EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

Deepbass, I have installed a couple of MLock accessories to my Valkyrie forearm with a little adjustments to the screws and nuts. There are different makes of MLock accessories out there and the nuts are not all the same. I bought the UTG quick disconnect swivel adaptor before I got my rifle. I attached it as far forward as I could on the 350mm forearm on the left side but when the stock is folded the butt comes in contact with it and it won’t lock. So I searched Amazon and found this single screw version that now allows the stock to close. The rifle is a dream to carry with this setup as the rifle is flat against your back. This single screw adaptor came with a thick nut that wouldn’t work as it was too thick. I took a dremel cutting wheel and made it look like the UTG nut so it fit in the slot of the forearm. I cut the screw to be flush with the nut and it clears the shroud. 
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the other attachment was a 45 degree picatinny rail for a red dot sight. I had to cut a little off the screws to make it clear the shroud too. I also had to buy a 1/2” extension to raise my Holo Sun red dot so I could see through it. I have seen Brian’s gun but he does not have an extension on his. I tried 3 different red dot sights I have and all three were too low for me. But this set up works really good . I sighted it in at 20 yards and the 2 moa dot is all you need for close up shots or night time hunting. Hope this helps everyone. It’s not a high skill job requiring special tools but is required on the tight fitting arm guard. 
 
It’s not a high skill job



You advertise an M-lok compatible hand guard and sell a kit with it, M-lok accessories should attach to it out of the box. That's all. No grinding required.



But that's not the gun, nor does it have anything to do with the gun. The gun is sweet. A machine. My little red machine. She brings out the red in things. They do not like that. She does not care.








 
Can you tell us which is your configuration?

It’s now a pretty standard Leshiy 2 in .22 cal but I’ll get some accessories soon. It was tuned by EdgunWest to 17 J muzzle enegry and Brian is known for tuning perfectly every Edgun that leaves his shop. Also at that energy I could get it shipped without any restrictions and FedEx clearence was really smooth. Owning FAC is not a problem here, just requires registration (already got one) but for now I just want to have some fun! For now that’s all I can say. 
 
Been shooting a lot the last two days changing barrels back and forth between .22 and .30 and changing nozzles and recording results. This is what I call fun work. I adjusted the reg up another 10 bar to 163 and am starting over tomorrow running through the same nozzles. I have also drilled out my blank puck to 9/64” and will try that to see what effect it has on the different weight pellets. I will post my data this weekend. Wish I had a .25 barrel so I could have that data also. It is so easy to swap out the barrels and it is surprising how close to the same impact they are. I made a stupid mistake and put the .22 moderator on the .30 barrel. After two shots I realized what happened when I didn’t hit the paper at 40 yards. Looking from the back I can see a crack in the internal baffle and a lot of lead shavings came out of it. I can’t figure out how to take it apart to really inspect it. Hopefully it will still work, there is nothing rattling when I shake it. I continued using the .30 moderator on the .22 and it is definitely louder. I thought I would mention to those who are just getting their nozzles to be careful when you remove them from the valve hosing. There is a spring with a brass needle behind them and if not careful they can fall out and can be lost or if not noticed the nozzle installed with out them. Just be aware of it. See picture below.

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Okay, I think this has already been asked, but I can't find it. After how many shots should you clean your L2 barrel? 

Since the last barrel cleaning it took quiet of few shots (100) to "settle the barrel" and now am getting a consistent 930s fps / 20ish ft/lbs and smallish groups, under 1/4 at 20 yards and next week I will have access again to 30-50 yards so I hope expect the same accuracy.

But I still have my question: After how many shots do you remember cleaning your barrel? Or is it go with it until you lose accuracy again?
 
You should jb bore past 3 to 4 times the inside of your barrel when you 1st get it then patch worm kit clean it with balistol oil run 10 to 12 patches though it. Then 2 or 3 dry patches and last step I very light mist of balistol oil on a patch to run though it to put a very light oil inside the barrel that's what I do to all my barrels. 


now regular cleaning most guys say they never clean on till it starts to loose accuracy so you will get a lot of different opinions on this. As for me I clean with patch worm about every 2 tins of pellets unless I see a poi difference. This is just my way am sure everyone has a different or same kind of cleaning. 
 
Is the spring underneath the nozzle under a lot of pressure where it might shoot out and get lost when you unscrew the nozzle or is it just under mild pressure? I just want to be prepared.

Dont know if the spring is under pressure from the nozzle but definitely not enough to shoot out when you remove the nozzle. Just dont tip the assembly after removing the nozzles unless it is over a clean work place. I have a habit of loosing small things. 

Yes the red seal is there to make sure nobody takes the valve assembly apart and screws things up under warranty. There is no reason to take it apart. 
 
Thanks @jld1969 for the advice on cleaning the L2 barrel.



What about cleaning the moderator (the stock factory one)? Does it need cleaning or not? If so, how often, how to do it, and what cleaning materials to use?



What type of metal are the internal baffles made of? If aluminum, then I guess no ‘Dip’ method (50-50 mix of white distilled vinegar and 3% hydrogen peroxide), right? Or if steel baffles, would that be OK?



What about ultrasonic cleaning in 50-50 mix of Simple Green and water?



I took the moderator off to give the barrel its initial cleaning, but I have not yet tried to take the moderator apart, so I don’t know the internal structure of the baffles and how it all comes apart. It looks like I’d first need to remove the black o-rings on the ends of the long bolts.



Thanks for any advice on this as well!


 
Is the spring underneath the nozzle under a lot of pressure where it might shoot out and get lost when you unscrew the nozzle or is it just under mild pressure? I just want to be prepared.

Dont know if the spring is under pressure from the nozzle but definitely not enough to shoot out when you remove the nozzle. Just dont tip the assembly after removing the nozzles unless it is over a clean work place. I have a habit of loosing small things. 

Yes the red seal is there to make sure nobody takes the valve assembly apart and screws things up under warranty. There is no reason to take it apart.

Thanks for the reply Leatherman. 👍🏼