Fx Wildcat

Bitfrost - I sorry to here about the stud pulling out. Although I am not familiar with the stock you have, I am very familiar with putting threaded fasteners into particle board type materials. There are a few things you can do.
  1. Drill the holes larger and epoxy hard wooded dowels into the stock and then re-drill the holes. Keep in mind that you can use alcohol to clean up epoxy and you can tape around the area you are gluing to keep the epoxy off areas and make clean up easier. You might be able to epoxy the piece of the stock that ripped and you can use Lamp Black artist oil paint to color the epoxy - a little goes a long way - use to much and it will take longer for the epoxy to cure. 
  2. Install brass insert the type used for furniture. They have a course thread on the out side and a machine screw thread on the inside that will allow you to put a pan head or socket head cap screw in. The best way I have found to install the insert is to first drill for slightly over the minimum threaded diameter and then counter drill down slightly just .010 - .020 inch (.25 - .50 mm) smaller in diameter than the major thread diameter to allow the insert to start to thread straight before it begins to bit into the meat of the stock material. That way the insert wont tear out the surface material. It might also help to thread the insert on to a threaded shaft made from a screw that you have removed the head from and chuck the threaded shaft with the insert installed into a drill press or hand drill to help you get it started straight. You will need a jam nut to keep the insert from spinning and you might need to use the nut with a socket wrench to finish installing the insert.
  3. This is the way I installed the rail on my HW100 and will probably be the way I will install it on the BobCat MkII when (if) it gets here (am I sounding impatient?) I used T-Nuts - with or without the pointed barbs - if it has the barbs cut them as short as possible so only a little of the barb potion sticks up. I located the holes from the side of the rail as you did and drilled a small hole thru the stock and perpendicular to the rails mounting surface. This will give you a location to drill a hole just slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the threaded portion of the t-nut for a press fit when installed. Now, here I understand that the FX stocks have a rubbery covering on them and I'm thinking you can do a couple of things where you are going to install the t-nut which would be under the air reservoir. The t-nuts have a flange on then that are round - the stock under the reservoir I believe has a concaved radius - you can cut the sides of the flanges of the t-nut to make them oblong so they will fit better in the channel of the stock. I'm thinking when you torque the rail screws the t-nut might compress into the rubber enough to not be a problem. Or you could cut around the t-nut with an exacto knife and remove that portion of the rubber under the t-nut. Another option might be to not trim the t-nut and counter bore slightly larger than the t-nut with a Forstner bit to allow the t-nut to sit flat. If you do the last option you will what to counter bore BEFORE you drill for the threaded portion of the t-nut.
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    Sorry for being long winded - I hope that helps - KZ
 
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Bitfrost,
Here's a thread about installing picatinny rails to the Wildcat. http://airgunnation.dev/topic/fx-wc-forend-picatinny-rail-installation/?view=all
I'd add some pics of the #2 option from above but, I'm on a time constraint right now. The links will send you to places they are available, and those sites will have pictures. Good luck!
Tom
EDIT: I did a quick google search on T-nuts and I think this is what KZ is talking about -
http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/T-Nuts-304-Stainless-Steel-p/124000.htm?1=1&CartID=0 
 
I've some time ago worked in a hardware store, but I've never seen those t-nuts. I'll have to look if I go for that option. I like the simplicity of the dowel-method but for some reason I doubt it will hold? I do not want a Picatinnny rail, but the drilling and fastening of the rail is the same as I did. Well, only I did a slightly to large hole...
I think if it goes to sh!7 i'll try to find some hard wood dowel and epoxy it as best I can, and if the piece of stock that loosened goes I'll have to use some type of filler and paint over it... Thanks for your many suggestions. 
Edit: Found the T-Nuts (http://www.biltema.no/no/Bygg/Festeelementer/Mutter/El-og-Blankforsinket/Islagsmutter-20-stk-2000017260/)
And some dowels? http://www.biltema.no/no/Bygg/Festeelementer/Plugg/Massivt-materiale/Mobelrenoveringssett-2000017261/

If I understand correctly the T-nut option is only for mounting a rail?
 
