FX Impact M3 Sniper .25 700mm Erratic fps

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Bigragu said:
What have you done to address that pop? I’ve had that happen to me twice, and each time it called for complete disassembly of the valve rod to replace the 2mm x 1mm o ring at the rearmost end of the rod, where it seals at the rear block.

On your valve return spring, factory or aftermarket?
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I found that little oring is easy to blow if you use Huma's lighter valve adjuster spring. I believe it has to do with how far the valve opens. Adjusting the valve adjuster in more or going back to the stock spring seemed to solve that nuisance issue. I am running my 35 cal at 190 bar currently and not blowing it.
 
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The only O ring I've had blast out is the Breech seal, and that is because if your shooting upwards, ( in the dark in my case ) the bolt handle drops back allowing the probe to fall away exposing the breech seal, It is the worst design of a side lever system that I have seen, On something like the RAW HHM1000X? Theoben Rapid

1. there is no breech seal to blast out
2. the side lever over cams or incase of the Theoben its a positive bolt lock up.

So I have modified my M3 with a Rare earth magnet so this doesn't happen again, I kept double loading it and missing stuff, a bit embarrassing when your getting paid to do pest control.
 
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Kevgun said:
You're right, it's a fragile design sure enough, I'm sure in years to come there will be loads of them gathering dust in a cupboard somewhere.
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The interesting thing is due to a combination of media savvy marketing and the fact that regardless of its design flaws, it IS (or has the ability to be) one of the most accurate general purpose airguns in the world, I doubt you'll see too many collecting dust, but you will see a plethora of pre-owned guns on the market, both functional and parts guns.
 
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JoePolanco said:
Nothing you're experiencing is unusual given the circumstances. This IS an FX gun afterall, not exactly famous for their durability. Although Ive owned a number of FX guns over the years, I currently own 3 highend air rifles, a Daystate Redwolf HP .22, a Skout Epoch in .30, and an FX M3 in .25. Of the 3 the FX is the most complex, least durable and by far the least dependable. Please don't misunderstand, I'm not "hating on" FX, I'm simply stating a fact. Comparisons in this case are not on an "apples to apples" basis, since two of these guns are electronic and the FX is the lone fully mechanical machine. Regardless, one buys the M3 because of it's flexibility, tuneability and accuracy, but not it's durability. The M3, like most of FX's guns, lack a robust design. It's many moving parts, operate under very tight tolerances and since the guns are not robustly designed, these parts wear dramatically over relatively short periods of time. Constant maintenence is a must for virtually any air rifle, however with an FX product, the frequency of repair is double or even tripled of many others. These guns are made of lightweight materials that simply don't stand up to normal use very well or for long without a great deal of attention. In your case, my first thought is that you've broken the hammer spring. This is common issue which frequently shows up as exactly the symptoms you've described. Other possibilities are a bent the catch pin on the cocking lever, a chewed up hammer whose defects are scraping against the walls of its chamber, a cracked or even broken valve or perhaps a loose or misaligned probe, or damaged or missing orings. The list of possibilities is pretty daunting. The bottom line line is, if youre going to shoot pcp airguns, there's a high probability that you're going to have to learn to work on them. Where FX guns are concerned, that "probability" is more of a certainty. The M3 is a great platform but it remains an FX.
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Well you saved me 33 hundred(y) I I definitely care about durability on my guns I dont want it to be as fragile as a bubble. I dont want it to be feel like im handaling a lego gun, I bonked my gun a few times kinda hard off the suppresor an what not wonder how fx would survive WHOOOPS OHHH NO I JUST DROPED MY 3000 dollars on the boulders WHOOPSS I think il pass unless i really blow up my buisness then money thru the roof then I might consider em but for NOW my avenger bullpup is fine also got hatsan blitz in mind is lookin cool 41 round mag in 25 coming out soon.
 
