FX Fx Maverick Compact .25 arrived today with qc problems

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sparker

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Jul 16, 2023
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Omaha
After the discussion in my previous thread I went ahead and ordered the .25 Maverick compact. I followed the video guide and instruction booklet on the first run. I shot the 25 grain JSB hades and have a few questions and complaints.

1. The factory reg was set at 120 bar and on power wheel #1 I was get 560 fps, is that expected? I think I got like 870fps at power wheel #7

2. tldr: The first reg was never set at the factory. I followed the instructions to degass the gun and reset both regs. When I unscrewed the second reg for the guage to read the first one the gauge shot up to the tank pressure instead. After degassing I screwed in the first reg until it stopped and filled the gun again, but the reg gauge was still reading tank pressure. I degassed the gun again and started screwing in the first reg more. I'm really cautious because I know it can damage by over tightening, but I had to give it some mustard to get past a burr in the threads and then it loosened up and seated properly.

3. I don't trust that the hammer spring tension was set properly. I followed Steve's tuning guide for JSBs and when I tried those settings I had 110 bar (10 more than him) and was 100 fps slower with the wheel set to 4. (He called it 0hs change from factory, but I can't trust that now) Is that much variation expected gun to gun?

4. How do I set the hammer spring back to "factory"?

1691023988665.png


What does 19,2 mean? Is that turns out from full in? I know I need to "tune for the knee" but just wondering what that part of the chart means. I guess I could reverse engineer it and just aim for 880 with all other variables the same.

Edit: 5. regulator #2 sticks out of the housing. The book says “unscrew it flush with the housing” to see the first regulator pressure and what Steve did in the video matched that. Mine has to be out about 1/8th of an inch to have the same effect.


Anyway, I guess it could be worse but I expected better QC for the price point.
 
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cfs916 said:
There’s an adjuster screw on the back of the power wheel knob. I think it’s 1.5mm Allen. Turn it counter clock wise to increase hammer spring. The adjuster screw is between #1 and #7
Click to expand...
Yeah that’s what I was meaning by “HS” the fine tune thing, it was the short hand from the tuning guide I watched. I think I’m getting there.
 
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sparker said:
After the discussion in my previous thread I went ahead and ordered the .25 Maverick compact. I followed the video guide and instruction booklet on the first run. I shot the 25 grain JSB hades and have a few questions and complaints.

1. The factory reg was set at 120 bar and on power wheel #1 I was get 560 fps, is that expected? I think I got like 870fps at power wheel #7

2. tldr: The first reg was never set at the factory. I followed the instructions to degass the gun and reset both regs. When I unscrewed the second reg for the guage to read the first one the gauge shot up to the tank pressure instead. After degassing I screwed in the first reg until it stopped and filled the gun again, but the reg gauge was still reading tank pressure. I degassed the gun again and started screwing in the first reg more. I'm really cautious because I know it can damage by over tightening, but I had to give it some mustard to get past a burr in the threads and then it loosened up and seated properly.

3. I don't trust that the hammer spring tension was set properly. I followed Steve's tuning guide for JSBs and when I tried those settings I had 110 bar (10 more than him) and was 100 fps slower with the wheel set to 4. (He called it 0hs change from factory, but I can't trust that now) Is that much variation expected gun to gun?

4. How do I set the hammer spring back to "factory"?

View attachment 377665

What does 19,2 mean? Is that turns out from full in? I know I need to "tune for the knee" but just wondering what that part of the chart means. I guess I could reverse engineer it and just aim for 880 with all other variables the same.

Edit: 5. regulator #2 sticks out of the housing. The book says “unscrew it flush with the housing” to see the first regulator pressure and what Steve did in the video matched that. Mine has to be out about 1/8th of an inch to have the same effect.


Anyway, I guess it could be worse but I expected better QC for the price point.
Click to expand...
The 19.2 is `19.2 mm, or over all length of the Hammer Screw adjuster and the screw, IMPORTANT. If you are getting full tank pressure with the #1 screwed in, congratulations you get to rebuild the reg, the factory messed up...surprise...been there, done that. On the regs, see if they have the newer brass pistons, if not tell FX to send them. Spend some time polishing the mating surfaces, it seems to help.

