As FX moved to brass piston bodies for regulator, I also made a couple but with peek seat.
Umair Bhaur
Umair Bhaur
Tuning FX Impact brass piston with peek seat
- Thread starter mubhaur
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Hello mubhaur ji
I am a avid viewer to your videos , that are quite informative and offer logical and practical solutions
I have a fx maverick and am facing an issue towards velocity variations in the first few shot after the
gun is lying ideal or after change of magazine . any solution can be offered to such an issue , i have seen
your video on fx impact , but in maverick its the AMP regulator ,at both stages .
secondly some issue are there in Extreme spread and as an option i am going to replace the delrin piston with the brass one (the latest being offered by fx)to maintain cosistency in pressure in second stage . and faster refresh rate of amp regulator
Any views for above two issues are welcome
thanx
ashish
I am a avid viewer to your videos , that are quite informative and offer logical and practical solutions
I have a fx maverick and am facing an issue towards velocity variations in the first few shot after the
gun is lying ideal or after change of magazine . any solution can be offered to such an issue , i have seen
your video on fx impact , but in maverick its the AMP regulator ,at both stages .
secondly some issue are there in Extreme spread and as an option i am going to replace the delrin piston with the brass one (the latest being offered by fx)to maintain cosistency in pressure in second stage . and faster refresh rate of amp regulator
Any views for above two issues are welcome
thanx
ashish
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I would love to help you but in my country very few users bought Maverick yet. None came to me to inspect and find out pros and cones.
Hence the gun about which I don't know inside out, I accept my lack of knowledge to suggest something.
Yes the brass pistons offered by FX have a bit bigger air hole. That may help quicker recovery of regulators.
Regards,
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I understand , as and when you come across Fx maverick pls evaluate .
Just one more query regarding Fx impact
For delivering 900 fps pellets , what is pressure your impact is operating at ?
Just one more query regarding Fx impact
For delivering 900 fps pellets , what is pressure your impact is operating at ?
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You could email fx and ask if the brass pistons fit the maverick regs they will tell you yes or no
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I know they fit in the mk2 impact that have amp regs I asked them about that and upgraded mine to a brass piston
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Hi
Thanx for sharing , with the brass piston how is the refresh rate , meaning in what time (seconds)does the pressure return to the set pressure ?
Thanx
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Hi Mubhaur.
I am building a piston removal tool and also a cone for putting the 2x1 O rings on the adjustment screw of an FX Impact Mk2. My Ser No is 193093.
I have searched high and low for these specs and cannot find them. Would you be able to provide me with the OD for the large end of the adjustment screw where the two o rings are please. I will build a puller to remove the piston from those specs.
Also if possible, the OD of the piston rod where the belvilles go. I will build a piston removal tool once I know that.
Thanks kindly
I am building a piston removal tool and also a cone for putting the 2x1 O rings on the adjustment screw of an FX Impact Mk2. My Ser No is 193093.
I have searched high and low for these specs and cannot find them. Would you be able to provide me with the OD for the large end of the adjustment screw where the two o rings are please. I will build a puller to remove the piston from those specs.
Also if possible, the OD of the piston rod where the belvilles go. I will build a piston removal tool once I know that.
Thanks kindly
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Adjustment screw has two ends. One is where alenkey enters. You don't need its specs. The other end is from where two tiny O rings are installed. Its OD varies from 3.8 mm to 3.9 mm.
Piston stem OD is 4 mm.
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Thanks. Very helpful. I will post a few photos when done. It may help people who would like to have a go
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I have an FX MK2 and need to repair my regulator. I am in rural Australia and often the only way to get things done is to have a go yourself.
I constructed a piston puller and a cone to allow those 2mm, 90 duro O rings to be put on. I'm pretty sure it will work. Because you guys have been so helpful I decided to risk it and put them up.
The cone is a chrome cake icing tube called a piping tube. There are numerous small plastic bottle tips that would also work and be easier to build but I liked the chrome for less friction. I used a Dremel for all the cutting, grinding and deburring work as per the photos. I left the cone slightly longer and put a chamfer on it. I put a nail into it to hold it to get exact cut lines.
The piston is sometimes difficult to remove as it has a tight O ring around it. As Mubhaur said the piston shaft OD is 4mm so I used a new 4mm drill bit as a gauge. I used some very soft plastic. I think it was once speaker cable. I cut a slot in the end. Basically you push it onto the piston shaft then turn the spring to lock it on. It grips very well because the inside of the cable is fluted. For putting it back I do not think I need a push rod but just in case I will get some dowel and glue a rubber tip to it.
