EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

The length is more than you'd like when you're shooting it or when you're packing it around?

My L2 is 22/250 & shooting around 24 FPE as I recall. I measured it but just don't remember. Have all the parts to tune it, add a bottle & shorten the length of pull. Just need the time.

As far as your other question, you can add a Striplin adapter to the factory shroud & screw on any 1/2 UNF adapter or even use the Behemoth or new QD DonnyFL moderators.
For me the length is in the wrong place, I wouldn’t mind the longer upper air tube but will go with overall shorter profile for the sake of compactness. I really like the Atomic XR as a compact lightweight thump gun and am trying to turn the Leshiy into a slightly harder hitting / semi version of the Atomic. Do you know how much longer the OEM shroud is past the barrel? I think the eagle vision adapter linked above might save an inch or two, but hard to find measurements (don’t even see the eagle vision dimensions). 0db is the thinnest moderator that I know of (hopefully someone can point out a thinner one) and there appears to be enough sacrificial metal to tuck everything in.
 
For me the length is in the wrong place, I wouldn’t mind the longer upper air tube but will go with overall shorter profile for the sake of compactness. I really like the Atomic XR as a compact lightweight thump gun and am trying to turn the Leshiy into a slightly harder hitting / semi version of the Atomic. Do you know how much longer the OEM shroud is past the barrel? I think the eagle vision adapter linked above might save an inch or two, but hard to find measurements (don’t even see the eagle vision dimensions). 0db is the thinnest moderator that I know of (hopefully someone can point out a thinner one) and there appears to be enough sacrificial metal to tuck everything in.

The OEM shroud extends ~100mm past the end of the 250mm barrel.

So you are trying to not use the OEM shroud & attach a moderator directly to the barrel?

You can do that with a Behemoth tri lug. Might email DonnyFL & see if they plan an M14 x 1.25 adapter for their new QD moderators. They may also have a shorter adapter than the one you linked.

I believe there are also a few moderators with M14 x 1.25 threads so no adapter required.
 
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The OEM shroud extends ~100mm past the end of the 250mm barrel.

So you are trying to not use the OEM shroud & attach a moderator directly to the barrel?

You can do that with a Behemoth tri lug. Might email DonnyFL & see if they plan an M14 x 1.25 adapter for their new QD moderators. They may also have a shorter adapter than the one you linked.

I believe there are also a few moderators with M14 x 1.25 threads so no adapter required.
Thank you for the measurement, that is more length savings than I would have guessed. Yup, I already have the 350mm handguard and if going to a 250mm LW barrel, I figure that I can reuse and save some length if the moderator can clear the ID of the hand guard (also have QD swivel on the top handguard rail). A 0db might need around .025’’ of material shaved in two spots to clear, although there appears to be a couple thinner moderaters like the Donny Tanto. They also appear to offer a custom adapter service on their website.

Good idea, will take a look to see if any M14 moderators will clear.
 
I toke my barrels to a CNC lathe shop, replaced the M14x1.25 with 1/2-20 and that can skip a lot of loose parts.

20231102_131419.jpg
 
OK, I have a 1st gen L2 250mm AP 30cal with original internal regulator with a single power jet (2nd is plugged) that was most likely manually bored by Edgun. Recently upgraded to a 350mm 30 call AP barrel and now have the standard power jet kit to experiment with. Running JSB Exact 51 grain at the moment. My guess I'm running reg pressure at around 145-150bar (1/4 turn from stock setting). Without having a chrono handy, I'm interested in what injector configuration would you folks recommend, based on any of your own tuning efforts. As a side note, I expect perhaps I'm running too long of a dwell for my power since I've gone through 2 pistons and indexers after about 10 or 12 tins. Just looking for good starting point for nozzle configuration before I eventually get a chrono.
 
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Looking for any Leshiy 2 owners who run the Immersive Optics 5x24 (pro or non-pro). I am not satisfied with the current setup (Optisan 3-12x) and have been considering the IO. My goal is to achieve the lowest functional height over bore. My question is, can the supplied tube mount / rail be milled flat and still work (okay getting new screws)? Additionally, anyone using a single ring on one of these?
 
Looking for any Leshiy 2 owners who run the Immersive Optics 5x24 (pro or non-pro). I am not satisfied with the current setup (Optisan 3-12x) and have been considering the IO. My goal is to achieve the lowest functional height over bore. My question is, can the supplied tube mount / rail be milled flat and still work (okay getting new screws)? Additionally, anyone using a single ring on one of these?

