Well next week will tell !!!
I plan to take step pics as I work to conquer this prized operation !!
I plan to take step pics as I work to conquer this prized operation !!
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FX Crown Trigger upgrade ??
- Thread starter Fred56
- Start date
Your point is well taken. FX creates a first stage by the position of the sear on the trigger roll. It works, as far as the shooter's perception of the first stage travel, its stop, and the release of the shot. But, the way it feels, and what it is actually doing, is where the difference lies between it and a conventional two-stage trigger, of which there are very few in the air gun world. A true two-stage trigger decreases the second stage sear engagement, simultaneous with the take-up of the first stage travel. Here is my thinking. Virtually all high-end air rifle two-stage triggers can be adjusted to yield a very good feel, and a precise release, and that's great. But I never, ever, trust one to be safe by merely engaging the safety. If I am moving with a loaded air rifle, it is de-cocked. There are a few exceptions, and it all gets tedious to discuss in a forum, but basically, they do not offer the safety feature of the original two-stage design.
Ed
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So Glen - I see on your trigger that you moved it towards the back from its original set up, was there an advantage to this and or what was your reason ??!!
I have dry fitted the trigger and see how to go forward with the upgrade - just waiting for the spring and screws, they should be here by weeks end. Next will be to figure out what screw doors what !!!!
thanks for the help !!
I have dry fitted the trigger and see how to go forward with the upgrade - just waiting for the spring and screws, they should be here by weeks end. Next will be to figure out what screw doors what !!!!
thanks for the help !!
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I'll jump in with a short answer. The main purpose in the movable trigger blade is simply comfort, establishing the best length of pull for the shooter. But, it also gets into the geometry of how the trigger works, the multiplier effect of leverage. The further the trigger blade is from the fulcrum (pivot point), the less force required to move it. It will also change the length of movement in the first stage. But, these are very small incremental changes, and may not be noticeable to the shooter. Ernest Rowe's video discusses the placement of the adjustment grub screws, which might be helpful. Plan on spending some time with it, as it is a bit tedious.
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Trigger post is in stock location, just lowered the blade a bit and turned slightly left as I shoot left.
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Ok - I’m back !!! Got all the parts - did a great task of changing out the triggers. Took pics and all 
now the results ;
first stage is clean and short with a good rest action. Second stage I need my friends pull scale to see what I have, and there is my stop point - what screw is the second stage ????
I see Ernest video but it didn’t cover the second stage screw too good and I can’t find that one with the spring changes - I’ve seen it one time flipping all around a ways back, but no luck this time !!
Now the shocker - I got the Crown all back together and did a few shot, well to my surprise “no safety “ nope - doesn’t work !!!!
so I’ll have to go back in and see what’s not right, I fear the distance with the match trigger sitting up higher may be my issue !!
getting time to work on the gun is my issue these days - so I’ll update when I have it opened up again !!
I will also look at relocating the trigger bar back away from the front end and use the last hole as Ernest does.
now the results ;
first stage is clean and short with a good rest action. Second stage I need my friends pull scale to see what I have, and there is my stop point - what screw is the second stage ????
I see Ernest video but it didn’t cover the second stage screw too good and I can’t find that one with the spring changes - I’ve seen it one time flipping all around a ways back, but no luck this time !!
Now the shocker - I got the Crown all back together and did a few shot, well to my surprise “no safety “ nope - doesn’t work !!!!
so I’ll have to go back in and see what’s not right, I fear the distance with the match trigger sitting up higher may be my issue !!
getting time to work on the gun is my issue these days - so I’ll update when I have it opened up again !!
I will also look at relocating the trigger bar back away from the front end and use the last hole as Ernest does.
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One big note to those Crown owners that try this - check the trigger blade when assembling - raise it up a little to clear the stock !!! I discovered this when trying to reassemble and things weren’t going in so well !!!
found the blade punched into the stock just a little bit !!!
reset the blade up a bit and fwala !!
found the blade punched into the stock just a little bit !!!
reset the blade up a bit and fwala !!
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The three middle screws all make adjustments to the second stage to my understanding. Will take some fiddling to get it how you want it.
There's no one simple answer to my knowledge.
There's no one simple answer to my knowledge.
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Based on my installation, this is absolutely correct. Anyone looking for traditional adjustments to spring tension or sear engagement will be disappointed. By fiddling with the grub screw attached to the wedge-shaped piece, you can alter the position of the sear on the trigger roll, which is kind of analogous to a sear engagement adjustment, at least in the way it effects the feel of the release. By playing with the position (hole chosen) of the other grub screws, and their depth, you will feel a difference in release weight, but it is modest. I assume you could make a more substantial change by using a different spring. My release weight now is between 6 and 7 ounces, about what I wanted, so I didn't mess with it any further. I would like to have a bit more weight in the first stage, but honestly, I was about worn out with it by the time I got it right, and wasn't in the mood for more experimentation. It has proven consistent and safe.
