Fx nolimit rings breaking?

So I decided to add a scope on one of my airguns. Grabbed my spare fx no limit - and I'm starting to tighten them on the rail and this happens... is this the new norm? Do you know if they warranty this? I'm shocked for the price they just snapped. Didn't even add much pressure.

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$16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4WCFNHZ These are better quality than fx no limit. I own two pair of fx and two pair of the ones I linked to. Victoptics should call them "No ripoff"
Exact same height as fx no limit but they use two screws to lock the height adjustment. Other than that they work exactly the same and do not have any serrations. These are extrusions and well made.
 
You all that have snapped them and did use torque wrenches, what was your LB inch setting for the base screws? I’ve done 25-30 lbs inch on those.

One of my sets snapped exactly at the same spot, but it came while trying to center my monstrum rubber scope cover caps on the objective end. Just snapped both the front and rear mounts at the same spot. FXUSA replaced them after I showed them proof of purchase from Utah Airguns
 
You all that have snapped them and did use torque wrenches, what was your LB inch setting for the base screws? I’ve done 25-30 lbs inch on those.

One of my sets snapped exactly at the same spot, but it came while trying to center my monstrum rubber scope cover caps on the objective end. Just snapped both the front and rear mounts at the same spot. FXUSA replaced them after I showed them proof of purchase from Utah Airguns
Actually, although you got replacements, I think you just confirmed that they (FX rings) are crap.

Never have used a torque wrench for scopes and never had a damaged scope or snapped scope ring.

Tight is tight. Too tight is too tight. I guess I instinctively know the difference. (smile)

Oh, and I guess I should say that I NEVER use a power tool to tighten scope rings and many other things. ALWAYS do it manually/by hand so I can feel it and know when to stop. YMMV
 
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Bigragu =-=

I normally torque to 16 - 18 LB inch for the rails. 12 LB inch for the scope rings. I usually use the Burris XTR adjustable rings (6 ring screws!), but tried the FX rings once with poor luck. So, switched to Eagle Visions rings to set up for a 34mm tube as Burris XTR's weren't available in 34mm when I needed them.

mike
 
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Actually, although you got replacements, I think you just confirmed that they (FX rings) are crap.

Never have used a torque wrench for scopes and never had a damaged scope or snapped scope ring.

Tight is tight. Too tight is too tight. I guess I instinctively know the difference. (smile)

Oh, and I guess I should say that I NEVER use a power tool to tighten scope rings and many other things. ALWAYS do it manually/by hand so I can feel it and know when to stop. YMMV
Funny thing is, when this happened almost three years ago, I swore never to use the no limits again and went on to use Athlon cantilever mounts. At the start of this year I went back to the no limits, mainly for bling as the no limit fasteners can be easily swapped out for stainless to match the rest of the SS fastener look on my impacts. I’ve had no problems since. I’ve also changed the way I install my SS fasteners, by applying nickel anti seize and started doing the same on my mounts, all of them, wether in SS or black steel. Not sure if anything has to do with that, why I haven’t snapped anymore no limits(knock on wood)

@ Revoman- wow, you’re on the light side of torquing the scope mounts and you still snapped them? On the inside of my wheeler torque wrench lid I have it written down in silver sharpie- base screws 25-30, scope cap screws 16-18, and the no limit height adjustment screws up to 40 lbs inch.

A long time ago this had all been brought up on my thread that I posted about my picatinny base snapping on my no limits, that it may have to do with the drilling of that tiny hole that holds a grub screw at the bottom of the mounts. I figured out what these were for this past year and it’s actually a great feature. But yeah, some had said this material removal was probably why they were prone to snapping at the bases
 
I use a Makita 18v driver with torque settings. I ordered it from S Korea because it isn't sold in our market. I bought it years ago to work on electronics because I hate twisting screwdrivers. On clutch setting 1 I can stop the bit with my fingers. The techs at FX USA use power screwdrivers.
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Heavy impact, I use the screwdriver type like the fx techs. My dominant hands thumb, trigger, and middle finger had become permanently numb from my 2021 neck fusion so I have trouble “feeling” the correct tightness and like to remove all 12 screws on the top plate on an impact is just hard on that hand so I tend to use this baby. Works great, and comes with two rechargeable batteries and a charger-
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More power to you guys who trust these power torque drivers. I simply don't trust them myself.

I simply like to be able to feel how tight I am torquing a screw.

Yes, there is the chance that I could over-torque, but IMHO the chance is much less than with a power driver.

Do you REALLY trust those power torque drivers to be accurate? If you do, then you have more confidence in them than I do. (smile)

Not to mention how many times have you bought a product, airgun or whatever, and found loose or stripped screws/bolts?

As someone said in this thread, manufacturers use power torque drivers... so, that SHOULD tell you something... (chuckle)

On another note, recently had to take my Ryobi backpack leaf blower in for service as it would not start.

Found out that one of the bolts/screws that holds the carburetor on to the engine was stripped!

How much do you want to bet that it was put on/stripped with a power torque driver AT the manufacturer? (heavy sigh)

p.s.

Don't bet it wasn't because you would lose the bet.

Thankfully it is still under warranty, but I still don't know if the warranty will cover an obvious manufacturing error. (heavy sigh)
 
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Do you REALLY trust those power torque drivers to be accurate? If you do, then you have more confidence in them than I do. (smile)
Very much so. The tiny screws holding motherboards and such are much smaller and weaker than the screws in airguns. Never stripped one and I work on a lot of electronics from computers to laser cutters and 3d printers. If I had a bit small enough I'd use it to work on eyeglasses.
 
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Very much so. The tiny screws holding motherboards and such are much smaller and weaker than the screws in airguns. Never stripped one and I work on a lot of electronics from computers to laser cutters and 3d printers. If I had a bit small enough I'd use it to work on eyeglasses.
Wow! I guess I never have had a power tool that sensitive and precise!

And, yes, I have stripped some very small screws by hand, but it was with very soft metal as in $1 reading glasses! (smile)

Oops... now they are $1.25... As in the Dollar and a Quarter Tree... Thanks JoBama! FJB
 
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This is just bad. I'm surprised that FX doesn't even list the torque specs on their website. Any reputable company should have their torque specs listed on their site if they sell scope rings. When it comes to mounting a scope, invest in a torque wrench or borrow one from a friend. I know some are saying they don't use a torque wrench and just go by feel. Without ever using a torque wrench, does one really know what 15, 20, or 45 in/lbs feels like? I know we're mounting these on airguns and not powder burners but still. JMO.
 
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