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JoePolanco said:
Nothing you're experiencing is unusual given the circumstances. This IS an FX gun afterall, not exactly famous for their durability. Although Ive owned a number of FX guns over the years, I currently own 3 highend air rifles, a Daystate Redwolf HP .22, a Skout Epoch in .30, and an FX M3 in .25. Of the 3 the FX is the most complex, least durable and by far the least dependable. Please don't misunderstand, I'm not "hating on" FX, I'm simply stating a fact. Comparisons in this case are not on an "apples to apples" basis, since two of these guns are electronic and the FX is the lone fully mechanical machine. Regardless, one buys the M3 because of it's flexibility, tuneability and accuracy, but not it's durability. The M3, like most of FX's guns, lack a robust design. It's many moving parts, operate under very tight tolerances and since the guns are not robustly designed, these parts wear dramatically over relatively short periods of time. Constant maintenence is a must for virtually any air rifle, however with an FX product, the frequency of repair is double or even tripled of many others. These guns are made of lightweight materials that simply don't stand up to normal use very well or for long without a great deal of attention. In your case, my first thought is that you've broken the hammer spring. This is common issue which frequently shows up as exactly the symptoms you've described. Other possibilities are a bent the catch pin on the cocking lever, a chewed up hammer whose defects are scraping against the walls of its chamber, a cracked or even broken valve or perhaps a loose or misaligned probe, or damaged or missing orings. The list of possibilities is pretty daunting. The bottom line line is, if youre going to shoot pcp airguns, there's a high probability that you're going to have to learn to work on them. Where FX guns are concerned, that "probability" is more of a certainty. The M3 is a great platform but it remains an FX.
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Well im around 5,000-7,000 shots in on my avenger bullpup .22 no need taking apart yet nothing wrong with it plus its cheap unlike an fx I see how fragile it is an how much parts its like a pass I think for me might suit matt dubber but its not a mountain hunting rig I want a durable gun that will get lugged around near boulders maybe fall a few times what not arken optics lifetime warrenty scope no question asked all good if I drop my avenger pup, If I dropped my only m3 on a jagged boudler or it scraped hard off a tree or something, I could see that thing breaking down, Matt dubber hunts from the grass with it he dont run around boulder hills an all that like I do plus he has a whole lotta fxs to play with for me each one is 2500 or what 2900 with mods yea no.
 
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When you watch those videos on Youtube of them shooting pigeons @ 200 yards, it's mostly done from a bench and they all Zero first, Its Comfy hunting

Take a standard Impact out on a Nights Rabbiting in the UK, where your climbing over fences, leaning on trees etc, by the end of the session you will need to check the zero again unless you are ultra careful.

I have managed to solve my one shifting by replacing the standard rail with a long Backbone rail, fitting the carbon sleeve, then fitting another 3 layers of carbon tube that are interference fit up to a OD of 25mm then I machined up a fitting that bolts the barrel to the Backbone rail, this has finally stopped it shifting.

My benchmark rifle is a Theoben Rapid which I bought new in 2000 and I check zero if I swap between Glass or Thermal other than that it never moves

I'm not sold on the FX Impact yet, I have spent a lot of time trying to make it reliable, which for a £2000 Rifle It should out of the Box.
 
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Kevgun said:
When you watch those videos on Youtube of them shooting pigeons @ 200 yards, it's mostly done from a bench and they all Zero first, Its Comfy hunting

Take a standard Impact out on a Nights Rabbiting in the UK, where your climbing over fences, leaning on trees etc, by the end of the session you will need to check the zero again unless you are ultra careful.

I have managed to solve my one shifting by replacing the standard rail with a long Backbone rail, fitting the carbon sleeve, then fitting another 3 layers of carbon tube that are interference fit up to a OD of 25mm then I machined up a fitting that bolts the barrel to the Backbone rail, this has finally stopped it shifting.

My benchmark rifle is a Theoben Rapid which I bought new in 2000 and I check zero if I swap between Glass or Thermal other than that it never moves

