EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

Jump to latest Follow Reply
For sure, she's like a little energizer bunny :)
I've looked over the schematic and I believe my concoction runs right up to the edge of the tower cap and not over it, if I'm interpreting everything correctly.
I'll check the cap today and see if I can feel/see any air escaping.....Do the ole "lay a piece of tissue paper" over it and watch for any movement upon firing.
My only concern would be blocking the vent holes completely, not sure if that would have any negative impact.
Let me know what you come up with after your visit to the shop....I'll be the first in line to give you my money for a custom cap if it works:)
 
Upvote 0
Well thanks to bigHUN I took things one step further and did add another layer over the top cap.
It still vents air but is virtually a fraction of the sound it once was.
I also fitted that big opening in the end of the Sarissa to accommodate the smaller 177 caliber pellet.
I can safely say now that I'm about as close to that "mouse walking on cotton" sound as I'm ever going to get.
My very own "personal DB meter" was more than pleased to hear the difference.
Out of curiosity I downloaded several DB meter apps for my iphone and found the lowest read 70 and the highest right at 71.9.
And yes, it's still putting these JSB Exact Monster Diabolos through the exact same hole.
I'm a happy man now with a very happy "personal DB meter" :) :)

IMG_8626.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: dv8eod
Upvote 0
I won't bother you with the amount of hair-pulling it took to get some accuracy from my .25 setup. But I did find out that my gun can actually shoot straight.

Check out the picture below, two groups at 30m, the top group is actually a good group i get when shooting from the magazine. It mostly sprays all pellets and slugs horizontally.

The lower group is 12 shots single loaded, straight into the barrel, with the mag in between.

I'm using the new slug mag with a 350mm Alpha barrel.

Anyone got any ideas what's going wrong and how to sort this out?

WhatsApp Image 2023-07-22 at 00.07.09.jpeg
 
Upvote 0
The mag teeth are still black and look perfect. The magazine is as good as new. It's been spraying like this since the beginning. If i hold the mag against some light, I see that the plate does not sit flush with the mag face. If that is part of the problem then I find that absolutely ridiculous and i would expect a perfect replacement. If i would sell parts with such a huge markup, I'd sure as hell check each and every part to perfection before sending it out.
I am also getting quite a lot of lead flaking, not sure if that's relevant.

I did read a post about a breach pin being the culprit, I will test that out before further blaming the magazine: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/edgun-leshiy-2.654567/page-87#post-916941
 
Upvote 0
bigHUN said:
For mag indexing issues - I have a question to you...
Look at the mag teethead - metal center piece. Is it metal shiny or still the original black paint on it? Start and go from there.

View attachment 374793

Also, are these parts well lubed?

View attachment 374794
Click to expand...
Not related to the conversation you're having but I just saw this post and wanted to see if there is a guide to lube point for the l2, I just got min and want to keep it in top working condition.
 
Upvote 0
Foxbow said:
The mag teeth are still black and look perfect. The magazine is as good as new....
Click to expand...
Sorry, I am not talking about the teeth piece, but the screw that holds it in place. Tried to point the arrow to those edges. Don't ask me how but in my case the long dowel was touching it and shaved off the metal edge. Pushed back the dowel (best to do clamping in a vise and not with a hammer) and now back to flawless.
 
Upvote 0
bigHUN said:
Sorry, I am not talking about the teeth piece, but the screw that holds it in place. Tried to point the arrow to those edges. Don't ask me how but in my case the long dowel was touching it and shaved off the metal edge. Pushed back the dowel (best to do clamping in a vise and not with a hammer) and now back to flawless.
Click to expand...
Yes, that screw head looks fine.
 
Upvote 0
rbolton6 said:
Until then, I'm keeping things just like they are and ordering myself a 30 cal barrel kit and I have no doubt the Sarissa will handle this as it came off on my 30 cal Cricket 2 cannon, which it tamed to backyard friendly easily.
Click to expand...

