EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

[bigHUN]

First I thought not registering further shots, but the # was growing incrementally to 4 (this what I pre-set in radar to average 4 shots).
-2C and 85% humidity, I was outside maybe for five minutes only. Shooting into a frozen ground in front of me about 5-6- meters and the pops were loud

 

[Bernie7]

Anyone else have an almost impossible time ejecting the pin that holds the “locking pin” in place. This is friggin insane->
Put a drop of Kroil in here

and it even made its way through as evidenced by the wet spots surrounding the other side of the pin and the locking pin

I’m following the exact directions from edgunwest YT tutorial video but it’s taking a TREMENDOUS amount of force to even get the pin to move a tiny bit let alone actually eject it.

Any advice is appreciated!

Thank you!

 

[slickrock]

In the future I would like to see a Forward Plug, where I can tune the Dwell for projectile in separate air path from Indexing.
The indexing need let say minimum of 60 or 70 bars to operate, but lets put it in a ballpark of 80 and keep it there - regardless of a Reg.
Different barrel lengths or calibers and different weight projectiles need anywhere from 80 bars to 150-180 bars on the Reg.
As is right now if we raise or lower the Reg , a certain percentage of that same pressure is powering the Indexing. Higher the Reg the Indexing want to work faster, and opposite....
I am assuming that Edgun was tinkering about for a while and we may expect changes - if the business case justifies (of course)

Another aspect of this is the wear and tear on the indexing piston and gear. Using high reg pressure I feel puts undue stress on these parts and they wear out quicker. I use 61 grain slugs and take no prisoners. Mind you I have yet to tune my setup much. I have a chronometer on the way on the I've have jet kit but only one jet valve spring was include with the gun back with the first lot in December 2020. I expect when I get the optimum tune, it may improve piston, gear, spring wear as well.

 

[slickrock]

Anyone else have an almost impossible time ejecting the pin that holds the “locking pin” in place. This is friggin insane->
Put a drop of Kroil in here
View attachment 430346

and it even made its way through as evidenced by the wet spots surrounding the other side of the pin and the locking pin
View attachment 430347
View attachment 430348


I’m following the exact directions from edgunwest YT tutorial video but it’s taking a TREMENDOUS amount of force to even get the pin to move a tiny bit let alone actually eject it.

Any advice is appreciated!

Thank you!

It does take quite a bit of impulse force to free it and a quality pin punch. The trick is a way to keep the plug stable when hitting it. Here is what I did.

 

[Bernie7]

For Airguns, you should only use Silicone grease and oils. Do not use any petroleum based lubricants!

I’m sorry I don’t think I ever responded here. The part in the diagram that I’m referring to is outside of the high pressure air system so I think I’m safe using non-silicone based lubricants. It is the roller bearing which stock comes with a rubber/plastic piece but you can get mini metal ball bearings to upgrade. I was wondering because it’s metal and depending on what mag material it’s consistently coming in contact with, what would be ideal, or do you just let the bearings do their thing and not use any type of lube. I figured possibly powdered graphite to prevent dust and debris getting in it and mucking it up.

 

[Bernie7]

It does take quite a bit of impulse force to free it and a quality pin punch. The trick is a way to keep the plug stable when hitting it. Here is what I did.

Really appreciate you sharing your experience. I have it sitting on a rubber mat. I should probably switch to a block of wood for higher energy transfer

 

[bigHUN]

take a vise and push the pin inside and then punch it through. Could happen that is a one way dowel. You can see only one end is rounded - that end you lead in the hole, the "back" end is more like flat.

 

[RIshooter]

Lets start with "chambering", with a jump the pellet from the mag into the breach lead-in.
The Valve and the Indexing Mechanism using a same air volume and pressure from the Reg (REPR).
A certain volume goes to propel the projectile and a "leftover" is triggering the indexing.
For example
If you set the Reg (and jets) for .22 pelets in 15 gn, and next want to shoot 25 gn you would just simple raise the Reg, right? From 80 bars to 130 bars...
But now the heavier mass pellet doesn't have a time to jump over to chamber because the higher pressure started advancing the mag and catch the body of the heavier pellet or may even stuck the mag.

