FX FX Crown, turn it down to how much?

Hi
I am trying to find out how much I can turn a full-speed FX Crown down.

I will be hunting small birds outside and inside buildings, so I need to be able to turn the power down when shooting inside.
I do not want to damage the inside of the building if I miss a shot :)

Any youtube videos or other info on the topic you can recommend?
 
Do you mean by setting the reg or by using the transfer port and power wheel to adjust the velocity? Also, what barrel length and caliber are you shooting?
Is it easilly adjusted via the front and rear adjusters on the left side of the gun?

I plan to by a Crown with 500mm, in .22.
It is restricted to 10J when I purchase it.
 
Last edited:
For any Americans reading this, a 'full-speed' Crown is well above 10J. A 10J gun should have a nice low regulator setting. You should be able to halve that power using hammer and transfer port alone.

Also shoot wadcutter pellets indoors. much less tendency to embed.
I will need to check out the wadcutters. Thanks.

The full speed one is 73J.

So by using the adjusters how low can get it? 20J
 
pcpSWE,

10 Joule is 7.5 FPE, which is HW30 spring piston air rifle territory. Close to ideal for short range indoor small bird pesting, especially with wadcutter pellets.

If that seems too potent for your purposes, then choking the transfer port adjuster way down seems like the most effective way to reduce velocity, that should not increase velocity spread. Yes, you can reduce the regulator settings, but if you go too far down, getting the pellets to accelerate consistently from a "standing start" might become more difficult. That said, CO2 "airguns" run at about 800 PSI, depending on ambient temperature, so that should not be too low. You will just need to experiment, while using a chronograph to see what is going on.

If you don't have a chrono, shoot groups at a meaningful distance for your purpose. Perhaps 10 or 20 yards or meters. That should show vertical stringing, if you have too much velocity variation at ranges you care about. The same setting may show major vertical stringing at 50 yards or meters, but as even 10 Joule is too low for that distance, we can assume you consider 50 meter results outside the operating envelope.

Other than turning the TP adjuster down to strangle airflow, there is a setting for how far the valve opens. Set that way down also. That restricts flow and valve dwell.

The hammer spring adjuster should "match" the regulator setting. If you have two regulators, it is the second one that sets the power - assuming it is set to a lower pressure than the first one. There is supposed to be a step in reg pressure between the first and second that is not too large or too small for optimal consistency. UK sub 12 FPE (16 J) tuning tactics are closer to relevant, than those for "FAC" or full power.

Many FX PCPs have a brass part that contains two transfer ports. By removing this part and flipping it over to the other TP, power for pellets or "slugs" may be optimized. Some of these FX TP parts have only one transfer port machined. If your Crown has one of those, you can drill your own ultra small TP in the blank side, and use that. A hole of perhaps 2.5 mm diameter might allow you to use a reasonable regulator setting for consistency, while choking the flow once the pellet starts moving to limit power. Starting small at perhaps 2 mm with this custom TP, trying it, and then enlarging it if required seems the smart strategy; as one cannot put metal back. The first video below shows this customizable FX TP. Just make sure to deburr the new TP holes; especially on the inside, so pellets will not be damages by sliding over the hole on loading.

The second video shows tuning for low power, although; "low power" may be relative; depending on caliber. What caliber is your Crown? If .177 then somewhere between 500 and 600 FPS should do what you need it to do. Think of optimizing accuracy for Olympic 10 meter target competition, and the typical velocities they operate at. They are limited to sub 600 FPS muzzle velocity to reduce wear on their scoring target system, and reduce lead dust; apparently. Less than 500 FPS muzzle velocity, and you may not have the penetration you need to kill pest birds humanely at 10 meters - although I am sure many have been taken using 400 FPS airguns. All this assumes a 7 or 8 grain wadcutter pellet. Obviously, it is the pellet velocity at the target that predicts its capability, rather than the muzzle.

I am going to suggest that you aim for the 5 to 6 FPE (7 or 8 J) range, as 5.5 FPE is where 10 meter target shooters "live". Also, this is the power level where the flat side of a restrained (not free to move) steel soup can is still punctured at short range with a .177. This might be marginal, if you have to stretch to 20 meters, though; so some experimentation will be in order.






The last video's "channel" had a lot of info on low power tuning, meaning sub 16 Joule. I was looking for specific videos about tuning twin reg FX PCPs, but so far have not found the ones I remember.


The video below about how much power is enough might be useful, too:

 
pcpSWE,

10 Joule is 7.5 FPE, which is HW30 spring piston air rifle territory. Close to ideal for short range indoor small bird pesting, especially with wadcutter pellets.

If that seems too potent for your purposes, then choking the transfer port adjuster way down seems like the most effective way to reduce velocity, that should not increase velocity spread. Yes, you can reduce the regulator settings, but if you go too far down, getting the pellets to accelerate consistently from a "standing start" might become more difficult. That said, CO2 "airguns" run at about 800 PSI, depending on ambient temperature, so that should not be too low. You will just need to experiment, while using a chronograph to see what is going on.

If you don't have a chrono, shoot groups at a meaningful distance for your purpose. Perhaps 10 or 20 yards or meters. That should show vertical stringing, if you have too much velocity variation at ranges you care about. The same setting may show major vertical stringing at 50 yards or meters, but as even 10 Joule is too low for that distance, we can assume you consider 50 meter results outside the operating envelope.