Watch out for bore alignment issues. The Sarrissa is long, has a very tight bore for a .30 cal, and their M14 endcap has a pass-through hole and does not properly center on the barrel face like it needs to with L2 barrels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rbolton6
Upvote 0
dv8eod said:
@Foxbow, the mag plate definitely needs to sit flush according to others here that had the same problem. It causes drag that throws off the timing of the indexing and misalignment with the bore. I believe someone in this thread used sandpaper and a flat surface to correct theirs.
Click to expand...

Literally 3 pages back:

EDgun - Edgun Leshiy 2

So this alone won't cut it? What about this instead? I have that on my Tuxing compressor. Not the best, but works. Certainly no water inside my guns. The fist stage tower is simply a cotton filter. The second stage tower contains a cartridge packed with desiccant, carbon, and molecular sieve...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
Upvote 0
dorcula said:
Literally 3 pages back:

EDgun - Edgun Leshiy 2

So this alone won't cut it? What about this instead? I have that on my Tuxing compressor. Not the best, but works. Certainly no water inside my guns. The fist stage tower is simply a cotton filter. The second stage tower contains a cartridge packed with desiccant, carbon, and molecular sieve...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
Click to expand...
Thank you. I've seen the post, but when I buy a €120 piece of plastic, I do not expect it to be warped and maybe you won't be able to return it once you have sanded it down and still have issues with it :cautious:
 
Upvote 0
IAfaug said:
Is that screw right hand or left hand thread ? Or any tips to get mag apart to sand it
Click to expand...
Standard thread. Lefty loosey. There might be some thread locker there, too. Use a quality allen key and clamp the center post really well.
Foxbow said:
Thank you. I've seen the post, but when I buy a €120 piece of plastic, I do not expect it to be warped and maybe you won't be able to return it once you have sanded it down and still have issues with it :cautious:
Click to expand...
And I thought those things were expensive here at $90 a pop!

Anyway, inspect it first before you sand. Hopefully it's just a problematic plate and not the mag itself.
 
Upvote 0
I think I have accomplished what I had thought was impossible: outperform the STO Sarissa, which I consider the gold standard of airgun sound suppression, in a shorter package on the L2. For that, it took the reflex Behemoth with a higher volume reflex tube (Mr. Jack.K's idea) and a special blast baffle of my own design in the first chamber. Yes you could achieve good suppression with the Behemoth simply by adding additional modules, but then you'd have a big long heavy can hanging off the end of your barrel which goes against everything the L2 stands for. The entire point of this exercise was to keep everything short and light.

20230804_131541.jpg
.

Image 8-4-23 at 1.25 PM.jpeg


Image 8-4-23 at 1.27 PM.jpeg


Image 8-4-23 at 1.30 PM.jpeg


The gun is the L2 in .22, 350mm barrel, making 35 FPE.

Length comparison of the 3 moderators: the Behemoth with 1 middle section, STO Falx, STO Sarissa.

20230804_104334.jpg


I took the averages of dB meter readings of several shots with each setup, trying to be as consistent as possible. Here are the results. Please ignore the absolute dB numbers: these look higher than you would think for a reason, they are only valid for MY specific testing environment and are meaningless in any other environment. I'm only posting these to illustrate *relative* performance of different setups. Best to worst:

1. 83.6dB Reflex Behemoth with big tube, 2 middle sections + baffle (a small, but noticeable and measurable improvement over #2)
2. 84.2dB STO Sarissa, Reflex Behemoth with big tube, only 1 middle section + baffle
3. 84.8dB Non-reflex Behemoth, 2 mid sections + baffle in first chamber replacing the kevlar spool.
4. 85.4dB Reflex Behemoth with 2 middle sections (standard reflex tube, empty rear chamber).
5. 85.8dB STO Falx, Standard (non - reflex) Behemoth with 2 middle sections.
6. 86.0dB Stock 350mm shroud with an STO insert.

