Umarex Gauntlet 2 Accuracy down.

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.20calguy

.20calguy

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May 6, 2021
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I'm shooting the G2, .22cal today, doing some plinking at 75 yards, and noticed that my accuracy was down, which I confirmed with targets.
I noticed that I could clearly see a spiraling pellet path as well.
I am still shooting copper clad Baracudas which were accurate a few months ago.
I guess its time to pull a patch, and or switch ammo.
Screenshot_20231012_173748_Gallery.jpg
 
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I guess a good barrel cleaning would be a good place to start . Maybe use some good copper solvent and a brush or wool to help break it up then patch clean .. I can only assume copper fouling in air guns could be as with a powder burner .. sooner or later it builds up .

But it's nothing a normal throughout cleaning cant resolve
 
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Hateful McNasty said:
I guess a good barrel cleaning would be a good place to start . Maybe use some good copper solvent and a brush or wool to help break it up then patch clean .. I can only assume copper fouling in air guns could be as with a powder burner .. sooner or later it builds up .

But it's nothing a normal throughout cleaning cant resolve
Click to expand...
Check this patch out!

20231012_204711.jpg
20231012_211939.jpg
20231012_211902.jpg
 
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My 1st guess would have been you need to knock that awful 90 degree wall (transition) in the leade down. Now after seeing the patch I would say you need to knock down that awful 90 degree ridge inside your barrel. Chances are if you use pure lead it will ( as most do ) build it's own little ramp and groups improve until a bit of the lead breaks loose.
Sort of a Gauntlet thing everyone should know. Heck after this long & no change the factory should come up with a special phrase for the tooling/technical used on their barrel and use it for advertising.
That said they are still a heck of a value.

Keep us posted.
John
 
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spysir said:
My 1st guess would have been you need to knock that awful 90 degree wall (transition) in the leade down. Now after seeing the patch I would say you need to knock down that awful 90 degree ridge inside your barrel. Chances are if you use pure lead it will ( as most do ) build it's own little ramp and groups improve until a bit of the lead breaks loose.
Sort of a Gauntlet thing everyone should know. Heck after this long & no change the factory should come up with a special phrase for the tooling/technical used on their barrel and use it for advertising.
That said they are still a heck of a value.

Keep us posted.
John
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Yeah, I haven't done that yet. Mostly because It all of a sudden was accurate for a short span.

I made the mistake of shooting a few H&N Baracuda Greens, and that is what I believe is stuck in the rifling. They sounded like 22lr.
 
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Don't know if something like this is the wall he's talking about , but like my hatsans breech hole was straight and sharp, so I "fixed" that with a little taper that took off that sharp edge.


First shaped a pencil eraser
hatsanleadebevel1.jpg

The a little scratch paper and worked it like a hand valve grinding toop rolling it in the palms of my hands .
hatsanleadebevel2.jpg

Then had a nice beveled smooth leedhole that don't knick pellet heads
hatsanleadebevel3.jpg

Don't know how that would do on any gun. So it's a own risk thing.
 
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Hateful McNasty said:
Don't know if something like this is the wall he's talking about , but like my hatsans breech hole was straight and sharp, so I "fixed" that with a little taper that took off that sharp edge.


First shaped a pencil eraser
View attachment 396380

The a little scratch paper and worked it like a hand valve grinding toop rolling it in the palms of my hands .
View attachment 396379

Then had a nice beveled smooth leedhole that don't knick pellet heads
View attachment 396381

Don't know how that would do on any gun. So it's a own risk thing.
Click to expand...
That's awesome, but my problem is that the smooth bore chamber meets hard sharp rifling.

This photo is not of my actual bore, but has the same basic problem.

20211101_221205_IMG_1654.PNG
 
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.20calguy said:
That's awesome, but my problem is that the smooth bore chamber meets hard sharp rifling.

This photo is not of my actual bore, but has the same basic problem.

View attachment 396531
Click to expand...
That be a tough job maybe a shallow cone shape to knock that edges off and shooth in a taper /sloping . .. pretty much do what I did above but knock the wee bit off the rifling edges. So instead of hitting the sharp flat lands it slopes a in like a ramp... ijdk

Just don't want to sound like I'm recommending anything .. lol
 
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Hateful McNasty said:
That be a tough job maybe a shallow cone shape to knock that edges off and shooth in a taper /sloping . .. pretty much do what I did above but knock the wee bit off the rifling edges. So instead of hitting the sharp flat lands it slopes a in like a ramp... ijdk

Just don't want to sound like I'm recommending anything .. lol
Click to expand...
I have some tapered cutting bits, but I'm not to anxious to put them on a power tool and stick one in there. What wound be nice is if I could get one in there and work it buy hand like a joystick, and slowly take it down.
 
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spysir said:
My 1st guess would have been you need to knock that awful 90 degree wall (transition) in the leade down. Now after seeing the patch I would say you need to knock down that awful 90 degree ridge inside your barrel. Chances are if you use pure lead it will ( as most do ) build it's own little ramp and groups improve until a bit of the lead breaks loose.
Sort of a Gauntlet thing everyone should know. Heck after this long & no change the factory should come up with a special phrase for the tooling/technical used on their barrel and use it for advertising.
That said they are still a heck of a value.

Keep us posted.
John
Click to expand...
Leade! I like that!
Leade

"in firearms terminology - the "leade" is the distance between the mouth of the cartridge (firearm) and the point at which the rifling engages the bullet."
 
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.20calguy said:
I have some tapered cutting bits, but I'm not to anxious to put them on a power tool and stick one in there. What wound be nice is if I could get one in there and work it buy hand like a joystick, and slowly take it down.
Click to expand...
Maybe a wood dowel custom cut the end to the taper you feels right then use a cloth patch with a grinding compound or grit metal polish or 400-600 grit paper Best go soft and easy and just take the edge off not mill it out .. do a little test/ check. Bare min is all you may need if it's worth the risk as I like to say .🤤.

Oh ... work it with the dowel between the palms of your hands rotating the dowel .. like hand valve grinding / lapping .. no need for chucking ot up in a drill or whatever..

Watch how he rotates the tool between his palms ..

 
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