FWB FWB 300s Stock Finished

[TomJ]

Steve,
Thanks for posting how you refinished your stock. It‘s really helpful to those of us who want to refinish a stock for the first time. Any suggestions on what, if anything, to use in place of the Behlen’s dye? Thanks again, Tom

 

[Nitrocrushr]

Steve,
Thanks for posting how you refinished your stock. It‘s really helpful to those of us who want to refinish a stock for the first time. Any suggestions on what, if anything, to use in place of the Behlen’s dye? Thanks again, Tom

Hi Tom, I haven’t researched a replacement for the Behlen dye yet. I was disappointed to see it had been discontinued. Such a nice product, and can add deep coloring to surfaces where conventional stains fall short.

Steve

 

[JohnTaylor]

Steve,
Thanks for posting how you refinished your stock. It‘s really helpful to those of us who want to refinish a stock for the first time. Any suggestions on what, if anything, to use in place of the Behlen’s dye? Thanks again, Tom

Try Mohawk …their line of ultra penetrating stains are prepared dyes…they have a good selection of color choices, they are great to work with, and no min purchase. Good luck John

 

[Nitrocrushr]

Try Mohawk …their line of ultra penetrating stains are prepared dyes…they have a good selection of color choices, they are great to work with, and no min purchase. Good luck John

John, Thanks for the tip

 

[wijib]

I completed the stock on my FWB 300s today. Someone had loaded it up with Tru-Oil. There were some sanding marks and thin spots in the stain as well. Also, the Tru-Oil must have been applied without removing the action because there was Tru-Oil smeared all over the bluing. The bluing is all cleaned up now and stock redone.

Other than that, it is a very nice rifle with original box, packaging and paperwork.


Steve

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Very nice job. The FWB 300 deserves the TLC you've given it. Metalwork looks nice as well.

 

[1BadDart]

Great job!

 

[olde grunt]

I love my FWB 300SU target. I plan on doing the same thing to it this winter. As a trained violin maker and having a masters degree in fine arts wood working I commend you on your work.

 

[Vana2]

Thanks!

I stripped all Tru-oil using Denatured alcohol. I then removed the remaining factory finish using 220 grit, followed by finishing sanding with 400 grit. There were still some areas showing sanding marks, so I actually worked up to 2000 grit to gently work out the sanding marks. When sanding was complete, I cleaned off the sanding dust using compressed air, followed by a wipe down with denatured alcohol.

Finish applied was as follows, and in the order listed below;

Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner
Minwax oil-based gel stain (Walnut)
After this had 24 hours to dry, I then applied Behlen Solar Lux Dye (American Walnut)
Stock was then sealed with 4-5 coats of Maccari's Royal London Oil with 24 hour curing time between each coat
After 4 days of final curing, I buffed the finish using Maccari's Stock Mud to take away the high gloss and to blend the finish
A Protective coat of wood wax applied as a final step

Unfortunately the Behlen Solar Lux Dye is no longer made. I still have a 1/2 bottle of the dye as well as the Reducer and Conditioner. It seems to last forever as not much is used on a gunstock.

Steve

Nice job on the stock! Thanks for sharing your finishing methodology.

Refinished mine as well - still had the original factory finished so it was easy to deal with. There were a couple of dents that steamed out to be invisible when done.

I like to use thinned (to water viscosity) gloss Polyurethane as a sealer. Then build up coats with the poly thinned to milk viscosity lightly steel-wooled with 0000 between coats. The final coat is either left at full gloss (on target & bench guns) or matted to the desired level using pumice.

I've scoped my FWB 300 (have a FWB 603 for 10 meter shooting) and use it for plinking and light pesting. Planning to make a curly maple "sport stock" for it.

Cheers!

 

[dslpwr]

Nice refinishing work. Thanks for the explanation of the refinishing process.