Feel free to call me stupid..... Or help clearing pellets stuck in barrel

A heat gun, set on high, will expand the tube a few thousandth's and they should drive out while the barrel is still hot. That’s not enough heat to anneal the steel but is enough to expand it.
I would not necessarily count on the expansion of the steel. Lead has a bit over double the thermal expansion coefficient of steel. So theoretically the lead will expand more than the steel for the same temperature increase.


IMO heating till the lead gets soft but not molten will proivde the best opportunity to drive them out. Regards
 
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I wouldn't try heating I drove out 2 slugs caught up by the choke last weekend I used a solid cleaning rod and small brass hammer with a jag on the end they were hollow point so the jag went into the first. Slug a ways as I was driving them out the way they came in inspected the barrel and it looked fine if you do heat it I wouldn't go to nuts on it just enough to help soften the lead some
 
Well. Tomorrow we gonna find out!
I've had the barrel soaking with WD-40 for a few days to see of that helps.
They come out or I'll trash that barrel and call it a learning experiance.
If you've soaked it in WD40 please be very careful with heating it since WD40 has a low flash point. Get as much out as you can before you heat. Also if any gets between pellets and it combusts...:eek: Just make sure each end of the barrel is pointed in a safe direction when heating..
 
If you've soaked it in WD40 please be very careful with heating it since WD40 has a low flash point. Get as much out as you can before you heat. Also if any gets between pellets and it combusts...:eek: Just make sure each end of the barrel is pointed in a safe direction when heating..
I was thinking to look down the barrel as I heated it.
Ummm.... not gonna be even close to doing something THAT stupid!
It's like the Guy in the insane asylum. "I'm here because I'm insane! Not Stupid"
 
I would ask FX how much heat the liner can stand. I read in a few places that many steel alloys can take almost 900 F without changing the temper / hardness. We saved a TC pistol barrel from having to mechanically remove a stuck hard cast bullet by placing it in an oven set to just over 600.

 
To be honest. It is the older STX barrel. When I checked? A new liner is the Upgraded Supreme so was gonna go that way any who.
Plus gonna get the .30 Barrel kit. The lesson here?
Don't just shoot until things go wrong with a cast slug! CHECK THE BARREL AFTER every SHOT!
Nice thing about 30 cal will be obvious recoil so you'll know..
 
I have no idea what you mean? I've had .30, .357, .50 cal Evanix and felt no recoil.
Maybe a bump but nothing I'd run to Momma and talk about.
Recoil doesn't mean a kick like a 30.06 from a Garand. A "bump" is recoil. Just enough so you know positively something came out the barrel. My 22 M-rod is a heavy gun and firing pellets I really don't feel any recoil. Of course by law of physics it is recoiling but the recoil is masked by the mechanical action of shooting. I know something came out more because I hear the pellet hit the target.
 
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I have had a similar experence with an Edgun in .25 cal. I used a 3/16 th wood bit, 14 inches long. Put several wraps of eletrical tape near cutting end and a inch or so apart to prevent steel bit from hitting the barrel. With the barrel removed from action, turned bit by hand to cut into lead and removed bit and shake out cuttings . do this untill you have cut through as many slugs as possible by hand. Then use a carbon fiber rod as large as you can to slip into the muzzel end of barrel . With breech end of barrel on an end grain pice of soft wood tap on carbon rod with medium weight hammer. Mark rod to check on progerss. also check to see if slug is comming out, at which point hold barrel clear of wood . Ad eletrical tape to bit as needed to prevent steel bit from hitting barrel. db