There was no measurable or noticeable improvement from adding 3rd section to my #1 setup. For normal use, I'm going to settle on the short #2 setup with only one mid section: it's definitely good enough for me. Same performance as the Sarissa, shorter overall, and with a quick detach!

Observations:
1. I am finally happy with my L2 .22/350 setup.
2. The reflex Behemoth as it comes from factory provides only a minor improvement in sound suppression over the standard Behemoth. The tiny reflex tube on the 350mm version is next to useless. It really shines with a bigger reflex tube and a baffle in the blast chamber that's originally left empty.
3. The non-reflex Behemoth with a baffle replacing the kevlar spool in the rear section outperforms the standard reflex Behemoth.
4. The L2 is still not mouse fart quiet by any means, lol. This is now my mouse fart quiet setup :D

20230804_131359.jpg


Next: work on my .25 and .30 setups.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: rigbymauser
Upvote 0
dorcula said:
I think I have accomplished what I had thought was impossible: outperform the STO Sarissa, which I consider the gold standard of airgun sound suppression, in a shorter package on the L2. For that, it took the reflex Behemoth with a higher volume reflex tube (Mr. Jack.K's idea) and a special blast baffle of my own design in the first chamber. Yes you could achieve good suppression with the Behemoth simply by adding additional modules, but then you'd have a big long heavy can hanging off the end of your barrel which goes against everything the L2 stands for. The entire point of this exercise was to keep everything short and light.

View attachment 377995.

View attachment 377996

View attachment 377997

View attachment 377998

The gun is the L2 in .22, 350mm barrel, making 35 FPE.

Length comparison of the 3 moderators: the Behemoth with 1 middle section, STO Falx, STO Sarissa.

View attachment 377994

I took the averages of dB meter readings of several shots with each setup, trying to be as consistent as possible. Here are the results. Please ignore the absolute dB numbers: these look higher than you would think for a reason, they are only valid for MY specific testing environment and are meaningless in any other environment. I'm only posting these to illustrate *relative* performance of different setups. Best to worst:

1. 83.6dB Reflex Behemoth with big tube, 2 middle sections + baffle (a small, but noticeable and measurable improvement over #2)
2. 84.2dB STO Sarissa, Reflex Behemoth with big tube, only 1 middle section + baffle
3. 84.8dB Non-reflex Behemoth, 2 mid sections + baffle in first chamber replacing the kevlar spool.
4. 85.4dB Reflex Behemoth with 2 middle sections (standard reflex tube, empty rear chamber).
5. 85.8dB STO Falx, Standard (non - reflex) Behemoth with 2 middle sections.
6. 86.0dB Stock 350mm shroud with an STO insert.

There was no measurable or noticeable improvement from adding 3rd section to my #1 setup. For normal use, I'm going to settle on the short #2 setup with only one mid section: it's definitely good enough for me. Same performance as the Sarissa, shorter overall, and with a quick detach!

Observations:
1. I am finally happy with my L2 .22/350 setup.
2. The reflex Behemoth as it comes from factory provides only a minor improvement in sound suppression over the standard Behemoth. The tiny reflex tube on the 350mm version is next to useless. It really shines with a bigger reflex tube and a baffle in the blast chamber that's originally left empty.
3. The non-reflex Behemoth with a baffle replacing the kevlar spool in the rear section outperforms the standard reflex Behemoth.
4. The L2 is still not mouse fart quiet by any means, lol. This is now my mouse fart quiet setup :D

View attachment 377999

Next: work on my .25 and .30 setups.
Click to expand...

Good evening,


Is this something you would be willing to make and sell, if so id like to purchase one that'll work with .30 if the bore need changed from your 22 design ? the baffle for the first chamber mentioned here "3. 84.8dB Non-reflex Behemoth, 2 mid sections + baffle in first chamber replacing the kevlar spool."
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu