I ran across some Permatex blue gel thread locker today and had to buy it. There is a paste option I've seem in videos, but not locally yet. The gel will definitely be a step up for the hammer spring adjustment screw on the Impact MKII.
Tuning Gel thread locker
- Thread starter Corvid_hunter
- Start date
I tried the Permatex and I don't like it, kosher, doesn't dry on air not even overnight, Loctite is much better but cost more as well.
Usually I like to dip the tip of the screws into the blue and let it dry.
Because the torque end-value is different, wet or dry....considering I may want to separate somewhere in a future I never torque a wet screw same as a dry screw.
And the C1 is only M3......
Usually I like to dip the tip of the screws into the blue and let it dry.
Because the torque end-value is different, wet or dry....considering I may want to separate somewhere in a future I never torque a wet screw same as a dry screw.
And the C1 is only M3......
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I haven't had issues with Permatex not drying. It's worked very well for assembling small stainless steel screws into threaded stainless steel knife liners. Maybe I'll look online for Loctite. I never see it on the shelf.
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I'm not trying to be a jerk, and sorry to the OP for the thread hijack....but blue loctite cures in the absence of air: https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/specialty-products/specialty/loctite_threadlockerblue242.html
And there's purple 222 for smaller fasteners: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_222.html
I'm curious, how are you getting it to cure before you install? How long does it take?
To the OP: Formulas of loctite are on the shelves in auto parts and home improvement stores (in the US). For lesser demand products, I check amazon and industrial supply houses (in the US).
And there's purple 222 for smaller fasteners: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_222.html
I'm curious, how are you getting it to cure before you install? How long does it take?
To the OP: Formulas of loctite are on the shelves in auto parts and home improvement stores (in the US). For lesser demand products, I check amazon and industrial supply houses (in the US).
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I read a few online articles on Permatex vs Loctite and they say the products are very similar. Loctite owned Permatex in the past. I took a couple of snips from the products on Amazon and the Permatex is rated a little higher on strength than the Loctite. This isn't something I'll get wound up over and will continue using what I have.
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Nation,
A great semi removable thread locker that I always use, is clear nail polish. Locks whatever screw that needs to be secured, but can be easily removed if needed.
Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
A great semi removable thread locker that I always use, is clear nail polish. Locks whatever screw that needs to be secured, but can be easily removed if needed.
Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
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Another option is Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate. Allows me to make adjustments, as with hammer springs or trigger screws, and even remove / reassemble parts after curing.
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If in a pinch and need to lock smaller threads and you do not have Loctite or similar - use Tipp-Ex.
Also good if in a hurry as it sets quickly. Easily cleaned off with Acetone.
Assuming you have Tipp-Ex handy.........
Also good if in a hurry as it sets quickly. Easily cleaned off with Acetone.
Assuming you have Tipp-Ex handy.........
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I have 6 PCP rifles, and there is only one threaded fastener in the group that has any type of locking compound. The trigger sear engagement adjustment on the HW100 uses a tiny grub screw that is locked by a second screw. Problem is, the top locking screw is almost impossible to tighten without changing the sear adjustment. So I left it out and used a drop of the mild Vibra-tite on the main screw.
My point, I think thread locking compounds are used way too much, and may cause more problems than they solve. I'm not saying you don't need it in this application, it's not one I know, but I suggest something mild, and in a very small amount.
My point, I think thread locking compounds are used way too much, and may cause more problems than they solve. I'm not saying you don't need it in this application, it's not one I know, but I suggest something mild, and in a very small amount.
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I recently did a concoction of vibra tite allowed to dry(15 minutes) and a thin coat of blue locktite on top of that, on the cocking rod on the impact. I got tired of having to always gently place the cocking block along with the trigger block very carefully off to the side as if you allow either end to rotate it would affect your transfer port alignments with the pellet probe.
it has held up solid. Used the same concoction on the C1. A micro torch is required to break the connection but I’m all good with that, as I’d rather not have the parts move
it has held up solid. Used the same concoction on the C1. A micro torch is required to break the connection but I’m all good with that, as I’d rather not have the parts move
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Same buddy. Sometimes I'll even use my little girls purple or green nail polish. It works great. I use blue locktight sometimes but clear nail polish rules for almost everything.
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The purple loctite is the go to for all things airgun. If it is a threaded piece that holds air, then it is the hydraulic sealer. There is a reason they make different products.....and while you can make do, using the right product is smarter in the long run. A $10 bottle of the right product on your $2000 airgun is a pretty minor investment.
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