Working alone with a Reg sound easy, but actually if you change the weight or change the caliber you shall consider changing the jets as well.
We still talking Dwell.
The perfect would be each - the Valve and the Indexing - to have its own Reg.

My current setup with a 500mm barrel and targeting 835 fps for 15gn Hades .22 is 79 bars and 2x0.7 jets...
For 25gn MRDs I would need 130-135 bars for 900-930 fps, and the Indexing was advancing with 2x0.6 jets, I would need at least 2x0.7 or better 0.8 jets or maybe even bigger.

I don't think the indexing needs its own regulator, just its own jets/ valves.
Makes sense that there should be separate control over indexing and plenum pressure, though.

 

[bigHUN]

I don't think the indexing needs its own regulator, just its own jets/ valves.
Makes sense that there should be separate control over indexing and plenum pressure, though.

With current Forward Plug design there is still room where to place the jet between #25 and #41.... but honestly making a new would be easier.

but... imagine people would start immediately "upgrading" things

 

[Foxbow]

There is actually a method for regulating the indexing, but it requires a bit of advanced tinkering.

By sealing the opening in the forward plug located beneath the brass shuttle, you can control the air returning to the cycling mechanism. This opening is approximately 2mm in size; I inserted a 2mm brass grub screw with a 0.6mm hole drilled through it. This adjustment significantly reduces the pressure on the cycling mechanism at higher pressures, resulting in smoother shots with less recoil. Alternatively, you can use a small piece of plastic tubing, such as the nozzle from a Ballistol or WD40 can. Ensure one end is melted to prevent it from slipping into the hole.

Even a minor reduction in the opening by 1mm can yield noticeable improvements. However, reducing it to something as small as 0.6mm may necessitate replacing spring number 15. This spring becomes too strong for the reduced pressure, potentially causing it to stay open and release about 30 bars of pressure all at once.

 

[lesh]

Hello all! So I have taken the dot scope off and popped a sightmark wraith mini 2 -16x - I'm quite impressed with it but finding a few things I can't really make sense of! I first zeroed it at 50 yards, and I was night shooting vermin with reasonable success at 20-25 yard ranges that night, by just aiming approximately an inch above the head/ chest and I had about 10 kills - decided to zero for 25 yards as it seems the most distance I'll be shooting from any time soon, so I zeroed, and its spot on I put the gun in a fixed clamp so it was totally still, so its spot on at 25 yards, I'm shooting zan 22 grain slugs at about 900fps from a 350mm Walter barrel, which I know isn't ideal and I'm gonna get an alpha barrel asap but it seems fairly dead on at 25 yards, now I'd assume I'd have to aim a half inch or something like lower than my target for closer 10-12 yard ranges, but to my surprise, the slugs are hitting waaaaaay lower than the zero - if I aim my 25yard zeroed crosshair at a target about 10 yards away the point of impact is about 1.5 or even 2 inches south of the cross hair centre - this seems very low! Especially when the other night with a 50 yard zero I was hitting targets by aiming an inch above my desired point of impacrt? Does anyone have any ideas or insights? I'm not too up on ballistic coefficient's etc but something seems a little strange, I'd like to have one zero and be able to guage closer and further by aiming low / high, I actually should look at the recticle options on my scope too as one might have additional markings that work out well for 10 yards, 30 , 50 etc with a 25 zero - anyway anyone? Hope you all are well

 

[Gerard]

You need to learn about trajectory and how it relates to optical centre over bore centre. Scope over bore height at very short range means you have to hold over quite a lot, and the rate of change for they measurement is very rapid inside the first 20 yards or so.

