Fx nolimit rings breaking?

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Peskådot671 said:
This is just bad. I'm surprised that FX doesn't even list the torque specs on their website. Any reputable company should have their torque specs listed on their site if they sell scope rings. When it comes to mounting a scope, invest in a torque wrench or borrow one from a friend. I know some are saying they don't use a torque wrench and just go by feel. Without ever using a torque wrench, does one really know what 15, 20, or 45 in/lbs feels like? I know we're mounting these on airguns and not powder burners but still. JMO.
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I understand what you are saying about torque and feel. However, if you have any experience in tightening screws/bolts/whatever, you know when something is tight enough, depending on the screw/bolt and the material it is being screwed into. Those who don't will learn by stripping threads when hard bolts/screws meet soft metal.

Power tools usually cause MORE stripping and over torquing than manually tightening. JMHO

Anyway, the torque necessary for ANY scope rings I have ever used was not so sensitive as to NEED a torque wrench... except for warranty purposes.

Of course, some people simply can't walk and chew gum at the same time. (smile)

My doctor told me that in order to quit chewing gum I needed to smoke more... (chuckle)

iu
 
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BackStop said:
More power to you guys who trust these power torque drivers. I simply don't trust them myself.

I simply like to be able to feel how tight I am torquing a screw.

Yes, there is the chance that I could over-torque, but IMHO the chance is much less than with a power driver.

Do you REALLY trust those power torque drivers to be accurate? If you do, then you have more confidence in them than I do. (smile)

Not to mention how many times have you bought a product, airgun or whatever, and found loose or stripped screws/bolts?

As someone said in this thread, manufacturers use power torque drivers... so, that SHOULD tell you something... (chuckle)

On another note, recently had to take my Ryobi backpack leaf blower in for service as it would not start.

Found out that one of the bolts/screws that holds the carburetor on to the engine was stripped!

How much do you want to bet that it was put on/stripped with a power torque driver AT the manufacturer? (heavy sigh)

p.s.

Don't bet it wasn't because you would lose the bet.

Thankfully it is still under warranty, but I still don't know if the warranty will cover an obvious manufacturing error. (heavy sigh)
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I don’t use my little power screwdriver for any torque setting of fasteners, it’s just an easier way to remove and replace a steady row of fasteners or maybe drill and tapping in a thread. I must of the time don’t go any higher than setting three because I would rather do the final cinch down on fasteners by feel as much as I can. But for scope mounting, those all are by hand, and all get tightened wiyh my wheeler torque wrench
 
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Bigragu said:
I don’t use my little power screwdriver for any torque setting of fasteners, it’s just an easier way to remove and replace a steady row of fasteners or maybe drill and tapping in a thread. I must of the time don’t go any higher than setting three because I would rather do the final cinch down on fasteners by feel as much as I can. But for scope mounting, those all are by hand, and all get tightened wiyh my wheeler torque wrench
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Understand and agree! (smile)

Maybe I am just old, but I know what "tight" is and I can do THAT by hand without worry. ;) (y)

p.s.

I also wonder what the torque specs actually mean with some things. Does it mean that is the MAX torque, MIN torque or what?

Most of the time, those max/min torque specs are not specified, let alone quantified. So, again, not rocket science, I know what is tight or what tight is. (smile)
 
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Skydivingmiami said:
So I decided to add a scope on one of my airguns. Grabbed my spare fx no limit - and I'm starting to tighten them on the rail and this happens... is this the new norm? Do you know if they warranty this? I'm shocked for the price they just snapped. Didn't even add much pressure.

View attachment 301978
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Hi,

We are sorry to hear about your experience please give our customer service a call or send in an email explaining what has happened and they will help find a solution for you.

Regards,
FX Airguns USA

Contact
[email protected]
(866) 639-0772
 
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Trucker3573 said:
Crazy, I’ve never even broke 10 dollar rings. Glad I never pulled the trigger on these. I would have expected more. I don’t use torque wrenches either. Just take care. My guns are pcps not 308 centerfire. Don’t need to be cranked on at all.
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While there might be better options available for more money.
I’ve owned two sets for a while now…no issues.
Glad to see FX stand behind the product.

I’m guessing they’re 1000’s of them in use now.

I would like to add, that it is possibly the loosen them too much and tighten them down while improperly seated. I’ve seen it happen with some of my pic rails.
 
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BackStop said:
More power to you guys who trust these power torque drivers. I simply don't trust them myself.

I simply like to be able to feel how tight I am torquing a screw.

Yes, there is the chance that I could over-torque, but IMHO the chance is much less than with a power driver.

Do you REALLY trust those power torque drivers to be accurate? If you do, then you have more confidence in them than I do. (smile)

Not to mention how many times have you bought a product, airgun or whatever, and found loose or stripped screws/bolts?

As someone said in this thread, manufacturers use power torque drivers... so, that SHOULD tell you something... (chuckle)

On another note, recently had to take my Ryobi backpack leaf blower in for service as it would not start.

Found out that one of the bolts/screws that holds the carburetor on to the engine was stripped!

How much do you want to bet that it was put on/stripped with a power torque driver AT the manufacturer? (heavy sigh)

p.s.

Don't bet it wasn't because you would lose the bet.

Thankfully it is still under warranty, but I still don't know if the warranty will cover an obvious manufacturing error. (heavy sigh)
Click to expand...
Similar to most power tools, a good torque driver can be used to advantage, or misused to cause damage or poor assembly. Regarding scope mounting hardware, I've never considered the speed advantage of a power driver to be worth the time of getting it out to use. If you are dealing with a large number of fasteners, used properly, they are great. I believe it is prudent to do the final tightening by hand. If very accurate torque is critical, I do the final step with a manual torque wrench or driver. With scope hardware, most folks with experience in this stuff should be able to handle it by feel. In mounting scopes on PCP rifles, or firearms with minimum recoil, I often stop short of the recommended torque, depending on how it feels. I've never shaken anything loose on a PCP.
 
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Peskådot671 said:
This is just bad. I'm surprised that FX doesn't even list the torque specs on their website. Any reputable company should have their torque specs listed on their site if they sell scope rings. When it comes to mounting a scope, invest in a torque wrench or borrow one from a friend. I know some are saying they don't use a torque wrench and just go by feel. Without ever using a torque wrench, does one really know what 15, 20, or 45 in/lbs feels like? I know we're mounting these on airguns and not powder burners but still. JMO.
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If you plan on multiple install / remove cycles, a plate that tiny under the screw needs to be made of steel.
 
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Geezerhood said:
If you plan on multiple install / remove cycles, a plate that tiny under the screw needs to be made of steel.
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Just needs to be wider. The big hole in the center at only 20mm wide just weakens it too much. Eagle and Vicoptics make them 26mm and slightly thicker.
I own 2 sets of fx, 2 sets of vicoptics and 1 set of eagle. I'll never buy anything but the vicoptics again because you get nothing extra for the additional $56 to $70.
 
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beerthief said:
I used to work in a metallurgy quality lab. We called it metal fatigue
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I thought fatigue failure referred to a material failure associated with many, many loading/relaxing cycles at something under the material’s yield strength. For aluminum alloys, it can often be in the millions of cycles.

Here people are describing failures sometimes in the first loading cycle.
 
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