it would be much better) is the tool tends to machine perfectly centred to the lathe chuck and the drill chuck in the Tailstock….not centred to the bore, especially if the end of the bore is not perfectly concentric to the outer diameter of the barrel…and will cut eccentric….
Brownhills make a nice brass crowning tool for your hand drill.


i had thought about the brass screw,
as it has worked for me many times in the past,
but theres not much wiggle room in there.

but on a better note,
currently the barrel is on its way to jason (nervoustrig) to voodoo it into shape lol

which makes me feel better than just playing the barrel lottery again lol

and who knows,
the replacement might have been worse,
at least this one does not leak,
already has the lighter trigger spring i installed,
and the sear is set so its a nice crisp break.

(literally took less than 5 min to install the spring and adjust the sear)

took the trigger from absolute garbage,
to a nice light first stage with a clean 2nd stage break.