FX Fx maverick vp

[stovepipe]

A slug will be ballistically superior to a pellet at any speed. Most people like to push them fast to take advantage of the better stability a slug provides. There are some cases when you might need to push a slug faster if your rifling is on the fence of rpm stabilization. But other than that specific scenario, there is no advantage of accuracy in regards to fps. Time of flight at longer distances might bite you in the butt on a windy day I suppose. However I will take a slow slug over any pellet when I can. I have a Maverick compact I built in 30Cal but havent tested it still. Hopefully I can provide some numbers soon.

Thanks MongooseV8. That's good info -- I'm always learning something new here.

You reminded me of two other reasons I've always tuned slugs to go fast. One reason is to minimize the amount of correction needed for wind at longer distances, like you said. The other reason is for a flatter trajectory -- longer distance of "point blank" range for hunting. My friend and I share this rifle. I just shoot targets, so the wind problem is mostly mine. My friend is a hunter, so he likes the extended "point blank" range.

Good luck with the 30 cal compact. The short barrel sounds like a challenge, but also a very comfortable handling experience.

stovepipe

 

[coastal drifter]

Another advantage to slower speeds is shot count and calmer shot cycle. I prefer accuracy over power.

 

[Firewalker]

A slug will be ballistically superior to a pellet at any speed...

This has been by no means my experience.

At long distances?
Yes

Mid distances?
No contest! Pellets win every time for precision.

 

[MongooseV8]

This has been by no means my experience.

At long distances?
Yes

Mid distances?
No contest! Pellets win every time for precision.

Yes sir and notice I mentioned ballistic advantage. Accuracy will always be better with pellets. But the ballistics of pellets are comically bad.

Low BC, and a BC that changes wildly with small wind changes during flight. Center of gravity/mass is backwards so the pellet is always trying to flip backwards during flight. Push them too fast or too hard or too much rpm and they fly all over the place off target. Etc.

 

[HogKiller]

Just pulled the trigger and got the maverick vp. Now in order to shoot slugs. Not heavy slugs but 25g. Do i need to change barrels or get liners?

I'm jumping in here a touch late but...I've got a Mav VP, stock barrel liner with a CF sleeve, I've cleaned up the inside to reduce the tight spots before the choke. Ok, that's out of the way. The stock barrel is suppose to be good for slugs up to about 32/34 grains. I can 'easily' use pellets and .... not so easily use slugs. The RMR/FX 26 gr slugs like to go fast, something between 940 and 1040, they work well, after cleaning. Ditto for the AEA 30.2 slugs work very well. The key to slugs is air, enough to get it moving and the minimum amount, pressure and hammer/valve dwell to achieve it. A touch too much air/dwell and it'll skew the slug as it comes out the muzzle. It takes a touch of fiddling to achieve that. I'm running 138bar, I could take out my HSA and measure it but all guns are different, VERY VERY VERY tiny adjustments are necessary to get perfection, and a bunch of slugs in the process. Oh my dial is set to 7, I rarely have to change it except for very light pellets. The 600mm barrel is fine, heck I use a 500 .22 with a 1:16 twist and it works fine. My hunting range is between 50 and 125 yards with both guns. YMMV.

Addendum: one full revolution of the HSA is 1mm for those that are counting.

 

[stovepipe]

I'm jumping in here a touch late but...I've got a Mav VP, stock barrel liner with a CF sleeve, I've cleaned up the inside to reduce the tight spots before the choke. Ok, that's out of the way. The stock barrel is suppose to be good for slugs up to about 32/34 grains. I can 'easily' use pellets and .... not so easily use slugs. The RMR/FX 26 gr slugs like to go fast, something between 940 and 1040, they work well, after cleaning. Ditto for the AEA 30.2 slugs work very well. The key to slugs is air, enough to get it moving and the minimum amount, pressure and hammer/valve dwell to achieve it. A touch too much air/dwell and it'll skew the slug as it comes out the muzzle. It takes a touch of fiddling to achieve that. I'm running 138bar, I could take out my HSA and measure it but all guns are different, VERY VERY VERY tiny adjustments are necessary to get perfection, and a bunch of slugs in the process. Oh my dial is set to 7, I rarely have to change it except for very light pellets. The 600mm barrel is fine, heck I use a 500 .22 with a 1:16 twist and it works fine. My hunting range is between 50 and 125 yards with both guns. YMMV.