There is no Pro version of the 5x24.

Not sure what part you want to mill. Can you do a screen grab of a CGI & mark it with MS Paint or some other program?

I haven't bought one yet but I do plan to try a 5x30 Pro mounted with a lower single ring. With the oversized ocular end & 34mm tube, I'm not sure it would be the best choice for mounting as low as possible on an L2 given the higher sitting magazine area & R2D2 head.
 
There is no Pro version of the 5x24.

Not sure what part you want to mill. Can you do a screen grab of a CGI & mark it with MS Paint or some other program?

I haven't bought one yet but I do plan to try a 5x30 Pro mounted with a lower single ring. With the oversized ocular end & 34mm tube, I'm not sure it would be the best choice for mounting as low as possible on an L2 given the higher sitting magazine area & R2D2 head.
Ok yup, I was looking at the Pro 5x30 without noticing. Here is a link to YouTube where at 11:54 you can see the interaction between the two pieces that would necessitate milling flat (MOA adjustment system). I fully don't trust my measurements, but it looks like around 6mm from the top of pic rail to clear R2D2... perhaps someone more competent has official measurement.

Edit: to clarify I was interested in the 5x24 (30mm tube), unless someone has a setup for the pro 5x30 that clears and still provides needed eye relief.

 
Ok yup, I was looking at the Pro 5x30 without noticing. Here is a link to YouTube where at 11:54 you can see the interaction between the two pieces that would necessitate milling flat (MOA adjustment system). I fully don't trust my measurements, but it looks like around 6mm from the top of pic rail to clear R2D2... perhaps someone more competent has official measurement.

Edit: to clarify I was interested in the 5x24 (30mm tube), unless someone has a setup for the pro 5x30 that clears and still provides needed eye relief.


I'm still not sure I understand. If you mean milling the curved part of the MOA adjustable base to make it lower, then I'd just use a shorter ring. And yes, this has been done by others.

My best guess is that the 5x24 could be mounted lower but would likely hang over the back. The 5x30 Pro could be mounted further forward but it more likely to need a taller ring to clear the R2D2 head.

But everyone's eyes & statures are different so this is something you'll have to experiment with yourself.

If the concern about eye relief is to avoid the scope hanging over the back, keep in mind a single QD scope ring is always an option. Of course one doesn't want to have to remove their Leshiy from a pack & add a QD optic & possibly even a QD moderator every time a shot opportunity arises.

Lastly, is a cheek riser a solution to your scope mounting concerns? Or does your reasoning have more to do with scope over bore height?
 
I'm still not sure I understand. If you mean milling the curved part of the MOA adjustable base to make it lower, then I'd just use a shorter ring. And yes, this has been done by others.

My best guess is that the 5x24 could be mounted lower but would likely hang over the back. The 5x30 Pro could be mounted further forward but it more likely to need a taller ring to clear the R2D2 head.

But everyone's eyes & statures are different so this is something you'll have to experiment with yourself.

If the concern about eye relief is to avoid the scope hanging over the back, keep in mind a single QD scope ring is always an option. Of course one doesn't want to have to remove their Leshiy from a pack & add a QD optic & possibly even a QD moderator every time a shot opportunity arises.

Lastly, is a cheek riser a solution to your scope mounting concerns? Or does your reasoning have more to do with scope over bore height?
If going with 5x24 I planned to have it hang over the back and my main concern was clearing R2D2 while keeping it to bare minimal clearance for the sake of height over bore. Mocking everything up, eye relief should be fine with my style of shooting. I guess my real question is if letting the scope hang over the back what is the exact height in mm that is needed to clear from the top of the pic rail to the top of R2D2?
 
OK, I have a 1st gen L2 250mm AP 30cal with original internal regulator with a single power jet (2nd is plugged) that was most likely manually bored by Edgun. Recently upgraded to a 350mm 30 call AP barrel and now have the standard power jet kit to experiment with. Running JSB Exact 51 grain at the moment. My guess I'm running reg pressure at around 145-150bar (1/4 turn from stock setting). Without having a chrono handy, I'm interested in what injector configuration would you folks recommend, based on any of your own tuning efforts. As a side note, I expect perhaps I'm running too long of a dwell for my power since I've gone through 2 pistons and indexers after about 10 or 12 tins. Just looking for good starting point for nozzle configuration before I eventually get a chrono.
Bump. TLDR: to anyone with 350mm 30 cal L2, what is your power jets sizing/count configuration?