Some factors to consider are...
Your eyes: Seeing the fine reticle at low power on a FFP scope can be hard to do for some. Your eyes will dictate your preference to the fine reticle at low power on any FFP. They are pretty fine at low power. A trick I figured out when buying the FFP to correct the "fine reticle" is to find a scope with even lower power levels than I would use. So I will buy a 3-18 power, so at 6 power the reticle is larger and easily seen well and all my holdover remains constant no matter the magnification.
The reticle size at preferred magnification on the target: The size of the reticle on a FFP scope doesn't change in relation to the target size. So if it is 1/4 MOA center dot or cross hair it will be a precise aiming point, and will always measure 1/4 MOA on target even when zoomed in. Keep in mind if it was a 1.25 MOA dot or cross hair it will obscure and cover a 1" target dot at any magnification. A SFP scope will change the size of the target zooming in, but not the dot or cross hair. And so the dot or cross hair is likely to really oscure the target at low magnification.
And last but not least, either a FFP or a SFP scope can be used for target shooting whether you are only using the center of the reticle and dialing for different distances or holding over with the reticle hash marks: But you must be correct about which of the holdover hash marks you are using on a SFP scope if not on high power because it changes with magnification. If only dialing the top turret for the distance to target on each scope then it doesn't matter (only the preferred magnification and reticle size on target will matter to you) but the math and amount of clicks must be correct for the giving yardage.
Some screenshots of the two scopes on target at high and low power, from Strelok Pro so you can get an idea of how they will look:
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