Addendum: one full revolution of the HSA is 1mm for those that are counting.

A tiny correction about the fine hammer spring adjustment -- 1 full revolution is 0.5mm.

stovepipe

 

[HogKiller]

A tiny correction about the fine hammer spring adjustment -- 1 full revolution is 0.5mm.

stovepipe

Hmmmm, mine measured 1mm, I measured the overall length then one rev, them measured again, not the depth from the face to the end of the bolt/screw. maybe FX did their normal thing and changed things.

 

[stovepipe]

Hmmmm, mine measured 1mm, I measured the overall length then one rev, them measured again, not the depth from the face to the end of the bolt/screw. maybe FX did their normal thing and changed things.

Hmmm... This is weird. I haven't re-measured all that stuff for years, but I thought that 1 click of the power wheel was 0.5 mm and also 1 full revolution of the fine adjustment screw was 0.5 mm, and also Phil's micrometer is 0.5 mm per full revolution. Sorry. My memory is getting really wonky these days.

stovepipe

 

[HogKiller]

Hmmm... This is weird. I haven't re-measured all that stuff for years, but I thought that 1 click of the power wheel was 0.5 mm and also 1 full revolution of the fine adjustment screw was 0.5 mm, and also Phil's micrometer is 0.5 mm per full revolution. Sorry. My memory is getting really wonky these days.

stovepipe

If I had a memory I'd dispute you. I've never bother to measure the power wheel, if we knew the pitch of the screw we'd know the distance, not that it really matters, just a factoid. What I should have done is measured the over all with the screw all the way in then the number of turns to get to the factory set point of 19.3mm.

 

[Headshots]

If you haven't tried the .22 cal AEA 25.4gr pellets in your Maverick, you should. My vp shoots them very well at 912 fps. It did get a little loud at 45-50 fpe but purchased a DonnyFL FX mod and it made an amazing difference. So smooth and quiet now and shoots more accurate than ever . Only mod was a heavier hammer .

 

[HogKiller]

If you haven't tried the .22 cal AEA 25.4gr pellets in your Maverick, you should. My vp shoots them very well at 912 fps. It did get a little loud at 45-50 fpe but purchased a DonnyFL FX mod and it made an amazing difference. So smooth and quiet now and shoots more accurate than ever . Only mod was a heavier hammer .

Any of the AEA's work well in my Compact MAV. They love to go fast, the 25.4 are coming out at 877 nice very tight groups at 25 yards, so these aren't fast but they do work well, the 21's are over 900 and the 18.3 are 960ish. Have to find my notes on them.

 

[stovepipe]

Ty for the replies. I have the .25 version. Just recieved the easy tune with phil. Waiting for chrpnograph. Took the barrel off over the weekend and found out it was shipped and tested with slug port from the pellet shop. Have been shooting the hades and neilson slugs 25/26 grain. Been accurate so far up to 50yds. Slugs and pellets. Slugs past 75yds kind of all over. Havent tried pellets.

That's a good move using the micrometer from Phil rather than the crappy FX power wheel. I could write a 20-page essay on the reasons to make that switch.

Keep in mind that Phil's demo videos are only intended to show the precision and repeatability of the micrometer. The way he uses it in the demos is not necessarily the way people tune their rifles. Everybody has their own tuning situations and approaches to tuning. Regardless of how you go about tuning, the micrometer from Phil is the only way to ensure that your spring compression won't change unless you intentionally change it. And it's the only way to ensure that when you dial the spring compression back to that used in a previous tune, it will be nuts-on back to that used in the previous tune.

stovepipe