I want to install a bipod on my EDgun R3M standard. but I'd like to know what people have done out there. I'm debating to go to a gunsmith or do it myself.
EDgun Bipod picitinny rail recommendation...
- Thread starter ajohnny88
- Start date
do it your self , just drill 2 holes get your self a short rail and mount it , go to a local hardware store and get some fasteners like this and screw it together it is easy ,
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If you don’t know how to then pay a gunsmith $40.00 to do it.
You use T nuts. You measure & center then drill where line runs down center of countersunk holes in rail.
Personally I have an EDgun Supermagnum .25 & am bedding the stock do to I can feel the slightest bit of sloppy play and it’s right in front of trigger where that thicker channel is cut out for sides. I’ll be using Devcon 10110 although expensive it is easy to work with & never breaks down. You just can’t bed the trigger linkage area. Obviously. So much gets lost in words or phone without sight. Anyway, I asked dealer if bedding foreshock that reservoir sits in would hurt/change POI as tube flexes through fills & shooting down. Was told no. I can feel the free float there also. Point is my single shot Supermagnum will shoot best with a consistent hold & a bipod is more consistent than human hands. Usually.
I don’t know what rail you have. Pic, M-loc, etc. seems guys want tacticool as a simple Harris on stud don’t seem to cut it. They all want Atlas 45* front load & that IS an advantage so pick a spot you normally shoot holding it. A spot you know it’s accurate at. You or Smith. Mark it with chalk X & say, I want pressure here. If you have a router you can counter sink the rail. You can NEATLY apply clear epoxy for extra strength as folding & deploying can loosen rail over time. Not ever if counter sunk 1/8” & epoxied in with proper head bolts & T nuts. I’ll bed around it inside of stock as I have wood & wood can crack. You have what looks like synthetic. Only differences is weight, strength, and yours will kind of melt when routered or drilled if not done right. Just be sure. Measure twice cut once, use sharp bits.
I’m also adding melted lead in my forestocks internal cut outs as believe it or not even 34.95 JSB have recoil let alone 30-60 grain slugs when they start moving.
You use T nuts. You measure & center then drill where line runs down center of countersunk holes in rail.
Personally I have an EDgun Supermagnum .25 & am bedding the stock do to I can feel the slightest bit of sloppy play and it’s right in front of trigger where that thicker channel is cut out for sides. I’ll be using Devcon 10110 although expensive it is easy to work with & never breaks down. You just can’t bed the trigger linkage area. Obviously. So much gets lost in words or phone without sight. Anyway, I asked dealer if bedding foreshock that reservoir sits in would hurt/change POI as tube flexes through fills & shooting down. Was told no. I can feel the free float there also. Point is my single shot Supermagnum will shoot best with a consistent hold & a bipod is more consistent than human hands. Usually.
I don’t know what rail you have. Pic, M-loc, etc. seems guys want tacticool as a simple Harris on stud don’t seem to cut it. They all want Atlas 45* front load & that IS an advantage so pick a spot you normally shoot holding it. A spot you know it’s accurate at. You or Smith. Mark it with chalk X & say, I want pressure here. If you have a router you can counter sink the rail. You can NEATLY apply clear epoxy for extra strength as folding & deploying can loosen rail over time. Not ever if counter sunk 1/8” & epoxied in with proper head bolts & T nuts. I’ll bed around it inside of stock as I have wood & wood can crack. You have what looks like synthetic. Only differences is weight, strength, and yours will kind of melt when routered or drilled if not done right. Just be sure. Measure twice cut once, use sharp bits.
I’m also adding melted lead in my forestocks internal cut outs as believe it or not even 34.95 JSB have recoil let alone 30-60 grain slugs when they start moving.
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do it your self , just drill 2 holes get your self a short rail and mount it , go to a local hardware store and get some fasteners like this and screw it together it is easy ,
Those are T nuts. The spikes get tapped into the inside of your stock to sit flush. The screws come up through rail & stock, then thread into those T nuts. Got it? See, they can’t ever twist. Use Vibratite or blue thread locker on threads also. A tiny bit of epoxy still helps & Id personally counter sink rail & epoxy in along with the nuts JW was kind enough to post. Thanks JW
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I can make a bottom tube clamp if you PM me the diameter (measured with a caliper). There must be at least 1mm gap between the air tube and barrel but I'm sure there is.
This will mount your bipod with no drilling and no marks on the gun.
This will mount your bipod with no drilling and no marks on the gun.
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wow thx guys and @heavy-impact ty sir for that offer. So I ordered a rail but i was thinking of using these to mount them , what u guys think, its a more invisible mount.
https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Threaded-Inserts-Installation/dp/B015CAPI54/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3/143-7013334-0772340?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015CAPI54&pd_rd_r=b3b6f8fe-8278-11e9-8740-41568e48106d&pd_rd_w=zIHRA&pd_rd_wg=cQBOt&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=QMH2N3K0HSG680AFXAYT&psc=1&refRID=QMH2N3K0HSG680AFXAYT
https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Threaded-Inserts-Installation/dp/B015CAPI54/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3/143-7013334-0772340?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015CAPI54&pd_rd_r=b3b6f8fe-8278-11e9-8740-41568e48106d&pd_rd_w=zIHRA&pd_rd_wg=cQBOt&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=QMH2N3K0HSG680AFXAYT&psc=1&refRID=QMH2N3K0HSG680AFXAYT
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https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/wts-edgun-r3m-standard-25-laminated-stock-offset-moderator/
this link has a pic of a R3M with a pic rail installed. Looks like he used ordinary wood screws as I don't see anything through the cut-outs.
Those zloc threaded inserts might work, but I'd be worried they'd have the potential to crack the stock. 1/2" would probably be too deep. The stock only looks about that thick at the point you want the pic rail.
this link has a pic of a R3M with a pic rail installed. Looks like he used ordinary wood screws as I don't see anything through the cut-outs.
Those zloc threaded inserts might work, but I'd be worried they'd have the potential to crack the stock. 1/2" would probably be too deep. The stock only looks about that thick at the point you want the pic rail.
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I totally agree with you, thats why I havent ordered them yet. I know the one i ordered comes with wood screws, but i figured it seems more professional to posibblt epoxy these Z-Lok in . Just figured thats how a real gunsmith might do it. So I planned to grind the .5" down with a grinder or use thinner screws and use a stock .375 like in the pic.
Picatinny Rail I ordered:
https://utahairguns.com/picatinny-rail-install-kit/
I kinda see screwing it straight into the stock is like using dentures with just glue as opposed to getting in fake teeth anchored in your gums...
Picatinny Rail I ordered:
https://utahairguns.com/picatinny-rail-install-kit/
I kinda see screwing it straight into the stock is like using dentures with just glue as opposed to getting in fake teeth anchored in your gums...
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