Edgun R5m Fill Pressure, Regulator Creep & Broken Valve Lessons

Hello all,
I thought I'd take a moment to share a story of a surprise failure of my 3yr old Edgun R5m in .25 caliber.
I originally tuned this gun to shoot JSB 25.4 gr at 875 fps (54 clicks CCW from full CW, for those of you who have worked on Edguns), where it has performed beautifully until the last couple of months.

I use a Hill hand pump to keep it topped off as needed for occasional pesting use, with an average daily shot count of less than 5. Since the air reservoir is rated for 300 bar, I used to pump it to 275-290 bar. Yessir, that does take some effort, but improves the shot count between fills if you're willing to put in the effort. Same for my Leshiy classic (with far fewer pump strokes though).

In the past few months, I've been reading more and more messages about regulator creep, where it surreptitiously begins passing pressure higher than the reg's setpoint. This begins to produce partial valve lock, and velocities drop. At first, this occurs only on the first shot following a rest period, but apparently can progress to follow up shots as leaks in the regulator progress, read on...

This seems to have happened to me, both in my Leshiy Classic and my R5m. I noticed that shot velocities were dropping, and taking the POI (point of impact) down sharply beyond 25yd. I got out the chronograph and was shocked to measure only about 650fps!

Unaware of the stress that filling beyond 225-250 bar was putting on the regulator O-rings and the resultant creep that was occurring, I compensated by raising the hammer spring tension. It took about 20 clicks CCW on the adjusting screw to return the velocity to about 880fps. This was a total of 74 clicks CCW on the adjuster screw (that's way too much, now I know!). The gun shot great for about a dozen shots, and then on the last shot (we'll call it lucky #13 for grins) the valve made a funny rapid stuttering sound and all the air bled out of the barrel.

Yep, lesson 1, that's what it sounds like when the valve breaks!
Lesson 2: 54-56 clicks CCW hammer spring tension works fine, but somewhere between 56 & 74 broke the valve.

Upon disassembly, I confirmed a broken valve. These Edguns are so easy to disassemble, btw. The white plastic (delrin ?) spring guide broke off the back:

Hornet Valve n Regulator Service 1 20220617.jpg


Here's a closeup of the internal components, with the replacement valve next to the broken one:
Hornet Valve n Regulator Service 2 20220617.jpg


You can see that the thin metal valve stem was bent from the excessive impact. The very end was also beginning to mushroom, and I had to file away the mushroomed portion before I could pull it out of the valve body/bushing. There was also a slight imprint on the face of the exterior valve bushing (see the hex brass part of the valve body) where overtravel of the hammer was causing it to smack the bushing, but not enough to peen over the bushing hole. Sorry, no picture of this.

I polished the stem and spring guide of the new valve with Flitz polishing compound, using a cordless drill to spin it against my swab & rag. I also disassembled, cleaned, polished, & lubed the regulator assembly (piston, Belleville washers, O-ring seating surfaces). Super Lube synthetic grease seems to work quite well.

I didn't find any damage to any of the reg O-rings, piston face seating surface, or the delicate nozzle/orifice bump on the bottom of the reg adjusting screw, hmmmm. However, one of the large 25x3mm O-rings on the OD of the regulator, on the high pressure side, was deformed slightly, and no longer had a circular cross-section. I replaced both of these.
I also took the opportunity to remove the locking plug (left hand thread) to expose the pressure adjusting screw, and measured the depth of the screw from the top of the reg housing. Mine measured 0.238", in case anyone needs a starting point value for 125 Bar and doesn't have a reg tester. I recorded this for future reference, as it is the factory setting for 125 BAR. See the factory "125" marking on the side of the reg body. I didn't disturb the setting and replaced the locking plug.

I had seen several Utube videos on tuning regulators and valves, and decided to deburr the ground ends of the valve return spring on the ID, using a small conical dremel grinding stone at low speed with a cordless screwdriver. I also lightly greased this spring inside & out with the super lube grease.

After reassembly, it didn't take long to reset the velocity to about 885 fps with JSB 25.4 gr, needing 56 clicks CCW, almost identical to my original setup.

As a bonus, get this: my R5m no longer PINGS during the shot cycle. Hooray! I always hated that, and could never find any resolution described online to stop the ping.

Was it the deburring & light coating of grease on the valve return spring that dampened its vibration? The factory condition was bone dry. It remains to be seen if it will throw tiny amounts of grease that get into the valve. I used the grease sparingly here but over time vibration may try to kick it around.

I realize this was long, but I hope some of you learned from my trials. I have learned so much from this forum, I wanted to pay something back.

I have more to share about polishing the reg & buying replacement O-rings, perhaps in other threads, if there's interest.

Regards,
Feinwerk
 
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Excellent write up! Agree that the Edguns are about as easy as it gets to disassemble for work. Keep going back & forth about getting into another one, probably a long in .25.

Also agree that over 250-ish bar fill, while perfectly safe up to 300, probably causes more stress on the softer bits than the extra shots are worth, for most people's usage scenarios.

Good on ya for not only fixing, but analyzing the failure & taking a lesson from it! Ounce of prevention, as they say.

Used to hand pump a cylinder about that size & yeah boy, it's work. And I didn't usually go over 230-ish. If you were in the other Commonwealth (Kentucky), would suggest getting a decent tank & I'll fill it for you any time. Don't know your situation regarding nearby places to fill- not much around here, hence the new compressor.
 
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Thanks guys and thanks for the fill offer, Wolfman. I'm in Virginia so it's a bit of a drive for a fill up!