Fred, you mentioned that your safety is not working. This may be a different design than the Royale, but I had an issue as well. I discovered (through a lack of instructions), that a longer grub screw was in my package, and it was needed in order to make contact with the safety adjustment screw on the rifle. As I recall, it screws into a threaded hole in the rear of the trigger bar. As with other aspects of FX design, this trigger works well enough if you get it installed correctly, but it contains too many small parts, which always presents a potential reliability problem. The trigger should come with instructions and pictures. The next best thing is Ernest Rowe's video, which I found helpful, especially by pausing it at certain points to view the position of something.
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Well it’s a NO GO on the trigger upgrade for the FX Crown Continuum. The safety action will not function with the Match Trigger out of the Royal or Boss.
in this first photo the safety is off - note the distance from end tip of the shear bar to the flat surface of the safety bar.
The second photo shows the selector in Safe.
you can do the there is still much open space above the safety bar, I did not want to go off into that much modification to get the safety to work. I do not think you would be able to transfers the safety pieces from the Royal or Boss to get thing working.
MSI back to the basic and do a little fine tuning and be happy with that !!!
Thank you to all who chimed in and I offered from their upgrades.
in this first photo the safety is off - note the distance from end tip of the shear bar to the flat surface of the safety bar.
The second photo shows the selector in Safe.
you can do the there is still much open space above the safety bar, I did not want to go off into that much modification to get the safety to work. I do not think you would be able to transfers the safety pieces from the Royal or Boss to get thing working.
MSI back to the basic and do a little fine tuning and be happy with that !!!
Thank you to all who chimed in and I offered from their upgrades.
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So when you put the trigger box onto your pics the screw doesn't reach that bar? Even if you screw it in deeper?
What about a longer screw? The screw that's supposed to contact that is at the very back of the plate that the trigger post attaches to. You realize that right?
This screw once fully assembled should make contact with that safety bar. Pointing at the screw here.
What about a longer screw? The screw that's supposed to contact that is at the very back of the plate that the trigger post attaches to. You realize that right?
This screw once fully assembled should make contact with that safety bar. Pointing at the screw here.
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Well - that’s the things that’s so different from the Crown & others - the safety in the
Crown is just a round pin that is flat on one had - the curved part is tall enough to stop the shear bar on the Crown - location is far to the back and the Crowns shear is longer one piece and sits lower into the housing.
In the second picture the Crown trigger unit, the far screw to the left is the safety screw it adjust up and down to contact the round shaft of the selector. So you might see that the new unit sits way to high and doesn’t have a screw adjustment that location.
Now I suppose you could work it out if you really really really wanted that match trigger on there. Just not me !! As the one comment said - he got one to work but it wasn’t pretty !!
hope this helps !!!
Crown is just a round pin that is flat on one had - the curved part is tall enough to stop the shear bar on the Crown - location is far to the back and the Crowns shear is longer one piece and sits lower into the housing.
In the second picture the Crown trigger unit, the far screw to the left is the safety screw it adjust up and down to contact the round shaft of the selector. So you might see that the new unit sits way to high and doesn’t have a screw adjustment that location.
Now I suppose you could work it out if you really really really wanted that match trigger on there. Just not me !! As the one comment said - he got one to work but it wasn’t pretty !!
hope this helps !!!
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New setup
Look at the boss diagram fred please. See part 5?
That's the screw I'm talking about, it is threaded into part 6.
That screw goes through part 4. ( theres a hole through it )
Then goes past part 12 (in your first pic)
Then makes contact to your crown safety.
Does screwing part 5 on the new trigger in deeper make the safety work? Yes or no.
Old Crown setup
Part 5 makes contact with the safety when flipped on.
The exact same thing is happening it simply looks different.
Look at the boss diagram fred please. See part 5?
That's the screw I'm talking about, it is threaded into part 6.
That screw goes through part 4. ( theres a hole through it )
Then goes past part 12 (in your first pic)
Then makes contact to your crown safety.
Does screwing part 5 on the new trigger in deeper make the safety work? Yes or no.
Old Crown setup
Part 5 makes contact with the safety when flipped on.
The exact same thing is happening it simply looks different.
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Here is a great shot of the Boss with its safety! Note the screw as well the handle selection set up.
Crown is total different. My Continuum anyways ! No screw on selector shaft.
Crown is total different. My Continuum anyways ! No screw on selector shaft.
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Here is a great shot of the Boss with its safety! Note the screw as well the handle selection set up.
Crown is total different. My Continuum anyways ! No screw on selector shaft.
Instead of a screw it's that bar that comes up right? Do you think a screw cares if its hitting another screw or a piece of aluminum? It's doing the same thing, preventing it from traveling more.
In your first pics you can even see marks where a screw hits it when the safety is on. That's exactly where the new trigger long screw will contact. Same place!!
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Have you tried screwing part 5 on the new trigger in deeper? Yes or no.
Either screwing that in more will
A: Make the safety work again
B: Make you realize that you need a longer screw like ELH suggested a few days ago he said it came in the bag.
