EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

[dorcula]

So this alone won't cut it? What about this instead?

I have that on my Tuxing compressor. Not the best, but works. Certainly no water inside my guns. The fist stage tower is simply a cotton filter. The second stage tower contains a cartridge packed with desiccant, carbon, and molecular sieve just like that standalone Tuxing filter, but smaller. The gotcha is that you need to service it often to replace the filtering media and it is somewhat a pain. I did some mods to it to improve it : https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/tuxing-4500psi-pcp-air-compressor-review.831824/page-12

I think the best and not too expensive way to achieve decent filtration with the Yong Heng is that orange coalescent filter (proven to work, no filter media to replace) followed by a molecular sieve filter like that standalone Tuxing.

Decent, meaning good enough for PCP guns. You would not want to breathe the air coming out of that thing anyway.

 

[scopecreep...]

They produce breathable air.

Perhaps I phrased this wrong. I understand that they produce breathable air which I believe is preferable over including the contaminants the carbon quarantines. Apparently Ed agrees. What I question is why wouldn't you want the carbon?

 

[scopecreep...]

I have that on my Tuxing compressor. Not the best, but works. Certainly no water inside my guns. The fist stage tower is simply a cotton filter. The second stage tower contains a cartridge packed with desiccant, carbon, and molecular sieve just like that standalone Tuxing filter, but smaller. The gotcha is that you need to service it often to replace the filtering media and it is somewhat a pain. I did some mods to it to improve it : https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/tuxing-4500psi-pcp-air-compressor-review.831824/page-12

I think the best and not too expensive way to achieve decent filtration with the Yong Heng is that orange coalescent filter proven to (work, no filter media to replace) followed by a molecular sieve filter like that standalone Tuxing.

Decent, meaning good enough for PCP guns. You would not want to breathe the air coming out of that thing anyway.

The filter I linked to is that "that orange coalescent filter proven to (work, no filter media to replace)". With the amount of moisture I get out of mine I can't imagine using cotton as an absorbative. A couple of small fills and the molecular sieve would be shot.

There's no need for the desiccant after the molecular sieve in Yoda's filter. May I suggest packing this area with molecular sieve instead of desiccant as shown in the diagram in the read I linked to earlier. With mechanical coalescing filter front you should have dry air and minimize molecular sieve charges. Again, refer to the read I linked to for guidelines on when it's time to renew the carbon and molecular sieve.

Here's my budget setup. The Toauto filter I linked to is mounted on the compressor. The Carette with molecular sieve and carbon follows. It's not mounted on the compressor as the vibration tears up foster fittings. Hope this is helpful.

 

[delooper]

Perhaps I phrased this wrong. I understand that they produce breathable air which I believe is preferable over including the contaminants the carbon quarantines. Apparently Ed agrees. What I question is why wouldn't you want the carbon?

A colourful way to state it would be that if you take the styrofoam out of your dinner, there would be more room in your belly to eat the nutritious components of your meal. If you don't have carbon, there would be more room for things like dessicant and sieve in your filter. Since those are the things that do the important work, it's a good idea to concentrate on them.

 

[dorcula]

The filter I linked to is that "that orange coalescent filter proven to (work, no filter media to replace)". With the amount of moisture I get out of mine I can't imagine using cotton as an absorbative. A couple of small fills and the molecular sieve would be shot.

There's no need for the desiccant after the molecular sieve in Yoda's filter. May I suggest packing this area with molecular sieve instead of desiccant as shown in the diagram in the read I linked to earlier. With mechanical coalescing filter front you should have dry air and minimize molecular sieve charges. Again, refer to the read I linked to for guidelines on when it's time to renew the carbon and molecular sieve.

Here's my budget setup. The Toauto filter I linked to is mounted on the compressor. The Carette with molecular sieve and carbon follows. It's not mounted on the compressor as the vibration tears up foster fittings. Hope this is helpful.

View attachment 359370

Nice setup. Another reason not to mount molecular sieve filter on the compressor frame is that unless the media is packed very, very tightly, vibration grinds the beads into fine dust that then goes downstream...