I'm not sold on the FX Impact yet, I have spent a lot of time trying to make it reliable, which for a £2000 Rifle It should out of the Box.
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I know this is exactly what I was thinking are they really that flawless matt dubber an all that does his 200 yard comfy hunting I can too with my bullpup This is what I was thinking, I hit at 100 yards with crossman primier hollows out my bull pup avenger .22 im grouping em about 2.5in Max ctc Thats amazing for me 100 yards crossman primier hollows I could hunt pigions like those guys, But im not even tuned in with jsb or slugs then Id really group it well, I dont know about the fxs do they not have any poi shifting whats so special I mean my bullpup is extremely accurate but I spent like 500 shots tuning it in trying to find the perfect hammer an I mean the perfect id move it like 1/32 of a turn?, I noticed still here an there my bullpup even with the mods I got still poi sometimes when I unscrew an screw in from the donny fl adapter, Does change when you unscrew the donny fl adapter it unscrews off with the suppresor still on an whats left it the open shroud, The shroud on the avengers is a joke, Its unbelievable its tin foil aluminum they used for the shroud If I wanted to I can probably squeez it with my strong ass fingers an it would deform its very thin shroud, and it being aluminum, I suspect sometimes when I would just unscrew the donny fl from the adapter part so the shrouds threads would be visable, I had to do this as I filled with a handpump I an ran bulky blue tube with sieve in it on the end an couldnt access the fill port on the avenger bullpup, But thats minor issue dont really get it unless I unscrew an screw it back in an thats due to aluminum threads its different position just thousands of an inch would have impact at 25 yards all be yet a small on but its there, Eather that or sometimes I notice when I shoot the gun down a bit poi will go like 1/4th or half an into to the left I suspect could be due to the steel cylinder that holds air shrunk a tiny bit but expanded when it was full at 4350 so that .002 mm will have a change at 25., Same concept here if you tape up your bottle with masking tape at 0 psi fill it with your yong heng to 4000 the tape will break due to the tiny bit of diameter change the bottle undergoes while it gets filled up due to the air pressure pushing outward on the walls of the bottle. So thats what I think.
 
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Kevgun said:
When you watch those videos on Youtube of them shooting pigeons @ 200 yards, it's mostly done from a bench and they all Zero first, Its Comfy hunting

Take a standard Impact out on a Nights Rabbiting in the UK, where your climbing over fences, leaning on trees etc, by the end of the session you will need to check the zero again unless you are ultra careful.

I have managed to solve my one shifting by replacing the standard rail with a long Backbone rail, fitting the carbon sleeve, then fitting another 3 layers of carbon tube that are interference fit up to a OD of 25mm then I machined up a fitting that bolts the barrel to the Backbone rail, this has finally stopped it shifting.

My benchmark rifle is a Theoben Rapid which I bought new in 2000 and I check zero if I swap between Glass or Thermal other than that it never moves

I'm not sold on the FX Impact yet, I have spent a lot of time trying to make it reliable, which for a £2000 Rifle It should out of the Box.
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I was just shooting pinecones in no wind they just started growing they are like .8 inch long .6 wide an in the sunlight with my arken epl4 I can see exactly where the pellets hit an I hit it on the 4th try this is 88 yards distance an first 3 shots where easily golfball adjusted for wind .75 of an inch or so and Bam impact with crossman primier hollowpoints stupid cheap an accurate for me at 20 yards they are .3 group or .2 or 1 hole. only problem with this thing besides the minor ones like trigger or heavier polymer stock or what not is the poi shifting if this airgun didnt do that in the sligtest EVER then it would be amazing Id never have to upgrade airguns only for power for bigger game but small game I dont see need to upgrade guns if mine never did its poi shifting.
 
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@Kevgun you keep mentioning how your cocking lever doesn't 'cam over' and stay in place when you point the gun skyward (posts 16, 20, and 22) allowing the probe to back out of the breech. I really don't understand this; my M3 has a very well defined 'cam over' and detent that very securely holds the side lever forward and closed regardless of the orientation of the gun. I can literally thump the butt of the rifle on the ground ‘HARD’ with the muzzle up and the side lever always stays closed securely. I never have a problem. I believe the parts that perform this detent are B14, B15, and B16 on the M3 schematic. You may want to have a look at yours because something is definitely wrong with it; I have never seen an M3 that will allow the side lever to open just by pointing the muzzle up. And I have never seen any mention in a post on this forum of the M3 side lever not staying closed.

 
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cwcarrera said:
@Kevgun you keep mentioning how your cocking lever doesn't 'cam over' and stay in place when you point the gun skyward (posts 16, 20, and 22) allowing the probe to back out of the breech. I really don't understand this; my M3 has a very well defined 'cam over' and detent that very securely holds the side lever forward and closed regardless of the orientation of the gun. I can literally thump the butt of the rifle on the ground ‘HARD’ with the muzzle up and the side lever always stays closed securely. I never have a problem. I believe the parts that perform this detent are B14, B15, and B16 on the M3 schematic. You may want to have a look at yours because something is definitely wrong with it; I have never seen an M3 that will allow the side lever to open just by pointing the muzzle up. And I have never seen any mention in a post on this forum of the M3 side lever not staying closed.

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Thank you, I will take a look at it and see if anything is damaged/missing.
 
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