Awesome thanks a bunch guys. I did order an external filter with the pump also. I should be set to shoot it then when it comes. Super excited. Thanks for all the advice. See myself indulging in this forum a lot in the future.
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Fx crown hand pump
- Thread starter TigOleBityz
- Start date
I second what @beerthief recommended, don't let the reservoir get too low before topping off. Otherwise the amount of labor gets excessive. Also, don't run the hand pump too fast or more than 5 min at a time to allow the pump seals and you to cool off. Take a breather and pump in multiple short sessions. Make sure to pull the pump rod all the way upward to its stop without rushing on each stroke to maximize air throughput.
It helps to dab a small amount of silicone grease on the outside of the main pump tube every few sessions. You can use common automotive spark plug dielectric silicone grease or danco silicone plumbing grease frome the home store.
Feinwerk
It helps to dab a small amount of silicone grease on the outside of the main pump tube every few sessions. You can use common automotive spark plug dielectric silicone grease or danco silicone plumbing grease frome the home store.
Feinwerk
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Hi Feinwerk, im new too and I’m curious. how can one find out if there is moisture in the reservoir, and how does one get rid of the moisture from the reservoir?
I fully understand best is to avoid moisture entering in the first place. Also im sure there is no moisture in mine yet (its new). But i am curious what the methods are.
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D
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I don't do the compressor route personally. A Crown will be a hard pump by hand.
Handpumping will bring moisture. They need oring replacement often.
Compressors have breakdowns a lot unless you baby them or buy once cry once (and even then they break).
Tanks are easy, but finding a full station sometimes is hard.
The good news? You can always switch if you don't like your current route.
Best of luck,
Atlas
Handpumping will bring moisture. They need oring replacement often.
Compressors have breakdowns a lot unless you baby them or buy once cry once (and even then they break).
Tanks are easy, but finding a full station sometimes is hard.
The good news? You can always switch if you don't like your current route.
Best of luck,
Atlas
Last edited by a moderator:
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I have only confirmed this once or twice while disassembling one of my pcp's for service and noticing some unusual residue and the beginnings of corrosion on internal parts on one of my rifles. I don't know of a real good test. Perhaps dry firing and pointing the muzzle at a clean surface, and then examining for deposited moisture?
I have also wondered if collected water droplets could be blown out of a pcp by dry firing several times in a row while holding the muzzle straight up. I have never seen or read about this being done as a preventive measure. Seems like under the right conditions it could work and expelled moisture would be visible.
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Definitely watch AEAC’s video before Patch Worming. He has some very good advice on not getting Ballistol where you don’t want it to go. You will most likely also need a McDonalds tubular coffee stir to stick in the muzzle to aid the Patch Worm in exiting the barrel. You’ll understand why the first time you thread the Patch Worm in the rifle. Make sure you remove the moderator first if you have one. Order extra Patch Worm patches too, you’ll eventually need more. And use a sharp scratch awl to make just a bit of a starter hole to get the pointy end of the Patch Worm started through it.
Randy
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I will say I bought the crown as my first pcp in 2017 and a china hand pump ..I once shot the crown down to a 100 bar...it took over 500 hand pumps to get back to 250 bar...tuffer the closer I got to 250 bar...bought a new f10 used it once..no way for me ..some like it,used nitro for a year...bought a coltri compressor..buy quality cry once..you will be better off,and great choice on the crown.
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