FWB FWB 124 - bent barrel needs replacement or straightening

I was given a beat up 124 back around 1993 or so. The stock was broken at the pistol grip, the barrel had some pitting and missing blueing, but otherwise it was more or less intact. I repaired the stock and had a luthier friend spray a poly finish over it.
Once it was reassembled, I discovered that it shot way high and far left, to the point that the sights ran out of adjustment before getting the gun to zero.
One of my neighbors was a "gun guy", so he and I attempted to straighten the barrel. As I recall it, this involved a pair of V-blocks, a dial indicator and a very large dead-blow hammer.
These efforts met with some modest success, such that with a homemade elevator block under the front sight, and an aftermarket rear aperture sight cranked all the way over, it will shoot within a 1/2" of center at 10 yards, delivering nice little groups. But it ain't right, and I want it fixed.
Any advice or recommendations ?
 
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This rifle's piston was torn off, the worst failure there is. As a result, the barrel bent and the butt cracked. Usually use such rifles for spare parts, there is no point in repairing them.
That seems a little extreme - it actually shoots well, just off to the left a bit. All the internal parts were still in it when I got it, and they're still in there right now, although I have ordered some new seals, a spring and some lube stuff. I did read about bear trapping the other day, and the damage it was in seems consistent with having been fired with the barrel in the cocking position, but it might've been run over by a car, for all I know.
 
That seems a little extreme - it actually shoots well, just off to the left a bit. All the internal parts were still in it when I got it, and they're still in there right now, although I have ordered some new seals, a spring and some lube stuff. I did read about bear trapping the other day, and the damage it was in seems consistent with having been fired with the barrel in the cocking position, but it might've been run over by a car, for all I know.
That's what I meant. The car has nothing to do with it in this case.
 
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This might be of some help to you?
Yessir, that's very helpful, most especially the insight that the bend is likely right at the juncture with the breech block. Thanks ! We have some fancy measuring tools in the metrology department where I work, and a granite table with a dead flat surface. Also a computer controlled hydraulic press, which can be set to a precise deflection, or a precise amount of force. I imagine I can do a decent job of this, much better than the hammer method used before.
 
Go to Look at gta and look up nced and his bender . It pretty simple to make up .

Even simpler ...
maxresdefault-3093214318.jpg
 
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Go to Lowe's ke gta and look up nced qnd his bender . It pretty simple to make up .

Even simpler ...
View attachment 529168
And here I'm thinking these guns are precision tools ... guess I need to recalibrate my sensibilities. Thanks for the reality check. I have a truck and a hammer, so I'm good to go.
 
And here I'm thinking these guns are precision tools ... guess I need to recalibrate my sensibilities. Thanks for the reality check. I have a truck and a hammer, so I'm good to go.
Lol... Forked tree works as good . In the end it's stright and hitting in good reason..

Naa.. there a lot on it snd contraptions used to tweak it back stright .

https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/09/bending-airgun-barrels-part-4/

Just find a way used around the web your able to easy do for you .

Nced tool in this bender thread



Drill press
th-1516328544.jpg

Skys da limit on a way .
 
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The bend from firing with the barrel open is indeed usually right at the block. I have straightened two so far quite easily by simply clamping the barrel flat to the bench and pushing the action/stock in the needed direction. Fancier block methods are good for curing factory problems but bends at the block want to get back where they were. I have to wonder if your helpful neighbor might’ve complicated that one just a little. Nothing that can’t be fixed though.
 
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A barrel bending jig...

20240824_082219.jpg


In the vice set up for a bend to the left.

20240824_080712.jpg


It's as easy as that. Anyone with a piece of hardwood and a bench vice can do it.

 
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If this barrel got whipped by the gun being triggered the bend is at the block. The block should be held in a vise with soft jaws and you can bend a 124 barrel back by hand. Put the iron sights back on and clamp the action in your vise. An optically centered scope should line up to where the sights aim.
124's are known to have fork alignment issues. Look to see if the barrel is straight to the tube while you're at it. Measure the fork width at both ends to see if it's sprung.
 
If this barrel got whipped by the gun being triggered the bend is at the block. The block should be held in a vise with soft jaws and you can bend a 124 barrel back by hand. Put the iron sights back on and clamp the action in your vise. An optically centered scope should line up to where the sights aim.
124's are known to have fork alignment issues. Look to see if the barrel is straight to the tube while you're at it. Measure the fork width at both ends to see if it's sprung.
This ☝️is the best way IMHO. Removing the action from the stock. The hand bending is much more controlled than a hammer. I use a straight edge along the top of the barrel, and extending on top of the breech block to get a pretty close alignment.
Only takes a few minutes.
Have fun.
 
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Thanks for all the insights and suggestions. I used a C-clamp. a couple bits of scrap hardwood, a V block and my desk to achieve these results. Gun was reassembled with new seals, a plastic liner around the spring and lubed appropriately.
Front sight still has a riser block under it, but the rear is arbitrarily set at center of adjustment both elevation and windage.
The two "flyers" to the left were shots 1 and 2, the remaining cluster is comprised of 15 subsequent shots, no adjustments made. I got real lucky.17 rounds.jpgmy range.jpg
 
Thanks for all the insights and suggestions. I used a C-clamp. a couple bits of scrap hardwood, a V block and my desk to achieve these results. Gun was reassembled with new seals, a plastic liner around the spring and lubed appropriately.
Front sight still has a riser block under it, but the rear is arbitrarily set at center of adjustment both elevation and windage.
The two "flyers" to the left were shots 1 and 2, the remaining cluster is comprised of 15 subsequent shots, no adjustments made. I got real lucky.View attachment 530399View attachment 530400
I rarely like stocks other than my figured wood , but that stock is AWSOME.
 
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I rarely like stocks other than my figured wood , but that stock is AWSOME.
It was broken when I got it, so I repaired it and stripped it down to the bare white wood. Handed it off to a guitar maker friend and asked him to shoot a nice poly coat on it next time he was doing a guitar. Well, the next axe he built was a three color sunburst Strat, so this is what I got. Coincidentally, he finished a banjo for me later on, and its got the same colors on it. He's got a sense of humor, all right.