Dragonfly heads up!

You know, I'm just thinking out loud here, but the mechanism is such an improvement over the old type that it would easily be worth twice the price if it was built to those tolerances. There might be some money in making replacement parts and offering a tuning service. I don't have those skills but some have made money rebuilding and "supercharging" Sheridans (for example). It's a fine little rifle as is and Air Venturi service is pretty sharp.

Mine has been shooting pellet on pellet, well penny sized groups, at forty yards on a calm day. The trick is to get a shooting rythm going so that the pumping always takes the same amount of time and the shot follows that at a consistent interval. There are lots of ways to achieve that. It is important information to the hunter because we know there is a cool down after pumping. As I've mentioned elsewhere I think 12 pumps is probably what a 15 pump charge cools down too after a few minutes of rest. It then seems to be constant if the gun is holding pressure, even the next day.
 
You know, I'm just thinking out loud here, but the mechanism is such an improvement over the old type that it would easily be worth twice the price if it was built to those tolerances. There might be some money in making replacement parts and offering a tuning service. I don't have those skills but some have made money rebuilding and "supercharging" Sheridans (for example). It's a fine little rifle as is and Air Venturi service is pretty sharp.

Mine has been shooting pellet on pellet, well penny sized groups, at forty yards on a calm day. The trick is to get a shooting rythm going so that the pumping always takes the same amount of time and the shot follows that at a consistent interval. There are lots of ways to achieve that. It is important information to the hunter because we know there is a cool down after pumping. As I've mentioned elsewhere I think 12 pumps is probably what a 15 pump charge cools down too after a few minutes of rest. It then seems to be constant if the gun is holding pressure, even the next day.
I've been pumping mine max. Actually been waiting for some thing on electronic devices to update so I broke out the cleaning gear and cleaned the barrel. Will have to see if that helps her(she did fine right out of the box**I always test before I clean bc I've had slingers fail under 10 shots or so. So cleaning g it is after I make sure she functions normally. Barrel is alot shinier inside🤷‍♂️😅
 
This morning while testing moderators this happened. The part that flew off was under considerable stress as I was at the bottom of a pumping stroke. It left the vicinity at low Mach number. I'm glad it didn't hit me in the eye.
View attachment 367725
There was zero warning.
you are lucky. that's not good :eek: I don't want to run with the big dogs. I just want to set on the porch an bark 😃
 
OS
Go to here:
post# 324, is where I start documenting the process of what I did.

You have 2 limiting factors, which ever comes first,
1. Hitting the valve head,
2. Blocking the air intake hole in the pressure tube
with the pump rod head "O" ring.

If you can't see the end of the alum rod head go past the air vent hole,
you have to shorten the head distance,
if you don't hit the valve head end first.

Pay VERY close attention to the overall length of the pump rod distance,
or you'll be in trouble, the leverage of this pump arm system is very easy to go over board and you bend/break pins etc.

Measure the end of the pump handle to the pressure tube,
before the cam over spot, use the same measuring spot when adjusting the pump rod head etc.

It helps to remove the pump rod head "O" when setting the total overall distance.
HTH's,
 
I bought some extras... These are very strong...

pins.jpg
 
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HPP
Did you have to relieve the wood inside the forearm to fit?
Just a bit-I used a razor-knife. I also put some bronze washers in there to take up the slop.
BTW, the rear sight included in the parts kit from P.A. makes a killer front barrel band with a little grinding… No more loose, wobbly front plastic sight/ barrel holder! I think it was causing poi shift & occasional flyer’s. Will test & find out tomorrow…
 
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Hpp
Have you adjusted the pump rod head out to the max length
and NOT hit the valve head?
I’ve enlarged the transfer port, valve, and barrel. Also adjusted the pump head length too. Hammer spring changes didn’t show any gains, but the bolt pulls back much easier.
Overall, the gun has gained about 100fps and I’m happy.
 
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HPP
Thanks,

I guess I'll order a couple of those shoulder bolts, I hate ordering from M&C as their shipping rates kill ya.............on small orders,

Did you standardize the hole diameters on all 3 parts?
Find the largest hole size then ream the other parts the same Dia etc.

I found quite a bit of difference in all these pump rod and attachment arms and points, over .030" difference, which creates lots of play/noise when pumping etc.

I am working on a way to mill dovetails into the front of a 4"+ 1 pc,
11mm/Weaver standard base, that will fit the rear sight base and at the same time fit the top dovetails of the action, then will add another 3" = section to the rear half of the action, then I can mount a normal sized scope on the extended front section and still use the rear section for the rear scope ring.

There is .060" to .075" height difference between the front action dovetail and the rear sight dovetail in OEM configuration.
 
I’ve enlarged the transfer port, valve, and barrel. Also adjusted the pump head length too. Hammer spring changes didn’t show any gains, but the bolt pulls back much easier.
Overall, the gun has gained about 100fps and I’m happy.
Thanks Hpp
The biggest gains I have found so far is making a new top seal valve and having the nose of this seal fit .005" under the diameter, (I reamed a straight hole dia) and full length just level with the front of the valve head, with a .145 dia, for all hole sizes, except the bbl, which is .156"

Changed to a 11/12# flat wire hammer spring (had open up the spring tunnel hole .010" to fit the flat wire spring).

Adjust the pump head with .005" clearance from the valve head.
HTH's
 
Thanks Hpp
The biggest gains I have found so far is making a new top seal valve and having the nose of this seal fit .005" under the diameter, (I reamed a straight hole dia) and full length just level with the front of the valve head, with a .145 dia, for all hole sizes, except the bbl, which is .156"

Changed to a 11/12# flat wire hammer spring (had open up the spring tunnel hole .010" to fit the flat wire spring).

Adjust the pump head with .005" clearance from the valve head.
HTH's
I could not oversize the linkage holes to install a bigger pivot pin; the center-most linkage rod pin-hole was drilled so off-center that it’s super thin on that one side. And the other end is slotted for some reason. I think some smart guys wanted to see how loud they could make a pumper. Clack-Clack!
The valve is staying stock; I’m a mechanic, not a machinist:)
 
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Im a Lefty too & broke 2 pins so far- but that's not it. The first pin broke because I used silicone oil in the pump tube and it got really hard to pump. I replaced it with a stainless bolt from work that was not strong enough, and it eventually broke too. I did some research, and finally found a stronger option(see my posts above). You can see in your linkage pics that oversizing for a bigger pivot pin/shoulder bolt is not an option with the hole location on the stock linkage arms. Need some aftermarket, stronger, quieter linkages....
 
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