Todays FX pro tip, you can get the o-rings in 10's, 20's for the regulators, there are a ton of posts on were to buy them, FX will send you a couple..eventually. Your #2 should be under the top at pressure, it's too far out, again congratulation, you need to get heavier Belleville washers. McMaster Carr, get 50 of them. Use digital calipers, hello Harbor Freight, measuring the very edge of the washers a stack of 11 averaging .42 will give you 100 bar max, .48 will give you 75-125 bar, .53 will give you 117 bar Min., separate into piles of like sizes, you'll be better off with all the washers the same size.

Hint, get the AA .26 and or JSB 33.95 MKII my Mav .25 VP loves them, Hades are ok but for reaching out the others work better.

I'm running 120ish on #2, stock spring and hammer weight, and a Slug probe, my sd is 1.6-2.3, good enough for me pumping out the 33.95gr at 890 fps. on #7, the 26gr AA, I don't bother changing to a lower power, they scream out and touch things a 100+ yards.
 
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HogKiller said:
The 19.2 is `19.2 mm, or over all length of the Hammer Screw adjuster and the screw, IMPORTANT. If you are getting full tank pressure with the #1 screwed in, congratulations you get to rebuild the reg, the factory messed up...surprise...been there, done that. On the regs, see if they have the newer brass pistons, if not tell FX to send them. Spend some time polishing the mating surfaces, it seems to help.

Todays FX pro tip, you can get the o-rings in 10's, 20's for the regulators, there are a ton of posts on were to buy them, FX will send you a couple..eventually. Your #2 should be under the top at pressure, it's too far out, again congratulation, you need to get heavier Belleville washers. McMaster Carr, get 50 of them. Use digital calipers, hello Harbor Freight, measuring the very edge of the washers a stack of 11 averaging .42 will give you 100 bar max, .48 will give you 75-125 bar, .53 will give you 117 bar Min., separate into piles of like sizes, you'll be better off with all the washers the same size.

Hint, get the AA .26 and or JSB 33.95 MKII my Mav .25 VP loves them, Hades are ok but for reaching out the others work better.
Click to expand...
I was getting full tank pressure because they never screwed in the first reg. They both seem to work fine so far. Just frustrating to get it like that.
 
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If you turn the regulator screw out much past flush with the reg body, you’ll blow out one of the o-rings on the screw, and they are a PITA to replace.

Why don’t you degass, adjust your first reg out flush with the body and see what that max is. Then adjust your second reg starting at 90-100 bar. Turn your internal hammer spring adjuster out 3.5mm. Check velocity and go from there.

HogKiller…. Thanks for the info on the Belleville washers.
 
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I'm pissed off now. I had 3 Avengers with bad regs and the replacement reg did the same poop. I sent the Avengers back to buy something nice, now this piece of poop shows up.

I took off the frame to look at the first reg, yep it's out past flush too. Also started leaking air. Degassed and tried to adjust it, now it's POURING air out. For $1600 I should shove this gun right up their asses.

How in the hell can I have 3 guns with 6 bad regulators? I'm starting to hate PCPs
 
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Trucker3573 said:
Where did you buy it ? Can you get a refund? If you want to be straight forward and simple by shooting hades and 25.39 return it and order a AGT vulcan 3 compact or Taipan veteran . All you will have to do is slightly tweak a HS tension screw if anything at all. Super simple guns and shoot great.
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Figuring the gun out and having a working one are different issues. It never should have left the factory like that. Now I either return it or have a $1600 paper weight for 2 weeks waiting for new regulators.

I'm pissed off and I think rightfully so, thanks for the help.
 
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sparker said:
Figuring the gun out and having a working one are different issues. It never should have left the factory like that. Now I either return it or have a $1600 paper weight for 2 weeks waiting for new regulators.

I'm pissed off and I think rightfully so, thanks for the help.
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I would be too for sure. If it were me it would be going back. You can always send it to them but I’m not sure you can really count on that. I have a praise thread up now for fx service but that will probably be amended when I shoot my Maverick a bit more to make sure they actually fixed the quirk it was having. It may or may not be fixed but I can assure the way it came back set up shows they don’t really spend the time they should on a gun as it was pretty funkered up. Had the reg at 102 bar (perfect) but HS tension adjusted for probably 130 bar. Pretty piss poor.
 
