Dumb Ass Question

What is FPE? What do I need to measure it? How do I increase it? How much do I need?
I am shooting an HW97, .22 with a 14.3 pellet. I’m sighted in at 40 yards and have a group of about 1.5 inches. My one goal is to kill pests, mainly ground squirrels. It seems the gun is less accurate on a sled than when I use a bag. Or maybe I’m the one less accurate.
Another question. I may have to move the scope as it appears it’s to far from my eye. Will I need to resight it in if I do this?
Thx for the advice.
1.5 at 40 isnt that bad with a springer. there hard to shoot consistany groups & one needs to learn what it wants & then repeat it everytime if possible. If you didn't mount that scope do some research & remount it correctly. Scopes & springers don't like each ..so test the scope to for proper function.
 
1.5 at 40 isnt that bad with a springer. there hard to shoot consistany groups & one needs to learn what it wants & then repeat it everytime if possible. If you didn't mount that scope do some research & remount it correctly. Scopes & springers don't like each ..so test the scope to for proper function.
1.5 @ 40 is actually pretty good with most springers, but with an HW97 I'd be disappointed.
 
What is FPE? What do I need to measure it? How do I increase it? How much do I need?
I am shooting an HW97, .22 with a 14.3 pellet. I’m sighted in at 40 yards and have a group of about 1.5 inches. My one goal is to kill pests, mainly ground squirrels. It seems the gun is less accurate on a sled than when I use a bag. Or maybe I’m the one less accurate.
Another question. I may have to move the scope as it appears it’s to far from my eye. Will I need to resight it in if I do this?
Thx for the advice.
I read through the answers, I think you need this, If you shoot a 16gr pellet at 850fps you get 25FPE. Go faster more FPE, go heavier at the same speed, more FPE. (numbers are just for example) Numbers are at the muzzle. As the distance increases the FPE drops (the speed drops). As some have said there are ballistic calculators that do the math for you. The scope/bag/sled thing, firstly get the scope set so it's comfortable and you can close your eyes, put your cheek on the gun, an open your eyes and the scope should be perfect every time. THEN sight it in. I you have a 2nd focus plane scope you should be good to go, if you have a FFP, First Focal Plane, you'll have parallax, which means you have to focus the scope for a given distance, if you look through the scope and your aim point doesn't move when you move your head you are properly focused on the Parallax. You have to get your Diopter focused perfectly on the reticle, then the parallax will fall into place. If the Parallax is off so will your shots, they'll be all over the place.
 
I read through the answers, I think you need this, If you shoot a 16gr pellet at 850fps you get 25FPE. Go faster more FPE, go heavier at the same speed, more FPE. (numbers are just for example) Numbers are at the muzzle. As the distance increases the FPE drops (the speed drops). As some have said there are ballistic calculators that do the math for you. The scope/bag/sled thing, firstly get the scope set so it's comfortable and you can close your eyes, put your cheek on the gun, an open your eyes and the scope should be perfect every time. THEN sight it in. I you have a 2nd focus plane scope you should be good to go, if you have a FFP, First Focal Plane, you'll have parallax, which means you have to focus the scope for a given distance, if you look through the scope and your aim point doesn't move when you move your head you are properly focused on the Parallax. You have to get your Diopter focused perfectly on the reticle, then the parallax will fall into place. If the Parallax is off so will your shots, they'll be all over the place.
Are you suggesting that parallax error only affects a first focal plane scope? I was following along until that part..
 
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Most of the answers concentrated on FPE. As one person noted, a 1.5” group at 40 yards with an HW97 is disappointing”.
You are not holding the rifle properly. Do a YouTube search for air rifle artillery hold. It’s a method used specifically for springer airguns. Also, have you tried a variety of pellet weights and designs? I know it can get pricey and time consuming but every gun has its preferred pellet.
 
sightin is most critical for pesting, you really need a ballistics app to quickly find the ideal and so you can graphically see your holdovers and max reasonable distance .. typically ideal sight in on a pellet gun for pesting will be alot closer, 15-21 yds, depending on velocity and scope height ... the goal is to be able to aim dead on something and hit it very quickly between the longest points, say 12-45 yds with no fudging and guesswork in the heat of battle .. your killrate will go way up ..
 
Are you suggesting that parallax error only affects a first focal plane scope? I was following along until that part..
Yes, unless of course you have a 2nd with parallax. Then it needs the fine focus the parallax adjustment allows. I think I may have a few of those scopes on my PewPew's, been a long since they were out so memory fades.
 
Mixing up grains and grams can REALY foul a fellow up. As already said learn the terms and formula and it is useful. Just don't dwell on that entirely. Precision in marksmanship is one of the key elements. You won't have the immense number of foot pounds in most airgunning situations. Be Well Brothers, Bandito.
Joules and FPE also confound me at times. Even when you're familiar with both measurements when you start swapping them around it gets confusing.
 
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ADHD here 24/7. Mixing the terms and going from inch to metric is a disaster. For me it is work a formula one way or the other. I just use ft/ lb basically. But what does it matter? Once I know which pellet flies true in my gun with current conditions then all that is left is learning the trajectory and keep your dope card on the gun. Be Well Brothers, Bandito.