I'm happy to report that the Hornet is holding air just fine and the first shot of the day was a successful, one-shot pest connection at 45yd. And NO 'PING!' noise. Our resident red-shouldered hawk will be happy today.

I forgot to show you all a nice photo of the Hornet. I was lucky to get the last yellow and black laminate stock from Edgun West in 2019. It wears a Vortex Diamondback 6 - 24 ffp scope and an Atlas BT-10 V8 bipod. Just ordered an Atlas BT46 bipod with the non-rotating rubber feet for myself for Father's Day which will upgrade the Hornet and the older Atlas will go back onto 'Boris', my Leshiy Classic.

I like to use the legs of the bipod as a grip and also I place one of the rubber feet or the other against objects such as trees or door and window frames so that I can press my shoulder into it slightly for a steadier hold. The older Atlas rubber feet will sometimes spin/roll and lose their grip on the object I'm bracing to.

The Hornet 20190704.jpg


The Hornet with Range Card 20201230.jpg



Regards,
Feinwerk
 
Let me also add that while I had the gun apart I had a look at the bolt block by itself. It slides off with just one screw for easy inspection and cleaning, and allows full pass-through for cleaning the barrel.

The breech o-ring was in surprisingly good condition. This could be because I lubricate all my pellets with a combination of Krytech bicycle chain wax lube and a little bit of ballistol. I will see a tiny bit of white wax residue on the bolt probe, breech O-ring, and magazine O-rings, but nothing that I would call significant or obstructive. Cleaning the bore is super easy with just a few pulls using dry patches

The bolt probe sliding mechanism seemed like it was dragging from old, thickened grease. I think the factory lubrication had been starting to dry out. I'm not confident on disassembling this is component yet so I compromised by adding a few strategic drops of Super Lube synthetic oil on the slider, track, bolt body, puzzle - piece bolt connector rod and magazine index cam. I used the hammer cocking stud underneath to work the bolt probe back and forth about 30 or 40 times to distribute the new oil and loosen up the original factory grease. The action is so much better now.

Can any of you familiar with Edguns give me a link or describe how the bolt probe assembly comes apart in case I want to do a more thorough job next time? I have the schematic diagram with the exploded parts view but some of you already know that this doesn't always tell the entire story about the best way to go about disassembly.

Thanks,
Feinwerk
 
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I owned every gun Ed made except the new leshiy , and they rarely I mean rarely ever fail, however now and thenI think 3 of my valves broke and I fill my guns to 300bar always , I broke one valve in a leshiy but it had 50k pellets threw it , most shot gun I own , and it never had 1 oring failure amazing , My lelya broke a valve also when I shot a hadies dont ask me why I shot so many slugs and pellets but the hadies is when it failed on me, Of all guns I own I prefer the durability and how easy they are to service , I know when I am out in woods my ed guns will not fail like some other brands , I am a hunter LOU

p/s Feinwerk , it is simple to disassemble clean and lube , Ed does put grease in his bolts , I clean mine and just use light oil , they machined soo well, they can even be dry and operate smooth as silk
 
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I disassembled, cleaned & re-lubed the bolt block on my Edgun R5M today. I've never seen this documented anywhere, so here are some pics and notes with my disassembly sequence. It was easy. The only trick was figuring out to use a long allen key to push out the rear bolt cover plug from the inside.

The factory flat head retaining screws were *very* tight and popped sharply as they released. I used a lot of torque to break them free, was afraid I was going to strip out the sockets. Be sure to use a quality wrench, apply increasing torque slowwwly, & wiggle slightly to get them to release.

Here's my master photo diagram with sequence:
R5M Bolt Block Disassembly 9 Annotated 20220630.jpg

Here's the underside of the bolt block before disassembly:
R5M Bolt Block Disassembly 2 Annotated 20220630.jpg

Here's how I popped out the rear bolt cover plug using an allen key:
R5M Bolt Block Disassembly 6 20220630.jpg


I chucked the bolt in my hand drill from both ends to polish the O.D. using 4000 grit 3M abrasive paper:
R5M Bolt Block Disassembly 8 20220630.jpg


Here's the bolt after polishing. You can see some linear galling scratches on the rear O.D. (to the right), so the metal pairing or hardness may not be ideal between bolt and block, but it feels better now. I didn't attempt to polish the mating female pocket inside the block for lack of a good method. I'm avoiding grease here to reduce friction. If synthetic oil doesn't hold up, perhaps powdered graphite or powdered dry molybdenum disulfite will work.

R5M Bolt Block Disassembly 10 20220630.jpg


The factory grease was getting sticky and causing excess drag on all the sliding parts. I used Super Lube synthetic oil lightly on all sliding parts and surfaces, except for the slider cam and lever plate track. These have much higher contact forces, so I used Super Lube synthetic grease there.

While I had the action out, I also took the opportunity to apply some molybdenum disulfide grease to the hammer & sear, which can be done using a small applicator through the side and bottom acess holes in the trigger group area without any disassembly.

The rifle cocks easier and the trigger sure feels better (sorry, no measurements on pull weight). I can still feel some dragging during cocking though, perhaps coming from the bolt handle carriage or forward cocking rod. That's a future exploratory project.

Regards,
Feinwerk

R5M Bolt Block Disassembly 5 20220630.jpg
 
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@Leon83,
Sweet, thanks for sharing. That orange and black laminate stock looks nice also. I'm interested in the cheek pad and numbered magazines for your Matador.

Now that I feel like I've learned my way around disassembly and maintenance of my Edguns, I have thought about someday adding a Lelya. Apparently many parts and o-rings are the same as the R5M.
 
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