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The longer I stew on it the more I think it's going back, this is my 4th gun from Pyramid Air with bad regulators. I just don't get it, and I told myself if I boxed another one up I'm buying the Taipan from Utah Air Guns. I don't understand how QC can be so piss poor in that price range, makes me want to never touch FX again. The thing that sucks is EVERY video on youtube is for FX so any issue after warranty I can theoretically just watch a video and fix it.
 
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I would be kinda pissy too, but deep breath here. FX does have one of the best support staffs there is and they do take care of pretty much ANYTHING you can imagine. Hit up their support and tell them what you have going on and I have zero doubts they will have parts out to you immediately.

My suggestion for the very immediate future would be to swap your front and rear regs. Test to verify that there is a leak coming so you know which is an issue and from which one. Have them get you brass pistons for both of them. If it has a massive leak, you should be able to see an oring being completely gone or major chunks blown out. When you install them, don't set them out to max....turn the first reg all the way in and the 2nd all the way out to verify that front reg pressure goes up properly (which I think you already are doing).

For tuning, Steve's videos have good info but part of it is flawed. He is using the hammer spring adjustment values without even knowing the starting point. You have two ways to go about this...and one way is simpler than the others and is the way I do it for pellets. I put mine to the adjust hole and turn it all the way in until it stops. That gives me my zero point. I typically would then set the power wheel to 5 (so I do have some upwards leeway to shoot something else at higher speeds) Set the pressure to a value you want to start with and then begin turning the adjustment out until speed no longer goes up and further turns will make it go down. If you are not shooting slugs and trying to maximize power, my belief this is the best and easiest way to tune it.

Option #2 is better for achieveing max power and that would be to remove the stock and adjustment wheel. Pull the hammer out and use calipers to measure overall length of hammer to the tip of the screw. The maximum the screw should extend is 6mm, and if I remember correctly that would make the overall length be 22mm. From there, you would start with power wheel on setting 7 and start with your pressure around 90 and go up on pressure until the speeds stop climbing and then start to go down.

For a compact you typically want slightly higher pressure for shorter bursts of air. Pretty sure I ran 120 to 130 on my .22 compact.
 
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bunkeru2k said:
I would be kinda pissy too, but deep breath here. FX does have one of the best support staffs there is and they do take care of pretty much ANYTHING you can imagine. Hit up their support and tell them what you have going on and I have zero doubts they will have parts out to you immediately.
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Yes, their support was cool, but so was Air Venturi's and they couldn't get it fixed. Just went down this road last week with them so I'm jaded. Here's hoping FX is better. Right as I took a deep breathe, I got a shipping confirmation email so hopefully it's fast. He is sending me both regulators and 4 o-rings. The ones in the gun are brass, I assume the new ones will be too.

bunkeru2k said:
My suggestion for the very immediate future would be to swap your front and rear regs. Test to verify that there is a leak coming so you know which is an issue and from which one. Have them get you brass pistons for both of them. If it has a massive leak, you should be able to see an oring being completely gone or major chunks blown out. When you install them, don't set them out to max....turn the first reg all the way in and the 2nd all the way out to verify that front reg pressure goes up properly (which I think you already are doing).
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The tank was empty this morning, the leak is from the first reg, the o-ring is torn (2x1 nbr 90) but I have nowhere in town that will likely have something so specific and small.
bunkeru2k said:
For tuning, Steve's videos have good info but part of it is flawed. He is using the hammer spring adjustment values without even knowing the starting point.
Click to expand...
Exactly my thoughts. That was poart of my confusion in the first post, like "0" isn't 0 for every gun, it just didn't make sense but I thought maybe FX had strict tuning from the factory, whoops!
bunkeru2k said:
You have two ways to go about this...and one way is simpler than the others and is the way I do it for pellets. I put mine to the adjust hole and turn it all the way in until it stops. That gives me my zero point. I typically would then set the power wheel to 5 (so I do have some upwards leeway to shoot something else at higher speeds) Set the pressure to a value you want to start with and then begin turning the adjustment out until speed no longer goes up and further turns will make it go down. If you are not shooting slugs and trying to maximize power, my belief this is the best and easiest way to tune it.

