Fix for Edgun R3M grinding bolt

Hey all

Just some info sharing here. I have an Edgun 3RM that I bought new several years ago.
The rifle performed very well but it never fell into my "daily driver" slot due to the the rear cocking functionality.
After I put a few tins of pellets through it ( a couple years after purchase), the cocking bolt started making a terrible grinding noise and was very rough when pullin back.

I thought maybe it was a rough finish of the bolt bore so I polished it but had no luck.
I called Edgun West for some help. I figured worst case, I'll just order another bolt block.
No luck there! I was informed that there was nothing Edgun West could (or would) do, that the parts were out of production, and there were no service parts available.
I was told to figure it out and fix it myself! Awesome cust service.

Well I finally decided to sell it, but couldnt post it up in good concience without getting it properly fixed first.
After spending some time investigating the source of the scraping, I found it was an unlikely source.
Root cause was the interface of the groove cut into the cocking bolt and the alignment dowel/pin that keeps it properly indexed. See pictures below.
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You can see the shiny spot on the black alignment pin where it was scraping the side of the channel cut into the bottom of the bolt.
My first attempt was to chuck up the pin in the lath and take .010" off to see if the added clearance would fix it. Unfortunately, no luck. See pic below.
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I polished the inside of the bolt "groove" but that didn't help either.
Due to the geometry and forces involve with cocking this gun, there's a lot of force on these surfaces.
The fix ended up being the modification of the locating pin to add a bushing to it for reduced friction.
I turned down the pin and made a corresponding "aluminum bronze" bushing that ended up having the same OD as the original pin.
This worked like a charm! Operation is very smooth and quiet now. Much better than when it was new actually.
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This is a solid fix. I'd argue this is how it should have been made to begin with.

Anyway, I wanted to share this because unfortunately its seems to be a common problem with these and I havent seen this cause (or fix) shared in past posts.

Hope this helps someone.

Brian

BTW...I'll be putting this rifle up for sale on the classifieds soon. I can 100% vouch for this rifle now and its an absolute tack driver! Check out this test target I shot after fixing it. Its 5, 5-shot groups (25 consecutive shots) shot at 50y. Not a single flier! It just pelts the same hole over and over.

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So do you conclude that it was a matter of poor material selection? Some metal combinations don't do well with sliding friction. Looks like some galling started on that cylindrical pin surface.

I've been experimenting with a new bottle of powdered molybdenum disulfate and burnishing it into metal parts to reduce friction instead of using a grease that might cause more drag on some selected sliding parts.

Thanks for sharing and good luck with your sale.
 
So do you conclude that it was a matter of poor material selection? Some metal combinations don't do well with sliding friction. Looks like some galling started on that cylindrical pin surface.

I've been experimenting with a new bottle of powdered molybdenum disulfate and burnishing it into metal parts to reduce friction instead of using a grease that might cause more drag on some selected sliding parts.

Thanks for sharing and good luck with your sale.
Good question. In my case anyway, I think it was the interface angle (lack of parallelism) of the bolt and this locating pin. Ideally, when you tilt the bolt up to pull it back, this pin should be parallel to the groove wall in the bolt. This would ensure a distributed load. On this Edgun, only the top of the pin contacted the bolt groove.
 
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