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EBR Target Challenge

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Tommy, what is the max speed you can get with the current reg setting? I.e., at what point does the speed stop increasing? That would be your Plateau.
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I need to check next time I’m out at the range. I may be at it right now, but until I try to turn it up a bit more, I can’t be sure about exactly when the speed is at the plateau. I have to believe I’m real close. I may also text Martin today. Tx...Tom 
 
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Tommy... the wife and I were both struggling with fliers the last 3 days... really difficult to break 220 with several 6s and/or 7s. Finally tried a different batch and I immediately shot a 227 and she shot a 231 and 234 back to back. Had the same thing about a month ago while testing some new gear. 2" + groups... REALLY trying at 100 went to sub 1" on the first try.

I've looked and looked at them and can't identify what's different. There's some discussion of THAT in another thread in the last couple of days .

Bob
 
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Tommy... the wife and I were both struggling with fliers the last 3 days... really difficult to break 220 with several 6s and/or 7s. Finally tried a different batch and I immediately shot a 227 and she shot a 231 and 234 back to back. Had the same thing about a month ago while testing some new gear. 2" + groups... REALLY trying at 100 went to sub 1" on the first try.

I've looked and looked at them and can't identify what's different. There's some discussion of THAT in another thread in the last couple of days .

Bob
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Bob,

Yeah, I realize any targets with 6's or 7's make it almost impossible to break 220. Which, is why I am so focused on stopping this sloppy shooting.

Same here, as it relates to closely examining the RD pellets. I shoot single shot all the time, and I'll be damned if I can see a deformed pellet when I do look closely. I am going to try the recent suggestions from Donne and Mike about tweaking the RAW HST up/down a bit to try other velocities. I'm pretty close to the plateau at 945 average FPS now, but I need to go a bit higher until I see the velocity stays the same or comes down slightly, then back off 15 FPS. If that doesn't work, I will try going down to the 870-890 FPS range with the RAW. 

Safari - AoA has my RW .25 Safari now ( Steve B ), and they are taking a close look at my barrel and gun for my accuracy concerns. In the meantime, I'm giving very serious thought to swapping it out for a .22 approved ART barrel and probe, for the RD pellet and slugs. 

This air gun hobby is like being at Las Vegas after I just winning $2 Grand at the Black Jack table. You get this false sense of security thinking it's not my money, so I'll gamble and try other things. It's all good, great fun!
 
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It DOES stay interesting....

Not trying to disagree with anyone, but EVERYTHING I've shot that was capable of sending the RD's at 980 shot increasingly better as they got near that.

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I realize this might be a silly question; but...does anyone know which lots of RDs shoot very well? Is it truly trial and error for every single tin? Or, is there a specific lot(s) that are better than others?

As I ask this question, I can only imagine people not telling us the answer to the question I am asking, so there is no shortage of the really good lots.




 
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Unfortunately 99% of us don’t receive pellets in sleeves or cases. Even if we order 20 tins they come packaged not in the sleeve so they can be shipped as Pyramyd Air does protected in the foam shipping pieces. None of the tins made in the past two years have lot numbers... 

Also, what makes one “lot” better than the next? Obviously it can’t be measured or seen, but what is it? It must be some tangible quality if it affects performance. And since it’s not head size or weight, what is it?
 
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Mike it’s something I’ve given a lot of thought and head scratching too. One thing I think is. They make thousands or tens of thousands of those every day they have to have multiple dies stamping them all at once then they all mix together from different die stamps. As well as the dies wear out and they have to replace them. Which means one new die it may be right next to an old die but the pellets from each one are going in to the same tin . I think that’s why they weigh different and shoot different. Among other things. 
 
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I follow your line of thinking...I’ve spent so much time trying to figure it out myself. It’s not anything I can measure or visually see, that’s for sure. 


To preserve my sanity...I no longer worry over it. I can honestly say my enjoyment of shooting has immensely increased now that I don’t fuss over pellets anymore. If you buy from someplace like Pyramyd...buy at least 20 tins. If they are no good, it’s easy to sell them at a slightly reduced price. If they are good, you have at least a fair supply.


Mike 
 
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They don’t mix dies at JSB. All the pellets from a single machine are packaged together.

Die 13 177 monsters have been very good pellets for 5 years. Sometimes they do screw up their labeling. Retailers remove the die stickers from the tins because they don’t want people calling in bothering them for specific die numbers all the time.


Mike 
 
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As far as I know they all leave the Jsb factory with labels. I’ve never had any without. I import them directly from someone who drives and picks them up from the factory. Haven’t bought any for a while but this is how they come Sleeves of 10 tins
1596106826_4091553155f22a84a102269.48396173.jpeg
1596106827_17070036525f22a84b043d08.90731179.jpeg

 
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Re: RD Pellets and lots - Sounds like it’s “luck of the draw,” as to what you get. However, there are so many good scores posted with Using them just in this thread, it does speak to the overall quality of the redesigns. Not discounting or minimizing shooting skill at all, just trying to keep it in perspective with all of the other factors and variables that go into shooting pellets accurately. 
 
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I would venture a guess that variation in alloy has a great deal to with it. JSB buys virgin lead and then add tin and "other metal alloys" to it but don't disclose what "other metal alloys" are nor the percentage of each. I have cast 100's of thousands of my own bullets over the past 40 years and I can tell you the alloy and hardness of the alloy DO make a difference in the performance of PB bullets. However, as Mike T said he doesn't sweat it because that factor is totally out of our control.



You can measure the lead hardness of your pellets and that will give you a tangible metric that you can chart from tin to tin if you are so inclined?
 
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