Thats all.
Either screwing that in more will
A: Make the safety work again
B: Make you realize that you need a longer screw like ELH suggested a few days ago he said it came in the bag.
Thats all.
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Ok - no longer screw in my package ! ;(
I think I know how to look and see the alignment of the adjustments to the safety in the Crown .
Im not sure just now and will need to go back and check it all. I’m thinking the safety location, although the same in the FX block, aligns differently when dealing with the match trigger. I just will need some time to get on it, and time is my enemy these days. But I’ll get back to it and do an update.
I do thank you Glen for all the data and input. Getting closer with every post !!!
I think I know how to look and see the alignment of the adjustments to the safety in the Crown .
Im not sure just now and will need to go back and check it all. I’m thinking the safety location, although the same in the FX block, aligns differently when dealing with the match trigger. I just will need some time to get on it, and time is my enemy these days. But I’ll get back to it and do an update.
I do thank you Glen for all the data and input. Getting closer with every post !!!
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Ok - no longer screw in my package ! ;(
I think I know how to look and see the alignment of the adjustments to the safety in the Crown .
Im not sure just now and will need to go back and check it all. I’m thinking the safety location, although the same in the FX block, aligns differently when dealing with the match trigger. I just will need some time to get on it, and time is my enemy these days. But I’ll get back to it and do an update.
I do thank you Glen for all the data and input. Getting closer with every post !!!
So you tried screwing part 5 in more? From the pic looks like it has room to go in deeper. Anyways you're welcome let us know please.
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Ok - found the culprit !!!
many pics - so just bounce around them As best to understand !!! Also refer back to trigger diagrams post earlier to reference part numbers.
1/ with the match trigger shear blade # 12 is just a few mm too long, it blocks the screw from coming down to the safety selection shaft. ( first photo with big thumb) So one would need to shave that and I’m not into this mod enough to do it. the safety screw # 5 (10mm) needs to be much longer then the one supplied, (Last photo with screw removed to see length) I would guess say 20mm. One can always cut file or shave a little off of too long. again - not my desire.
* two phots with yellow tape on wrench shows the depth difference to the safety - it also shows the angle I had to make to get past the shear plate to reach the safety. Other photos show reference of safety shaft to stock trigger piece as well the match trigger assembly.
2/ when the safety screw (match trigger #6) is in place - it would need to be rounded to Accommodate the safety flat edge when selected between S&F.
otherwise you may not be able to change back to safe once relieved. Picture a circle
️ shaft that is cut in half and you want to turn it under a flat screw protruding into the circumstance area of the circle, won’t let you do it !!
* the two next to the last photo show the safety shaft as it’s in safe and fire / you may be able to tell the flat surface in fire mode and the curved top of the circumference of shaft in safe mode. No adjustment screw as per the Boss or Royal safety.
SO GIVEN AL THAT !!! I’m going to pull out of the trigger business and move on to an air tank to allow longer shooting periods !!!
Be glad to add or help anyone who with an FX Crown Continuum .25 that feels that are up to doing a match trigger upgrade !!
on the lighter side for shooting - I’ll just get to use my buds Anshootzs. ( I spell English - you know the one !!)
thanks again for all the input and help !! I feel I gave a good shot (pun intended ) so time to move on !!!
many pics - so just bounce around them As best to understand !!! Also refer back to trigger diagrams post earlier to reference part numbers.
1/ with the match trigger shear blade # 12 is just a few mm too long, it blocks the screw from coming down to the safety selection shaft. ( first photo with big thumb) So one would need to shave that and I’m not into this mod enough to do it. the safety screw # 5 (10mm) needs to be much longer then the one supplied, (Last photo with screw removed to see length) I would guess say 20mm. One can always cut file or shave a little off of too long. again - not my desire.
* two phots with yellow tape on wrench shows the depth difference to the safety - it also shows the angle I had to make to get past the shear plate to reach the safety. Other photos show reference of safety shaft to stock trigger piece as well the match trigger assembly.
2/ when the safety screw (match trigger #6) is in place - it would need to be rounded to Accommodate the safety flat edge when selected between S&F.
otherwise you may not be able to change back to safe once relieved. Picture a circle
️ shaft that is cut in half and you want to turn it under a flat screw protruding into the circumstance area of the circle, won’t let you do it !! * the two next to the last photo show the safety shaft as it’s in safe and fire / you may be able to tell the flat surface in fire mode and the curved top of the circumference of shaft in safe mode. No adjustment screw as per the Boss or Royal safety.
SO GIVEN AL THAT !!! I’m going to pull out of the trigger business and move on to an air tank to allow longer shooting periods !!!
Be glad to add or help anyone who with an FX Crown Continuum .25 that feels that are up to doing a match trigger upgrade !!
on the lighter side for shooting - I’ll just get to use my buds Anshootzs. ( I spell English - you know the one !!)
thanks again for all the input and help !! I feel I gave a good shot (pun intended ) so time to move on !!!
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