Other than turning the TP adjuster down to strangle airflow, there is a setting for how far the valve opens. Set that way down also. That restricts flow and valve dwell.

The hammer spring adjuster should "match" the regulator setting. If you have two regulators, it is the second one that sets the power - assuming it is set to a lower pressure than the first one. There is supposed to be a step in reg pressure between the first and second that is not too large or too small for optimal consistency. UK sub 12 FPE (16 J) tuning tactics are closer to relevant, than those for "FAC" or full power.

Many FX PCPs have a brass part that contains two transfer ports. By removing this part and flipping it over to the other TP, power for pellets or "slugs" may be optimized. Some of these FX TP parts have only one transfer port machined. If your Crown has one of those, you can drill your own ultra small TP in the blank side, and use that. A hole of perhaps 2.5 mm diameter might allow you to use a reasonable regulator setting for consistency, while choking the flow once the pellet starts moving to limit power. Starting small at perhaps 2 mm with this custom TP, trying it, and then enlarging it if required seems the smart strategy; as one cannot put metal back. The first video below shows this customizable FX TP. Just make sure to deburr the new TP holes; especially on the inside, so pellets will not be damages by sliding over the hole on loading.

The second video shows tuning for low power, although; "low power" may be relative; depending on caliber. What caliber is your Crown? If .177 then somewhere between 500 and 600 FPS should do what you need it to do. Think of optimizing accuracy for Olympic 10 meter target competition, and the typical velocities they operate at. They are limited to sub 600 FPS muzzle velocity to reduce wear on their scoring target system, and reduce lead dust; apparently. Less than 500 FPS muzzle velocity, and you may not have the penetration you need to kill pest birds humanely at 10 meters - although I am sure many have been taken using 400 FPS airguns. All this assumes a 7 or 8 grain wadcutter pellet. Obviously, it is the pellet velocity at the target that predicts its capability, rather than the muzzle.

I am going to suggest that you aim for the 5 to 6 FPE (7 or 8 J) range, as 5.5 FPE is where 10 meter target shooters "live". Also, this is the power level where the flat side of a restrained (not free to move) steel soup can is still punctured at short range with a .177. This might be marginal, if you have to stretch to 20 meters, though; so some experimentation will be in order.






The last video's "channel" had a lot of info on low power tuning, meaning sub 16 Joule. I was looking for specific videos about tuning twin reg FX PCPs, but so far have not found the ones I remember.


The video below about how much power is enough might be useful, too:

Thank you for the education.

Sounds like a compromise is not possible. I would rather go for the full speed and have a great outdoor gun. The few times I have to do a indoor shot I have to make sure I hit the bird and not anything else 😀👍

But by using the adjusters on the left side can i go down from 72J to 40-50J so it is not super powerfull? (indoor shot)
 
Well, the basic power foundation setting is the regulator pressure. Reduce that to reduce power, and optimize the hammer spring setting for consistency.


Just how low do you want to go? 10 or 20 J? 16 J is 12 FPE, which is what the UK is restricted to. Even that may be a bit high for indoor pest shooting, depending on the structure and surfaces that might be impacted. If you take a 10 J Swedish spec Crown, then add the full power kit, then want less than 10 J, that seems a little "backwards". If you want less than 10 J, start with a 10 J Crown, and detune it a little for indoor use.

Or get a second airgun for indoor use, and keep the Crown for outdoor use :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: pcpSWE
Well, the basic power foundation setting is the regulator pressure. Reduce that to reduce power, and optimize the hammer spring setting for consistency.


Just how low do you want to go? 10 or 20 J? 16 J is 12 FPE, which is what the UK is restricted to. Even that may be a bit high for indoor pest shooting, depending on the structure and surfaces that might be impacted. If you take a 10 J Swedish spec Crown, then add the full power kit, then want less than 10 J, that seems a little "backwards". If you want less than 10 J, start with a 10 J Crown, and detune it a little for indoor use.

Or get a second airgun for indoor use, and keep the Crown for outdoor use :)
Sorry for the stupid questions I am learning.

I want to do some standing fast outdoor shooting on cans and plink targets.

Small bird pest control, and if possible tune down a bit and do indoor pest control.

Now I am shooting an Webley Tracker.. 22
Looking for accuracy, better trigger and fast reloads.
 
Here is the kit that unlocks it to full speed.
I am located in Sweden.

Hey, if everything else isn't enough, Huma has a low pressure range regulator. I don't know which one would fit your specific Crown (gen 2 or gen 3 most likely).
From my experience, you have to remove the current regulator and measure it to know.

This the link for the Gen 3

Screenshot_20240422_170704_Chrome.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: dgeesaman
I turned my reg to 100 tried it at 80 and 90 and stuck a pellet in the barrel a couple of times turned it to low and turned the hammer spring all the way down an i was trying to get to 6 FPE and couldnt do it all i could get was like 7.4 FPE. The only way i could have did it was to get a low power huma maybe but when i went to 90 bad new for me i actually cleared it by cranking the reg to 140 and it blew out with the first shot but then had to do everything over again.