A colourful way to state it would be that if you take the styrofoam out of your dinner, there would be more room in your belly to eat the nutritious components of your meal. If you don't have carbon, there would be more room for things like dessicant and sieve in your filter. Since those are the things that do the important work, it's a good idea to concentrate on them.

Yeah that's what I meant. Limited space inside that cartridge, I'd rather use it all to address the moisture.

 

[Yoda_1794]

I went ahead and switched the desiccant to the beginning for a temporary fix. And then remembered I have the black filter that the Yong Heng came with and put that in line. So I have the black filter cotton one first, desiccant, molecular sieve and then more molecular sieve. Am I doing this right? I know it may not be the best but would this hold me over until the orange filter arrives

 

[Yoda_1794]

Here what it looks like before I hooked everything up

 

[ashrust]

I'm looking for some suggestions to maximize my long range accuracy.

Currently running:
- .25 Leshiy 2 with 450mm barrel and Donnyfl Shogun
- REPR set 182 bar
- One jet plugged, the other 0.2
- Using a 50 grain Altaros slug, with .21 BC.

I'm getting ~837 fps, ~20 shots per fill, and it's deadly out to ~80 yards but then the accuracy rapidly degrades. Any thoughts how to improve the accuracy?

 

[AirRifleFantastic]

Hello.
I've been reading this forum for a long time and gladly signed up recently.
I have already learned a lot from you and I am happy to inform myself here.
I come from Germany and have had my Leshiy 2 in cal .177 for some time.
Here in Germany there are hardly any Leshiy owners and therefore no Leshiy forum.
Now I have a question that I haven't read here yet.
Here in Germany, the power is limited to 7.5 joules for an air rifle.
Do you think that you can also go hunting with it, for example on rats?
Thanks

 

[delooper]

Hello.
I've been reading this forum for a long time and gladly signed up recently.
I have already learned a lot from you and I am happy to inform myself here.
I come from Germany and have had my Leshiy 2 in cal .177 for some time.
Here in Germany there are hardly any Leshiy owners and therefore no Leshiy forum.
Now I have a question that I haven't read here yet.
Here in Germany, the power is limited to 7.5 joules for an air rifle.
Do you think that you can also go hunting with it, for example on rats?
Thanks

At 7.5 joules you'd be shooting an 8 grain pellet at around 170m/s. Yes, that should be fine to kill rats, but you'll probably need to be hitting them with brain shots. If you can find a pellet that gets good expansion you might be able to do body shots. I don't have any real experience with 0.177 calibre.

In Germany is the regulation just an energy regulation? In Canada it's a combined energy and velocity regulation on guns that do not require a license.

 

[AirRifleFantastic]

Thank you very much for the great answer, delooper.
I have read many of your posts with pleasure.
Then I'll see if I can get pellets or slugs that weigh at least 8 grains.
As far as I know, here in Germany the ordinance is primarily an energy ordinance.
An air rifle or an air pistol may have a maximum energy of 7.5 joules when freely
purchased from the age of 18.

 

[delooper]

Thank you very much for the great answer, delooper.
I have read many of your posts with pleasure.
Then I'll see if I can get pellets or slugs that weigh at least 8 grains.
As far as I know, here in Germany the ordinance is primarily an energy ordinance.
An air rifle or an air pistol may have a maximum energy of 7.5 joules when freely
purchased from the age of 18.

I lived in Bonn for a year, and have visited several other times. I found Germany to be quite a fun place to live. I played for the Troisdorf Dynamite ice hockey team, and rode around Germany on my BMW motorcycle. The Eifel region was my go-to motorcycle destination.

If you want to maximize expansion, probably the "Predator Polymags" would be one of your best options.

Predator Polymag .177 Cal

Simply the best hunting pellets on the market today! Innovative head design combines sharp polymer tip with hollow head - Delivers penetration and shock to vita

www.airgunsource.ca

I do not know if that is easy to find in Germany, but I would imagine you could find something like that without too much trouble.

 

[AirRifleFantastic]

Wow, you've had great experiences in Germany.
I like to watch ice hockey. Before I fell ill, I also enjoyed driving my BMW vintage cars for 30 years.
Mainly in Westphalia. The Eifel is also a great destination.
When optimizing my Leshiy, I like to think of your recommendation from the Predator Polymags.
I just googled, I can get them in Germany.
Many thanks for this great tip.

