does the valve rod came straight out after removing the C1? or do you have to take apart the plenum?
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FX FX impact M4 velocity “warm up”
- Thread starter adzmullen
- Start date
Take it apart to the point that you can remove c1. Then pull the rod out towards muzzle as far as it lets you (otherwise you can damage it when unscrewing plenum). Then simply unscrew the plenum (with the power block etc still on it. Then pull the rod out towards the back end through the front piece of the plenum).
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Thanks for the tips, will do.
How often do you plan on yanking out the valve rod for cleaning/polishing? 1000~2000rd to keep it as clean and as consistent as possible?
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Well, I hope that polishing it plus getting some more shots through it will eventually get it to a point that there’s no more wear on the orings guiding it… for now I guess I’ll do it whenever I notice that I need more than 5ish shots or get back to tuned speed or whenever I have the gun opened up for whatever reason.
I didn’t grease/lube it since lube will eventually wear off and provide for its own source of inconsistency but if it gets bad within a 1000 shots or so again I might as well do that in addition.
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This was exactly my beef with the M3. I had to buy a HUMA regulator to mitigate this. I can't understand why FX does not fix this. I guess I can understand it. Because we keep buying it. Why was my Uragan 2 never off speed even after sitting for 2-3 months?
But at the same time I just love the versatility and the accuracy of the M3. I was going to consider an M4 if this was no longer an issue. So I come here to search for this and there are several threads. Well... scratch that! It seams it actually got worse rather than fixed. I probably should just keep my M3. Sorry guys! I was ranting.
But at the same time I just love the versatility and the accuracy of the M3. I was going to consider an M4 if this was no longer an issue. So I come here to search for this and there are several threads. Well... scratch that! It seams it actually got worse rather than fixed. I probably should just keep my M3. Sorry guys! I was ranting.
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You got lucky if a reg fixed the issue. Most have nothing to do with the regs at all but the design of the gun itself, having a 15 mile long valve rod. It’s like me, needs several kicks in the butt to get moving after it has sat around for awhile. Lol
Also the 200 page old thread on this issue has been revived. Someone on that thread is saying FX has redesigned the valve to fix this issue and it will be available soon.
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i may have posted on the wrong thread but anyhow a member on this site has 2 new o rings for the plenum non silicone rubber
he also has a new plenum design that are made on a 5 axis cnc machine. also has valve rods that were carbide coated and polished on a diamond wheel.
i drove down to mass to meet the guy x drag racer/ Mit engineer
he said all this started with a Notos several months ago i purchased the o rings for both my impacts m3 m4
i also gave him a deposit on the valve rod and plenum which his m4 has all 3 in it he went and grabbed it and said watch it's been here all morning.
1st to last shot 990-993 3 fps that was impressive.
i did what he said installed the new o rings with just a dab of super lube grease like he said m3 1st shot 890 2nd on 900 901 902 901 right where it should be
whatever he made that o ring from just works some of you should try them you may just like your guns again
can't wait to take the m4 apart that's all for now,
he also has a new plenum design that are made on a 5 axis cnc machine. also has valve rods that were carbide coated and polished on a diamond wheel.
i drove down to mass to meet the guy x drag racer/ Mit engineer
he said all this started with a Notos several months ago i purchased the o rings for both my impacts m3 m4
i also gave him a deposit on the valve rod and plenum which his m4 has all 3 in it he went and grabbed it and said watch it's been here all morning.
1st to last shot 990-993 3 fps that was impressive.
i did what he said installed the new o rings with just a dab of super lube grease like he said m3 1st shot 890 2nd on 900 901 902 901 right where it should be
whatever he made that o ring from just works some of you should try them you may just like your guns again
can't wait to take the m4 apart that's all for now,
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I recently bought a fx impact m4 25 cal 700mm sniper,first days was very normal but as i put hundreds of shots every day that exactly issue started happening i search for answers and I found them, sticky valve rod ,I am welder and mechanical inclined since very young i like to get things done on my own,I took it apart and found some black residuos sticky material "grease like" so i clean it and put it back together and buahlahh!as good as first day,then the power wheel stop functioning and I experienced no change or very little in fps up or down making no difference that after couple hundred shots after the first clean,this time i went into the power block behind the plennnum clean and polishing the insides no one o ring change just polishing the parts put it back together and again wbuuuaalahhh... very tight extreme spread better than before,power wheel completely working as is supposed to controlling over 100 fps difference from 1 to 16 as is supposed to,so in short answer now that will be the only fix for slow shot recovery from the settings the day before is sticky valve rod *cleaning* guys that is all ,if you think that shooting a pcp thousands of times and not creating any residuos colateral left overs ?well start thinking again sunshine!because doesn't work like that,that problem will be eliminated when fx switch to a non mechanical valve that is # 1 option, but until then just clean the valve rod,polish it.....you see how good will shot you will not regret it ever...
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Good job. But I’d wait wait with opening the Champaign… “just” cleaning and polishing has been tried over and over and in all cases I’m aware of it returned. It’s a question of materials and design. No one expects a gun without normal wear and tear, but that’s not the case here…
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If what I read that the valve rod is made from titanium, that's the worst material to have going through rubber Rings. If you look at titanium the surface is very ruff due to what ever it's alloyed with. Pure titanium is very soft and flexible. It'll bend and stretch like a rubber band. I'm going to be trying out mudpro1's Oring kit in the next week or two. I know there's at least 1 person who has used it with great results.
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I would be very surprised if that's true. The rod doesn't look like titanium. Titanium has a matte glow, while the rod is shiny like a mirror. It weighs too much for titanium. And besides that, titanium is awfully expensive.
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