If you use the small nearly a cube shaped comprssor, mine is a Tuxing, but I see many identical in design just different name and color on Amazon. Specifically those that draw cooling air from the bottom of the unit. The 2 items in the picture will greatly extend the life of the compressor. The Jumper cables could be configured a number of ways , they are an extension cord to charge from a 12 volt dc source and still reach inside where there is conditioned air when humid. I also recommend doubling the size of the wire that physically plug into the unit. That one thing is not critical, it will just allow the negative side of the wires to heat up much less.
The other thing is made from a scrap piece of foundation foam and took ten minutes to make. Anything that will lift the unit off the floor or table to allow unrestricted cooling air to enter the unit will work.
If you have that little Mickey Mouse power unit that’s separate or if your compressor has a 12 volt DC motor powering it I’m talking to you. A sign your unit isn’t making enough DC power is when the fan is on and you turn the compressor switch on and it briefly stops the fan from running. That should never happen, it should not even slow down in speed .Those small power units DO NOT make enough power to run those 12 volt motors. They cause them to run significantly hotter than they should be running. Using a 12 volt power source instead and making sure where ever your cooling air intake is located there’s nothing restricting that intake. Especially those that draw from bottom. This will make it last much longer.
I used jumper cables, any #2 or #4 copper or large sized aluminum wire will make a good extension cord. I just pull up to a window and the 20 ft long jumper cables are more than enough. I didn’t search for an alternate way to convert to 12volt DC inside from standard household current. There may be one, I doubt it’s very cheap though. Those motors that are 300 watts require 29.4 amps from the 12 volt source. An automotive alternator is the excellent source I had already, so this is the most cost effective solution I found. As far as making some kind of stand to get the compressor higher, I took a piece of foam foundation insulation and used a trim router to mill away from directly under cooling air intake holes. Any type of creation that would lift it up to allow more air to enter would work.
If I have repeated this info , I apologize, I’m fairly new to pcp airguns. I could tell using that little compressor was killing it. Heating up way too quickly. I can fill my rifle now that is 600 cc total capacity and the compressor barely reaches 40 degrees C. That’s just putting the last 1.5 bar, I fill from that level to 3 bar. Hopefully some of this was of interest and might help someone out there. Also always learn and respective your compressors duty cycle. I ignored mine once for purposes of determining how hot the unit would get adding appropriately 1.5 bar to 600 cc tank. Otherwise I always respect duty cycle of anything with an electric motor or components. Peace.
The other thing is made from a scrap piece of foundation foam and took ten minutes to make. Anything that will lift the unit off the floor or table to allow unrestricted cooling air to enter the unit will work.
If you have that little Mickey Mouse power unit that’s separate or if your compressor has a 12 volt DC motor powering it I’m talking to you. A sign your unit isn’t making enough DC power is when the fan is on and you turn the compressor switch on and it briefly stops the fan from running. That should never happen, it should not even slow down in speed .Those small power units DO NOT make enough power to run those 12 volt motors. They cause them to run significantly hotter than they should be running. Using a 12 volt power source instead and making sure where ever your cooling air intake is located there’s nothing restricting that intake. Especially those that draw from bottom. This will make it last much longer.
I used jumper cables, any #2 or #4 copper or large sized aluminum wire will make a good extension cord. I just pull up to a window and the 20 ft long jumper cables are more than enough. I didn’t search for an alternate way to convert to 12volt DC inside from standard household current. There may be one, I doubt it’s very cheap though. Those motors that are 300 watts require 29.4 amps from the 12 volt source. An automotive alternator is the excellent source I had already, so this is the most cost effective solution I found. As far as making some kind of stand to get the compressor higher, I took a piece of foam foundation insulation and used a trim router to mill away from directly under cooling air intake holes. Any type of creation that would lift it up to allow more air to enter would work.
If I have repeated this info , I apologize, I’m fairly new to pcp airguns. I could tell using that little compressor was killing it. Heating up way too quickly. I can fill my rifle now that is 600 cc total capacity and the compressor barely reaches 40 degrees C. That’s just putting the last 1.5 bar, I fill from that level to 3 bar. Hopefully some of this was of interest and might help someone out there. Also always learn and respective your compressors duty cycle. I ignored mine once for purposes of determining how hot the unit would get adding appropriately 1.5 bar to 600 cc tank. Otherwise I always respect duty cycle of anything with an electric motor or components. Peace.
