EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

My post was supposed to say I DON’T get how a regulator causes the valve to release less air, but if I am understanding what your saying is…you may have your reg set to say 140 bar, but if your reg is not as good it my actually be allowing 145 bar into the plenum and because the plenum is at a higher pressure the valve releases more air than had the reg really been at 140. Is that the gist of it?

I suspect it's a little more than that, as if the regulator was consistently letting it go to 145 bar, you'd simply dial-down the regulator to get 140 consistently. Presumably what's happening is "creep" where the longer you keep the gun idle, the higher the pressure in the plenum gets, i.e. beyond the regulator setting. And beyond creep, there is also just less consistency, i.e. fluctuation shot to shot in plenum pressure.
 
Was able to get out to the range and see how the new regulator works in real application and in 48 degree weather. I bumped up the regulator pressures just a tad and swapped in my 600mm barrel with my Behemoth arriving shortly.
Here are my groups from two magazines at 40 yard’s. On the first target there are 4 shots off center which is where I was getting zero on the scope since I had changed barrels out. The rest were pretty good for me.
3C30E3EB-1525-492F-85CE-831004EEE26B.jpeg
7911014C-F892-4AC0-A330-582A3CC13C87.jpeg
 
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There is a direct relation between Reg set point and Jets size (Valve Dwell time sort of).
Smaller Jet sizes will close the Valve slower, bigger Jets sizes will close the Valve faster.
I am speculating only, but it is possible that the Reg didn't recovered yet and the small Jets still keeping the Valve open and there will be an extencive drain with every shot? Plus the air waste on muffler.
 
I have a fx .22 600 barrel on the way for mine. Going to try shooting 23gn nsa, zan, and anything else in that weight. Going to keep my 1.2 jets and raise reg pressure to shoot them in the mid 900’s. Should be interesting to see accuracy with factory magazine. If I have issues, I might pick up one of the new slug mags to try. I see them being beneficial to us fx barrel users.
 
I may be wrong.... I shot slugs @100 meters maybe about 5K this year with my .25 Impact MK2... and finally ended up going back to pellets. I have found slugs need more tuning attention, finicky, and never as accurate as pellets - for up to 100 meters and below.
But I don't hunt and not plinking in backyard, I am shooting paper rings only at my gun club.
With my Leshiy2 I never even thought going towards slugs, first the mag (and powering mechanism) was not designed for that stress. Second I have not found the L2 accurate enough for 70 meters and beyond.
For a stopping power shooting small critters around a house I can understand someone may say slugs working better ... and someone would say it is really doesn't matter?
 
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I may be wrong.... I shot slugs @100 meters maybe about 5K this year with my .25 Impact MK2... and finally ended up going back to pellets. I have found slugs need more tuning attention, finicky, and never as accurate as pellets - for up to 100 meters and below.
But I don't hunt and not plinking in backyard, I am shooting paper rings only at my gun club.
With my Leshiy2 I never even thought going towards slugs, first the mag (and powering mechanism) was not designed for that stress. Second I have not found the L2 accurate enough for 70 meters and beyond.
For a stopping power shooting small critters around a house I can understand someone may say slugs working better ... and someone would say it is really doesn't matter?

For the pests I shoot at -- raccoons, rats, mice -- slugs aren't really necessary. 15gr .22 pellets work just fine at 900fps. Overkill, even. But it sure is satisfying hitting them with a 40gr slug.
 
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Has anyone noticed any accuracy difference between the old magazine and the 2.0 magazine? The difference is like $40 so if the only concern is that slugs don't fall out then I'm not buying it.
I think it is more a bore match question determining accuracy. I belive there was a post stating even with the .303 slugs the barrel has a smaller ID than .303
But I could be mistaking . Gonna get some anyway..
 
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I think it is more a bore match question determining accuracy. I belive there was a post stating even with the .303 slugs the barrel has a smaller ID than .303
But I could be mistaking . Gonna get some anyway..
.303 are good with the Alfa barrel. A bit big for the choke on the LW.
 
I think it is more a bore match question determining accuracy. I belive there was a post stating even with the .303 slugs the barrel has a smaller ID than .303
But I could be mistaking . Gonna get some anyway..
While it's primarily a bore match issue, I think the poster is concerned about the magazine more over a "reliability of feeding" issue. i.e. if the ammunition is loose in the magazine it might be fed into the barrel not quite centred. The firing forces could shear the slug slightly, so that it gets pushed through the barrel slightly off from "straight", causing the ammunition to be slightly asymmetrically extruded when it leaves the barrel, and off-balance.