Option #2 is better for achieveing max power and that would be to remove the stock and adjustment wheel. Pull the hammer out and use calipers to measure overall length of hammer to the tip of the screw. The maximum the screw should extend is 6mm, and if I remember correctly that would make the overall length be 22mm. From there, you would start with power wheel on setting 7 and start with your pressure around 90 and go up on pressure until the speeds stop climbing and then start to go down.

For a compact you typically want slightly higher pressure for shorter bursts of air. Pretty sure I ran 120 to 130 on my .22 compact.
Click to expand...
That makes sense, thanks. I'll sleep on it and then it's Friday so I probably won't do anything this week. Just sucks to go from excitement, to confusion, to frustration,m to actual anger now it's just going to be sitting with an air leak.
 
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bunkeru2k said:
I would be kinda pissy too, but deep breath here. FX does have one of the best support staffs there is and they do take care of pretty much ANYTHING you can imagine. Hit up their support and tell them what you have going on and I have zero doubts they will have parts out to you immediately.

My suggestion for the very immediate future would be to swap your front and rear regs. Test to verify that there is a leak coming so you know which is an issue and from which one. Have them get you brass pistons for both of them. If it has a massive leak, you should be able to see an oring being completely gone or major chunks blown out. When you install them, don't set them out to max....turn the first reg all the way in and the 2nd all the way out to verify that front reg pressure goes up properly (which I think you already are doing).

For tuning, Steve's videos have good info but part of it is flawed. He is using the hammer spring adjustment values without even knowing the starting point. You have two ways to go about this...and one way is simpler than the others and is the way I do it for pellets. I put mine to the adjust hole and turn it all the way in until it stops. That gives me my zero point. I typically would then set the power wheel to 5 (so I do have some upwards leeway to shoot something else at higher speeds) Set the pressure to a value you want to start with and then begin turning the adjustment out until speed no longer goes up and further turns will make it go down. If you are not shooting slugs and trying to maximize power, my belief this is the best and easiest way to tune it.

Option #2 is better for achieveing max power and that would be to remove the stock and adjustment wheel. Pull the hammer out and use calipers to measure overall length of hammer to the tip of the screw. The maximum the screw should extend is 6mm, and if I remember correctly that would make the overall length be 22mm. From there, you would start with power wheel on setting 7 and start with your pressure around 90 and go up on pressure until the speeds stop climbing and then start to go down.

For a compact you typically want slightly higher pressure for shorter bursts of air. Pretty sure I ran 120 to 130 on my .22 compact.
Click to expand...
You might want to revisit that 6mm out on that screw, something seems amiss there. I agree that while Steve has some great information, he doesn't have a zero point for the HSA but is relying on the factory to have set it correctly. I like my Mavericks but I've spent a lot of time figuring them out between this forum and videos. Having one that a previous owner totally f'd up actually was a good thing. My working theory is, if I can't fix it, I can always sent the box of pieces to someone who can, so far that hasn't happened.
 
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One other thing for Sparker, as I know it is the same for every person who EVER buys an FX gun.....If your goal is to shoot pellets, DO NOT buy the power kit. This forum is filled with posts about Mavericks and Wildcats whose power wheel works in reverse and speeds won't go up due to this. The power kit hammer weights are way too heavy and give too much preload for a typical setup. They are for much higher pressures than you will want to be using. The .25 SHOULD come with the 11 gram hammer weight and in some cases they have been shipped (incorrectly) with the 7 gram hammer weight. From my experience with these, the 11 is about perfect for most people and gives you the most flexibility.
 
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sparker said:
Interesting, the hammer does seem off but what do I know? Could be that, is there a way to check?
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Trying to attach a pic so we will see if that works....but yours should look like the 2nd from the top roughly. If it looks like the very top one, it is the lighter. Will see if i have one loose to measure the thickness, but you can use a scale if you have one for reloading or such.
Hammer-Weight-Spring-Guide-Crosman-Airguns.jpg
 
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