Tuning FX Impact MK3 Tool Kit

Hello!

Hopefully I get some advice to this question. Recently I just got my first FX Impact, MK3. Already having warranty issues that I’m not to happy about but I have to replace two things already on it myself and FX is shipping parts. Regardless of what it is on this particular gun, what types of tool kits do most of you guys have for FX guns. Main question is I’m curious if that rifle specifically is all metric hardware I would imagine?

However to a FX newbie, if there is a go to tool kit most guys gravitate towards it would be nice to have some input on.

Thanks
 
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Start with this.
 
Please don't buy a cheap set of hex keys. Buy an expensive one. It will save you money. The main reason why people f--k up their bolts are hex keys not fit for the job.

I own a impact and been using this $2 set hex key and no problem at all. If you are stripping the hex bolt on the impact, you probably don't know what you're doing and shouldn't be working on it. Js. It pretty hard to fk up the bolts on the impact.
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You may will need a Metrix hex key set ranging from 1.3mm (trigger blade adjustment) 1.5mm (trigger adjustment) to 4mm I believe (back of probe to help remove and rail removal) if anything like the MKII. Also toothless pliers for C1 removal if having to remove the hammer or hammer spring or any valve work. This would also include some blue Loctite to reinstall C1 securely along with a Bic lighter to break the old Loctite loose to remove C1. 
 
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Advanced tools, lol. The table clamp is perfect for working on the FX blocks like when inserting a new valve seat, regulator work, etc. The cordless screwdriver with torque settings gets hardware off fast, and the 2.5” long allen bits in standard and metric add to the touch. I recently added a torx bit set as I’m going to swap out the most removed fasteners on my Impact to stainless torx. That is the top rail plate along with the scope rail.

If your still feeling spendy after rounding off your initial arsenal of tools, and wanna add one mere awesome tool to remove the C1, get Ernest’s C1 removal tool at 910 Airguns.

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Lets talk consumables now-

silicone oil AND grease

standard gun grease(do not use this in the air passages, as it is a petroleum based product)

Moly paste/Moly powder

denatured alcohol

goof off

spray bottle of soap and water leak check spray, or a can of CRC leak detection spray foam

MP5 Air Venturi lubricant, and/or FP10

400 to 1200 grit of assorted packs of wet/dry sand paper

mechanical pencil to place indexing Mark’s should need be

masking tape to hold parts and to label parts

Q-tips

Tooth picks for carefully adding that tiny drop of lock tite, lol

standard slow set JB Weld Epoxy(don’t ask me, but it has its uses in working on guns)

small tube of anti-seize compound

small tube of blue lock-tite, for the C1, scope rings, etc.

small tube of Vibratite, for the smaller screws like the one that holds down your pellet probe. Do not use lock tite on the tiny grub screws. Your allen tool will round off the socket!

shop towels

wet wipes grease and grime hand wipes



More Tools to add to the arsenal-

6” round magnetic parts holder

Mini torch/butane

Calipers(actually, this is a tool)have a set of plastic ones, so as not to scratch your precious Impact)

Complete set of Buna O rings, X rings, and polyurethane o rings needed for the gun, for just in case

pin punch set

nylon/rubber hammer

nylon vice clamp magnetized inserts

o ring pic set, preferably plastic

plastic lined jaws pliers and channel lock type wrench

small vice grips

a 3/4” x 4” strip and a 3” x 3” pieces of leather in case you have to vice grip a part.

open end wrenches and/or sockets only for the few that may be needed on pcp work

locking tweezers, 12” in length

punch set, with both brass and delrin punches.

allen sets both metric and imperial already mentioned.

nylon, brass, stainless steel hobby brushes for cleaning old lock tite off of threads. Old tooth brush is also handy.



lastly, and hope this never gets used, is a small easy out set for stripped fastener heads, and a small metric set of tap and dies to help clean up threads, like I had to do on my valve rod where the C1 threads onto.



GOOD LUCK with it all!








 
Gotta add-

Magnetic pick up tool

Magnifying glass(with a push button light, is preferred)

C or E clip snap ring pliers

Needle nose pliers, wire cutters, side cutters, and standard cutters. These can be had in a small, hobby type set.

good tiny flashlight with fine point zoom

head lamp light

note pad

fine tip magnetic tool to pull out one of those 3mm steel ball bearings that may fall into the trigger assembly. Speaking of that, it never hurts to have on hand those steel balls as extra. If you drop that off of your work bench, good luck in finding it. Same goes for the pins that hold the trigger assembly in place. Lastly, the durometer 70 or 90 tiny rubber balls that are typical on the cocking block or maybe inside the valve adjustment knob. Doesn’t hurt to have spares of those. A spare C1 I bought after I saw one of the members here, on his Impact, it snapped in half. That’ll for sure put your shooting fun to a halt.
 