 

[Noob_to_this]

Get a 2mm steel ball and form/burnish the reg seat. That's too mich creep. You may have a little debree in it that need to be cleaned or machine mark to compress witb the ball. Don't use the reg ball for the seating opreation or might damage it.

Is the ceramic ball supposed to be 2mm or 2.38mm? Mine is 2.38mm maybe this is the cause for my creep? I checked everything else and all looks fine. Changed all 3 of the O rings just to make sure it wasn't them and I'm still getting the same creep.

 

[bigHUN]

2.0 mm or 2.3 or 2.5 is really not important, but make a ball create - sit tight in the indent.
Put a new ball in place and remove the belleville washers from the Reg, close the REPR and refill the bottle. Leave that pressure for over night, the ball will make the indent.
Let say 24 hrs later empty the tank (here is a trick) and assemble back fully the REPR. Make some half tin shots, and voila = nomore creep.

 

[dorcula]

2.0 mm or 2.3 or 2.5 is really not important, but make a ball create - sit tight in the indent.
Put a new ball in place and remove the belleville washers from the Reg, close the REPR and refill the bottle. Leave that pressure for over night, the ball will make the indent.
Let say 24 hrs later empty the tank (here is a trick) and assemble back fully the REPR. Make some half tin shots, and voila = nomore creep.

I suspect that a larger ball may mess with the calibration of the reg, requiring a greater force to open. If the documentation says 2mm, then it's 2mm.

There is no need to depressurize before putting back the piston with the washer stack (and depressurizing with a closed reg and a bottle installed can be a challenge). It will start slowly opening the reg as you screw it in. By that time plenty of threads will be engaged and the piston will be making a seal. As demonstrated here:

 

[dorcula]

Yes, exactly. Significantly faster first shot. Interestingly enough, my REPR gun does not display such behavior, next to no creep.
Oh well, I'll skip the Huma then.

In case anyone cares, I went ahead and rebuilt the stock reg: cleaned everything, polished the belleville washers, replaced all o-rings, lubed everything. It did help with the creep: now I'm only seeing 10 to 15 extra fps on the first shot, compared to 25-30 fps before that (this is a .22 shooting 18-grainers). This I can live with.

 

[dorcula]

Do you have occasional cycling issues that you can't resolve? Have you checked your mags? With metal mags, a slightly bent back plate may create interference, preventing the mag from rotating freely. With the newer polymer mags, the mag body itself may be warped and cause bad fit even with a good plate and also catch on the face of barrel while rotating. Tolerances are tight, and even a small problem here may cause cycling issues. Obviously the plates are easy to replace, but the mag bodies need a little work to fix.

I've encountered a few problematic mags in different calibers, this is what I do to fix them. All cycle flawlessly now.

Tools needed: a perfectly flat surface, 800 and 1500 grit sandpaper, a 2.5mm allen key, and a vise.

Hope this helps someone.

Checking for plate gap

A bent plate

Disassembling for inspection

Mag body

Yep, a warped mag body. This is actually not too bad, I've seen worse.

Sandpaper to the rescue...

Carefully sanding on a flat surface. You can see the high spots being sanded away as you progress. Finish with 1500 grit sandpaper.

Cleaned up

Perfect fit (with a new plate)

Thickness before:

Thickness after (total 0.1mm of material removed)

 

[dwm]

Anyone any idea what could cause the indexing spring in the r2d2 to compress, I have an indexing issue that 100% is the spring in question, mine started playing up and I checked everything else before this spring, found it to be out of spec at 14mm so stretched it to temporarily tied me over till a new one arrived, that solved the issue straight away but issue came back after about 20 mags which I was expecting tbh, when the new one arrived I measured it at around 16.5mm, installed it and everything was great for around 20-30 mags before the problem reappeared, re-inspected the spring and its 14.5mm, I pulled all the parts in that part of the indexing system and nothing at all looks out of place/worn etc so wondering what could be causing that spring to over compress

 

[sb327]

Seems I’ve read that others put some kind of stop in there due to this issue, hopefully someone will chime in.

Dave