First PCP Scope

Hi. I'm new here. I just received my first PCP yesterday. I got the Avenge-x Classic .22. I also ordered the Donnyfl Yokozuna and have a portable compressor on the way. I'm stuck trying to decide on a scope. I'm good with spending up to $350ish. I will only be target shooting and no hunting. My distance will be 75 yards and less. Mostly shooting probably around 35-50 yards. I am currently using a 3x9 Nikon Prostaff on my Hammerli 850 that I took off a rimfire gun, but there isn't any parallax adjustment. I have been looking at the Hawke or Vortex after reading a lot about scopes on this forum. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Bobby
 
Did a test comparison this past summer when I was hunting with Centercut. My Discovery VT-T, a $150 scope was pretty much on par with Mike's $1300 scope. We were both surprised. There are quite a few scopes available now that don't even break the $300 mark yet are absolutely worthwhile. One doesn't have to break the bank to get a really decent scope. Discovery & Vector (Veyron) are 2 I have experience with, less than $250. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them again.
NOTE: There's a Veyron right now in classifieds for $200!
 
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A second on WestHunter. Inexpensive and they work very well. Amazon or ebay sell them direct. Best bang for the buck and good ringsets as well. I jave aquired plenty of more expensive scopes and i keep ending up with these 2 WH scopes.

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First Focal Plane (FFP) means the reticle moves when you change the magnification so it's size and thus the distance between tick marks on the reticle remain the same. If the marks are 1 MOA apart at minimum power they are also 1 MOA apart at the highest power. Very handy if you want to use those tick marks for hold over or to allow for wind. The disadvantage is sometimes the reticle is almost invisible at the lowest powers of the scope.

Second focal plane has the reticle fixed so the tick marks on the reticle change in MOA when you turn the magnification up and down. But the reticle is just as visible at minimum magnification as it is at high magnification. SFP scopes tend to be a little cheaper because their internal mechanisms are simpler. I prefer SFP because I like to target shoot at high power but I want to be able to turn the scope down to minimum power to easily find my targets when hunting/pesting.

My most expensive scope is my Arken EPL-4 6-24x50. If is FFP. I got it for $330 but sometimes it is more expensive. I like my Athlon Talos 6-24 a lot. It is SFP and definitely in your price range. I think the glass is a little better in the Arken but it's about $100 more expensive so it should be. I also like my Primary Arms 4-14 FFP but it isn't a great target scope. Reticle is too thick. But I can see it at 4X. I have a West Hunter 4-16 and it is a good scope for the money but I think there is something to be said for buying a scope from a company known to honor their warranty like Athlon or Arken. I have had no issue with the West Hunter but I am worried they might be like UTG was to me when I had an issue with one of their scopes. I have a Hawke Vantage on my Prod and it is a really nice scope for the money. Out of the scopes I own the Arken is definitely the nicest as long as you don't need to be able to see the reticle quickly and well at 6x.
 
First Focal Plane (FFP) means the reticle moves when you change the magnification so it's size and thus the distance between tick marks on the reticle remain the same. If the marks are 1 MOA apart at minimum power they are also 1 MOA apart at the highest power. Very handy if you want to use those tick marks for hold over or to allow for wind. The disadvantage is sometimes the reticle is almost invisible at the lowest powers of the scope.

Second focal plane has the reticle fixed so the tick marks on the reticle change in MOA when you turn the magnification up and down. But the reticle is just as visible at minimum magnification as it is at high magnification. SFP scopes tend to be a little cheaper because their internal mechanisms are simpler. I prefer SFP because I like to target shoot at high power but I want to be able to turn the scope down to minimum power to easily find my targets when hunting/pesting.

My most expensive scope is my Arken EPL-4 6-24x50. If is FFP. I got it for $330 but sometimes it is more expensive. I like my Athlon Talos 6-24 a lot. It is SFP and definitely in your price range. I think the glass is a little better in the Arken but it's about $100 more expensive so it should be. I also like my Primary Arms 4-14 FFP but it isn't a great target scope. Reticle is too thick. But I can see it at 4X. I have a West Hunter 4-16 and it is a good scope for the money but I think there is something to be said for buying a scope from a company known to honor their warranty like Athlon or Arken. I have had no issue with the West Hunter but I am worried they might be like UTG was to me when I had an issue with one of their scopes. I have a Hawke Vantage on my Prod and it is a really nice scope for the money. Out of the scopes I own the Arken is definitely the nicest as long as you don't need to be able to see the reticle quickly and well at 6x.
Thanks for the detailed response. I will defiantly look into those scopes. I was looking at the Hawke Vantage. I like the parallax knob on the side vs the front element.
 
I'll tell you what,too many people spend too much for an airgun scope,yes indeed the Hawke Vantage is a good buy at a discounted price.
There are others, problem is that most scope sellers, makers, or whatnot have different price ranges, and some of the lower priced ones are crap, go and spent$50 more and you can get a waaaay better scope from the same brand, or manufacturer.Truth be told there are Gangs of good scopes for under $135 .
I also have luck with the Burris scopes that are around $150 scopes...also be aware of AO,it is much better to have that on an airgun scope.
While I am at it think Philippines and Korea and older Japanese made scopes