Damm guys I appreciate the feed back. I’m a mechanic so I am defiantly mechanically minded. I assumed correctly it would mainly be metric hardware. I do have powder burning tools but complexity of a powder burner to Impact or PCPs in general I feel is not comparable. I just wanted to get some ideas of what you guys are going through with servicing your impacts this way I can slowly buy tools and be prepared down the road. I am not too happy that I have to fix my brand new MK3 before it even gets fired. Very upset I have to do it myself but it is what it is.
 
0B08EB81-CE16-4138-A5FB-3CE810653BDE.1620444710.jpeg
DD3A50E9-8EF4-45CD-9AB8-CE5F029C925C.1620444710.jpeg
BD90F49C-3240-4679-BBF5-1303D7FB49C1.1620444710.jpeg


Advanced tools, lol. The table clamp is perfect for working on the FX blocks like when inserting a new valve seat, regulator work, etc. The cordless screwdriver with torque settings gets hardware off fast, and the 2.5” long allen bits in standard and metric add to the touch. I recently added a torx bit set as I’m going to swap out the most removed fasteners on my Impact to stainless torx. That is the top rail plate along with the scope rail.

If your still feeling spendy after rounding off your initial arsenal of tools, and wanna add one mere awesome tool to remove the C1, get Ernest’s C1 removal tool at 910 Airguns.

9A2CE3C8-E624-4597-AF40-7115927F9715.1620445142.jpeg
F4DCA2CF-7895-4757-88A7-D9212A253CB6.1620445142.jpeg


Lets talk consumables now-

silicone oil AND grease

standard gun grease(do not use this in the air passages, as it is a petroleum based product)

Moly paste/Moly powder

denatured alcohol

goof off

spray bottle of soap and water leak check spray, or a can of CRC leak detection spray foam

MP5 Air Venturi lubricant, and/or FP10

400 to 1200 grit of assorted packs of wet/dry sand paper

mechanical pencil to place indexing Mark’s should need be

masking tape to hold parts and to label parts

Q-tips

Tooth picks for carefully adding that tiny drop of lock tite, lol

standard slow set JB Weld Epoxy(don’t ask me, but it has its uses in working on guns)

small tube of anti-seize compound

small tube of blue lock-tite, for the C1, scope rings, etc.

small tube of Vibratite, for the smaller screws like the one that holds down your pellet probe. Do not use lock tite on the tiny grub screws. Your allen tool will round off the socket!

shop towels

wet wipes grease and grime hand wipes



More Tools to add to the arsenal-

6” round magnetic parts holder

Mini torch/butane

Calipers(actually, this is a tool)have a set of plastic ones, so as not to scratch your precious Impact)

Complete set of Buna O rings, X rings, and polyurethane o rings needed for the gun, for just in case

pin punch set

nylon/rubber hammer

nylon vice clamp magnetized inserts

o ring pic set, preferably plastic

plastic lined jaws pliers and channel lock type wrench

small vice grips

a 3/4” x 4” strip and a 3” x 3” pieces of leather in case you have to vice grip a part.

open end wrenches and/or sockets only for the few that may be needed on pcp work

locking tweezers, 12” in length

punch set, with both brass and delrin punches.

allen sets both metric and imperial already mentioned.

nylon, brass, stainless steel hobby brushes for cleaning old lock tite off of threads. Old tooth brush is also handy.



lastly, and hope this never gets used, is a small easy out set for stripped fastener heads, and a small metric set of tap and dies to help clean up threads, like I had to do on my valve rod where the C1 threads onto.



GOOD LUCK with it all!




Great help!

I have a Tipton Gun Vise I was hoping would be good enough.

I will slowly conquer PCP and Impacts I was just hoping not to screw with a new platform immediately. At any rate what’s the sandpaper for?





 
Or edges that are square cut/produced. Nice to round them off a bit. Scratches on aluminum can be buffed out, also, and have some Birchwood Casey aluma black swiped on, to gain back the black anodize look. Another great consumable to have on hand-





Thanks again for the help.

I already ordered a set of Wheeler Allen keys and Ernest Rowes C1 tool.

Sounds like your very familiar with PCPs and Impacts.

So the part on my new MK3 that was messed up is the right plate on the butt stock. The plate that houses the set screw for the adjustable butt pad. There are two threaded screws that sit underneath the cheek rest. The new plate FX sent out, those two drilled and tapped screw holes appear to be drilled and tapped to the inner most portion of the right plate? Drilled and tapped soooo close to breaking through the material that you can see the imprint of the threads on the inside of the plate? Is this normal that they drill and tap so close to the end of the material for that part? I can send a picture if I’m not being clear enough!