Tom - Thanks for trackin down the t-nut link - it was getting late and after my bedtime - need the beauty rest ya know.

Bitfrost - if the t-nuts are not available then I would use a hex nut and drill a hole slightly larger that the width across the flats to lock the nut in place.

This insert is the an excellent option - I would install it on the back side to minimize the hole diameter on the front side and give more meat in front of the insert to minimize t pulling it out: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91731a049/=xfo31s

I don't know if these are available where you are at - McMaster Carr is local here and is a go to place for just about everything. They are not the cheapest but as you can see they have just about everything. Here is a link to there wood inserts; http://www.mcmaster.com/#wood/=xfo5vr
 
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Bitfrost – Hardwood doweling would be maple, oak, poplar = (considered a hardwood put soft in comparison) – I would think you could pick it up at your local hardware store. I’m suggesting using epoxy because epoxy doesn’t shrink like carpenters glue does. You could also use polyurethane glue, but it can be messier that epoxy.

If the hole is about 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) then I would use a 3/8 (9.5 mm) dowel. That would give you more than 1 mm around the screw to re-drill for the new hole.

If possible, drill out the holes to be slightly smaller than the dowel. You should be able to start the dowel into the hole and get it about half way into the hole without hammer it in. You can sand the dowel to fit. It's OK if the dowel slips in with just a little push. Mark the dowel at the top of the gun stock, pull out the dowel and cut off the dowel just below the mark. Sand off the top of the dowel to make it flat – sometimes it is good to put a small grove along the length of the dowel to allow excess epoxy to vent out. Tape the outside of the hole to minimize clean-up - mix up the epoxy and coat the inside of the hole with a toothpick and outside of the dowel and press it in. Allow the excess to squeeze out – remove the excess and clean-up the rest with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) 90% if possible.

You need to occasionally check the plug to make sure it doesn’t lift out until the epoxy starts to cures. Once the epoxy starts to cure pull off the tape, clean-up any epoxy under the tape, give it overnight to cure and you should be able to re-drill
 
EDIT: I'm not going to bother you guys with more scope questions. I talked to my retailer today, and they have delivery problems with the one I ordered. I have my rifle, but I wouldnt get my scope until July 20th. Hawke Sidewinder 30 6,5-24x56 20x half mildot. I'm waiting to see if he can get the Sidewinder 6,5-20x42. If he does then that's the one I'm going for. I have faith in the Sidewinder. :)
But of course, if you'd like to recommend a scope for the Wildcat, please feel free to do so.
 
Inside the stock.
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I've never tried the sidewinder but I was interested in it for a long time. But then I found the SWFA SS 3-15x42 front focal plane Mrad clicks and mil-quad reticle for only 200$ bucks more than the sidewinder. I think if I'm going to buy a scope now its going to be this one.
​Just a reccomendation for you I don't want to get to far off topic.
​Leo :)
 
"BitFrost"EDIT: I'm not going to bother you guys with more scope questions. I talked to my retailer today, and they have delivery problems with the one I ordered. I have my rifle, but I wouldnt get my scope until July 20th. Hawke Sidewinder 30 6,5-24x56 20x half mildot. I'm waiting to see if he can get the Sidewinder 6,5-20x42. If he does then that's the one I'm going for. I have faith in the Sidewinder. :)
But of course, if you'd like to recommend a scope for the Wildcat, please feel free to do so.


http://www.mundilar.net/en/scope-sidewinder-30-ir/256-scope-hawke-sidewinder-30-6-24x56-ir-5038120401006.html#/mounts-none/reticle-20x_1_2_mil_dot_ir_red_green

Try to order here. I live in Bulgaria and I bought scope by Portugal. I think that there will be no problem with delivery to Norway, and I think that the prices are not bad. My scope was delivered by DHL within four working days.