I have no idea if this is a real issue or not, but I think that's the concern. Maybe you'd need one of those million frame a second cameras to verify this concern, to get a picture of the slug leaving the barrel.
 
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I purchased my L2 about a year ago, I was recently disassembling for a cleaning and noticed the first stack in the moderator was super dirty like the kevlar padding is full of lead dust and it looks out of round and the ring is flared out.
PXL_20221126_015450180.jpg



I don't see any marks on inside where the pellet is coming from
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this is the next one in the stack, way cleaner but the red ring still looks like it has hits on it? maybe it was always there not sure
PXL_20221126_020357222.jpg


no hit marks on the inside of the exit either.
PXL_20221126_021008833.jpg


just dust
PXL_20221126_021043915.jpg


does this seem normal?
 
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I purchased my L2 about a year ago, I was recently disassembling for a cleaning and noticed the first stack in the moderator was super dirty like the kevlar padding is full of lead dust and it looks out of round and the ring is flared out.
View attachment 308610
but the red ring still looks like it has hits on it?
After cleaning, you can repair the surface and see after a while whether the surface has remained intact. If you suspect that it has been hit....
 
@stoutblock, what are your settings with the longer barrel? I went from the 450mm to 600mm and left everything the same and of course the fps went up and so did the accuracy. I’ve got the 250, 450 and 600mm barrels in .30(alpha and in 250&450mm lw).
I also have the shroud from Jack in the 450mm for the Ronin as well as one for the Huma mod40; the shrouds definitely help. There isn’t a shroud for the 600mm so I used one of my FX shrouds with an adapter and can now use the Mod50 which is a significant improvement on reduced sound.
I did order a Behemoth in 600mm but just waiting on slowPS for it to arrive.
 
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Right now with my shorter barrels I am shooting 15gr .22 pellets and found just over 900fps being about the most consistent at 35 yards. My L2 was originally a .30, and it still has the jets it came with but with these jets it takes about 110 to 120 BAR with the short barrels to reach these speeds. I have not done any serious accuracy tests yet with the longer barrel but I know I can dial it down to 90 BAR and get 910-920fps. I considered a 600mm barrel but thought it was a bit extreme on the non bull-pup L2. I thought the 450mm a good compromise.

I originally got the 160mm long shroud from Jack and it helped a lot. I added 1” of foam (pluming insulation) to the rear and I think it improved the tone. I want to also cover the exposed barrel so I had Jack make me a custom extension. I moved the foam to the rear of the extension and added the Falx and it is currently quieter than my L2 has ever been. Not as quiet as the M3 in .22 with only the Tanto but totally acceptable for the back yard.

I actually like the feel of the L2 with the stock shroud, but I don’t like the complexity of the mounting method and the potential for concentricity errors with the barrel (although I have an idea that would easily remedy this concentricity problem). Shrouds that screw to the barrel are simple and if fabricated right can more easily maintain concentricity. I really have no use for external hand guards plus they interfere with folding the stock (with stock pin). Jack’s shrouds by themselves almost clear the folded stock. If he reduced the diameter of his shroud by just .1” it would clear (hint).

I have given Jack some ideas on some modifications he may want to consider to more easily adapt his shrouds to any L2 barrel length.
Link to these shrouds? You could make a muzzle brake/airstripper looking thing that would go inside the stock shroud and engage with the exit hole to handle the potential concentricity issues... and thread the end that sticks out....

Striplin + "keep it true" in one..... 🤔
 
Link to these shrouds? You could make a muzzle brake/airstripper looking thing that would go inside the stock shroud and engage with the exit hole to handle the potential concentricity issues... and thread the end that sticks out....

Striplin + "keep it true" in one..... 🤔
Something inside the stock L2 shroud that picked up enough of the tip of the outside of the barrel yet still leave plenty of area open for blowback would keep things trued up. It would not have to attach to the barrel but just retrain the shroud from moving away from the center of the barrel.
 
Link to these shrouds? You could make a muzzle brake/airstripper looking thing that would go inside the stock shroud and engage with the exit hole to handle the potential concentricity issues... and thread the end that sticks out....

Striplin + "keep it true" in one..... 🤔