One morning a few years ago I forgot this as I took took a head shot at a squirrel about 4 yards away. The correct holdover for that .22" airgun with the scope centre, a small 4x scope on low mounts, with about 1.34" above bore centre is 5/8" at 4 yards. Near zero is 9.4 yards, far zero is 19.5 yards. I held on the the cross hairs, hurrying and being forgetful, and the pellet clipped both his jaw hairs and the branch he was laying on. The squirrel ran off of course.

 

[delooper]

Keep this in mind.

Also if you are zeroing at short distances like 25 yds or 10 yds, keep in mind you may have zeroed before the projectile reaches its max altitude. So that will affect how you need to correct if you shoot further than your zero distance.

 

[scottblair]

You need to learn about trajectory and how it relates to optical centre over bore centre. Scope over bore height at very short range means you have to hold over quite a lot, and the rate of change for they measurement is very rapid inside the first 20 yards or so.

One morning a few years ago I forgot this as I took took a head shot at a squirrel about 4 yards away. The correct holdover for that .22" airgun with the scope centre about 2" above bore centre is 1.35" at 4 yards. Near zero is 8 yards, far zero is 18 yards. I held on the the cross hairs, hurrying and being forgetful, and the pellet clipped the branch 1.35" below where I aimed. The squirrel ran off of course.

100% this

 

[scottblair]

Keep this in mind.

View attachment 432148
Also if you are zeroing at short distances like 25 yds or 10 yds, keep in mind you may have zeroed before the projectile reaches its max altitude. So that will affect how you need to correct if you shoot further than your zero distance.

And this excellent explanations

 

[lesh]

Thank you all for your speedy response, all makes a lot of sense and to see it on a drawing makes it all much more clear - its all a learning curve (or trajectory ) I think I need to try presetting the 5 weapon oreset options in the scope to 10 25 50 yards etc must be a thing that people do rather than using the scope on multiple weapons

 

[BlackTitanium]

Thank you all for your speedy response, all makes a lot of sense and to see it on a drawing makes it all much more clear - its all a learning curve (or trajectory ) I think I need to try presetting the 5 weapon oreset options in the scope to 10 25 50 yards etc must be a thing that people do rather than using the scope on multiple weapons

For my use case, backyard pest control, I have zero profiles set for two fixed ranges and two slug weights.
Profile 1 = 13.4 gr slug = long fixed range
Profile 2 = 13.4 gr slug = short fixed range
Profile 4 = 20.5 gr slug = short fixed range
Profile 5 = 20.5 gr slug = long fixed range

 

[lesh]

For my use case, backyard pest control, I have zero profiles set for two fixed ranges and two slug weights.
Profile 1 = 13.4 gr slug = long fixed range
Profile 2 = 13.4 gr slug = short fixed range
Profile 4 = 20.5 gr slug = short fixed range
Profile 5 = 20.5 gr slug = long fixed range

Interesting, I think I'm going to do a few profiles for the same slug weights at various ranges - I had a go at doing this the other day but it seems I just overwrote my old settings rather than saving new ones!

Maybe I pressed the wrong button in the wrong order or something, the navigation around the settings is a little tricky getting used to ive found

 

[lesh]

Was wondering What's the biggest power levels people have achieved in a 350 barrel on an L2 in 30 cal? I'm sure with smallest jets and big reg pressure a stable consistent 85+ fpe is achievable - on the website it says 69/70fpe is the Max but I reckon that's beatable? Anyone ?

 

[delooper]

Was wondering What's the biggest power levels people have achieved in a 350 barrel on an L2 in 30 cal? I'm sure with smallest jets and big reg pressure a stable consistent 85+ fpe is achievable - on the website it says 69/70fpe is the Max but I reckon that's beatable? Anyone ?

I haven't tried to maximize power. My optimization usually goes like this: powerful enough to kill what I need to kill, then optimize for accuracy and air usage efficiency / noise.

Everything I do is short range.