Yes, exactly. Significantly faster first shot. Interestingly enough, my REPR gun does not display such behavior, next to no creep.
Oh well, I'll skip the Huma then.
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EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2
- Thread starter Navnesen
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Yes, exactly. Significantly faster first shot. Interestingly enough, my REPR gun does not display such behavior, next to no creep.
Oh well, I'll skip the Huma then.
What is "reg creep"? My reg is set at about 165ish right now when i first fill up that first shot is reading close to 20bar over my setting. Is this the reg creep you're speaking of?
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Does this mean anything as far as my reg being in the process of failing or is this just to be expected from the repr reg? It's not always that big of a spread, but the first shot it always a little hotter than the rest.
Just went and checked my reg after filling it last night and putting it away it says 204
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Get a 2mm steel ball and form/burnish the reg seat. That's too mich creep. You may have a little debree in it that need to be cleaned or machine mark to compress witb the ball. Don't use the reg ball for the seating opreation or might damage it.Does this mean anything as far as my reg being in the process of failing or is this just to be expected from the repr reg? It's not always that big of a spread, but the first shot it always a little hotter than the rest.
Just went and checked my reg after filling it last night and putting it away it says 204
View attachment 357963
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I have the Repr and my L2 is a month old. I finally got around to putting a gauge on the reg to adjust my reg where I wanted it. My reg is set at about 165bar. I filled my tank to about 275 bar before I put it away when I woke up my reg gauge was reading at 205bar a couple hours later I checked again and it was up to 210bar so my REPR has serious creep issues going on. Someone said it may have some sort of debris in it? Not sure, but I wouldn't turn to the repr if you're looking to get away from creep issues.
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My other L2 with the REPR works flawlessly, with no creep to be seen. 165 to 210bar in a matter of hours few hours is definitely not normal. Could be in fact some debris in the regulator preventing the little ball (15) from forming proper seal with the plastic seal (5), or a leaky o-ring (11) around that plastic seal. Worst case scenario, it needs a new seal.
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I imagine someone has done a how-to video on disassembling regulators, cleaning and reassembling them? Any advice on a good video?
My regulators have a bit of creep, but not much. That said, I'd love to know what to look for when I take it out and disassemble.
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My regulators have a bit of creep, but not much. That said, I'd love to know what to look for when I take it out and disassemble.
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Is this too much moisture inside my plenum? Brand new gun from Edgun West. I just got it a few weeks ago, took a few shots from 200 to 100 bar, filled it back up to 250 bar, took a few more shots and then let it sit for a week. I have a Yong Heng with an external water n oil separator This one
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Generally speaking, you don't want any water in your gun. Your water separator isn't doing its job well-enough. It might just be a maintenance issue, but it might also not be up to the job. You might want to open it up to dry it out. You can also get rid of the parts you don't need (charcoal, etc), so that you can just have components that address moisture.
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So I ended up drying the plenum with a blue shop paper towel and reinstalled. I'll check out the water separator today and go from there.
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I wouldn't get rid of the charcoal. It would be better to insert a mechanical water separator to remove the bulk of the moisture so your molecular sieve/carbon filter can do it's job. Search Amazon for "30Mpa High Pressure Air Filter External Water Oil Separator Filtration for Air Compressor Air Pump" for an example.
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Yes it's a good idea to run a mechanical separator first, followed by the molecular sieve filter. The first stage will get rid of the bulk of the moisture, the molecular sieve is only supposed to catch the vapors that get through that. If you run your molecular sieve as the first and only stage, it will get saturated and lose effectiveness in no time. I bet this is what happened here.
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Perhaps I don't understand -- what does the charcoal filter do? I don't think it helps at all with PCP rifle air. IMO all you need to do is get rid of the humidity. Charcoal is more about catching weird gas exhausts that come out of your pump. Those by-and-large won't hurt your gun.
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I'm no expert however this is Ed's recommendation from the exploding Leshiy thread: "The best way to use dry clean air for breething from fire department or diver's compressors." They use charcoal after molecular sieve. Perhaps there is a reason why?
Also the desiccant after the molecular sieve in Yoda's filter is in the wrong place. Here's a brief read on the subject. Lot's of filtration information is available in the Tanks, Pumps, Compressors forum.
Also the desiccant after the molecular sieve in Yoda's filter is in the wrong place. Here's a brief read on the subject. Lot's of filtration information is available in the Tanks, Pumps, Compressors forum.
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