Anyway, after trying it out on various sized drills I am confident that it will do the job.
Thank you for your help Mubhaur.
I constructed a piston puller and a cone to allow those 2mm, 90 duro O rings to be put on. I'm pretty sure it will work. Because you guys have been so helpful I decided to risk it and put them up.
The cone is a chrome cake icing tube called a piping tube. There are numerous small plastic bottle tips that would also work and be easier to build but I liked the chrome for less friction. I used a Dremel for all the cutting, grinding and deburring work as per the photos. I left the cone slightly longer and put a chamfer on it. I put a nail into it to hold it to get exact cut lines.
The piston is sometimes difficult to remove as it has a tight O ring around it. As Mubhaur said the piston shaft OD is 4mm so I used a new 4mm drill bit as a gauge. I used some very soft plastic. I think it was once speaker cable. I cut a slot in the end. Basically you push it onto the piston shaft then turn the spring to lock it on. It grips very well because the inside of the cable is fluted. For putting it back I do not think I need a push rod but just in case I will get some dowel and glue a rubber tip to it.
Anyway, after trying it out on various sized drills I am confident that it will do the job.
Thank you for your help Mubhaur.
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I changed the O rings successfully in my FX MK2 regulator today and without difficulty. FYI for anyone wanting to do this. I watched the videos for hours and I built a number of specialized tools, not knowing if they would be needed. The ones that I used the most were a large syringe needle araldited onto a wooden paintbrush handle. I used that to remove the O ring inside the gun body and inside the reg housing by holding it at 45° and stabbing halfway through the ring, then levering it up and pushing it forward. Then tweezers to pull it out. The rings are easy to stab because they sit slightly higher than the metal.
I had purchased several O ring picks but in the end I was reluctant to push a pick into the O ring slot and turn it like is shown on the videos. You cannot see what you are doing to the O ring inside the gun housing and I did not want to risk damaging the seat. Brass will still scratch if you are not careful.
The ring in the gun housing is very tricky and to put it back I had cut a small plastic paintbrush handle and squared the ends and used it to push and seat the ring. It was also used to press the piston home to make sure it was seated.
The small rings on the reg adjuster screw were easily removed by using very fine nosed pliers and gripping them longwise and lifting them until they broke. The cone worked to replace them but you need reasonably long fingernails because you need your nails to push the rings along the cone onto the shaft.
If I had to do this again I would purchase the brass parts with the O rings already mounted because I noticed some wear marks on some of my parts. It is 2 years old. My gun also unfortunately has a Delrin piston.
I used a very large bench mounted magnifier to inspect everything as I pulled them apart.
I also noted inside my gun some internal marks that I would define as sloppy workmanship.
The gun is holding pressure and grouping very well.
Hope this helps others who want to have a shot at doing it. It is very tedious and you need patience and go slowly.
I had purchased several O ring picks but in the end I was reluctant to push a pick into the O ring slot and turn it like is shown on the videos. You cannot see what you are doing to the O ring inside the gun housing and I did not want to risk damaging the seat. Brass will still scratch if you are not careful.
The ring in the gun housing is very tricky and to put it back I had cut a small plastic paintbrush handle and squared the ends and used it to push and seat the ring. It was also used to press the piston home to make sure it was seated.
The small rings on the reg adjuster screw were easily removed by using very fine nosed pliers and gripping them longwise and lifting them until they broke. The cone worked to replace them but you need reasonably long fingernails because you need your nails to push the rings along the cone onto the shaft.
If I had to do this again I would purchase the brass parts with the O rings already mounted because I noticed some wear marks on some of my parts. It is 2 years old. My gun also unfortunately has a Delrin piston.
I used a very large bench mounted magnifier to inspect everything as I pulled them apart.
I also noted inside my gun some internal marks that I would define as sloppy workmanship.
The gun is holding pressure and grouping very well.
Hope this helps others who want to have a shot at doing it. It is very tedious and you need patience and go slowly.
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I just completed an install of a brand new, current, AMP reg on a members impact. 16mm piston and 10mm 11 stack washers. The new brass pistons #19696M had the delrin seals at the tips now flush like Mubhaur’s version, and the reg bodies have 3 air passage ports on the threaded lower half of the reg body.
Previous piston tips when they first came out protruded out from the piston tops. Nice that FX flushed them out
Previous piston tips when they first came out protruded out from the piston tops. Nice that FX flushed them out
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