Brocock/BRK Ghost trigger is sending me over the edge...lol

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Jaxjax

Jaxjax

Member
Oct 17, 2022
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Toledo Wa USA
I new before I bought this Ghost that I was probably going to be limited on trigger unless I go deep or send it off. Unless I'm totaly missing something I can't get it even close to my liking with just the 1.3mm hex adjustmants. I have to it right were it won't cock then a we bit back & done. Still heavy as all get out, It gives me fits because I know I can do a sub 1/2"@100 group with this Ghost on any given day with 50.15. , but fighting this trigger has me in a corner. Off to Derrick or I do it myself. It doesn't look easy to get it were I nee it. PXL_20230812_224331979.jpg
This was the 1st 3 of 5 @ 100 & woulda been 1/2" all day. I took pic at 3 as I know 4-5 will be trigger blown.
PXL_20230812_232932325.jpg
4 & triiger blew the 5th
I was totaly in the 1/2& under game till I trigger pulled it.
What is everyone doing to get there triggers in a doable mode for bench @100 ?
Joe
 
bdzjlz said:
I have two Brocock that I absolutely love except for the triggers. Heavy as hell. They break well once I get them pulled but they are so heavy they feel like the safety is on. I tried to adjust but ended up right where you are.
Click to expand...
On my Atomics the trigger is really sweet, but they are sub 17 FPE guns. On my Pathfinder when I first got it, the trigger was so heavy, that in some instances I had to check the safety wasn’t on. The cocking also felt stiffer and different than on the Atomics, I thought this was because it’s a 25 FPE gun. And even though I adjusted the trigger like the OP. It was still brutally heavy. I applied some of this product to the lever linkage. It smoothed everything up, including, unexpectedly, the trigger.

IMG_0775.jpeg
 
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Most of the trigger weight is from the spring on the trigger rod.

Don't even have to degas to get to it either....

Remove the two screws that hold in the trigger cassette and then squeeze the trigger back and forth to get the cassette to drop out of the gun (gravity is your friend).
Then loosen this grub screw (grub screw is secured to a flat on the valve)
Screenshot_20230812-183527.png


Then remove these four screws, might have to loosen grub screw on cheeckrest and slide it out of the way.
PXL_20230629_012740044~2.jpg


After that, the entire rear sub-assembly slides off the back end of the gun.

The primary culprit in heavy trigger pull is the spring indicated with red line. It is contained by that brass piece on the end of the rod. Be VERY careful with that brass piece. There's a small rod going through the brass piece, don't lose it.

Can either cut coils off that spring with it in place, or unthread the brass piece to remove the spring and replace with a lighter one. Brass piece likely will take heat to remove. Don't break the ears off if you choose to go this route!!!! Brass has lots of desirable features, but it's not usually very hard.
 
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Franklink said:
Most of the trigger weight is from the spring on the trigger rod.

Don't even have to degas to get to it either....

Remove the two screws that hold in the trigger cassette and then squeeze the trigger back and forth to get the cassette to drop out of the gun (gravity is your friend).
Then loosen this grub screw (grub screw is secured to a flat on the valve)
View attachment 380109

Then remove these four screws, might have to loosen grub screw on cheeckrest and slide it out of the way.
View attachment 380112

After that, the entire rear sub-assembly slides off the back end of the gun.

The primary culprit in heavy trigger pull is the spring indicated with red line. It is contained by that brass piece on the end of the rod. Be VERY careful with that brass piece. There's a small rod going through the brass piece, don't lose it.

Can either cut coils off that spring with it in place, or unthread the brass piece to remove the spring and replace with a lighter one. Brass piece likely will take heat to remove. Don't break the ears off if you choose to go this route!!!! Brass has lots of desirable features, but it's not usually very hard.
Click to expand...
I did drop the cassette a few minutes ago & it wasn't to bad. I was real tempted to dift out the pins & polish contact areas of sears but know this can be a bad thing if done wrong, but did see a vid were Sub12 did it, but didn't post the polishing. He did take all side play out via a bushing etc.. Also looks to be a srping in that cassette too. The spring on the linkage rod looks to be were to go & looks like you went the heat & unscrew route.? I'm tempted to cut a few coils in place & for go the heat the brass gig. If thats not good then maybe pull entire rod/linkage spring assembly out & send that off to experienced red locktite person. Thats the part I'm worried about.
I gotta do something thats for sure. I'm up against a wall.
Joe
 
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OR...do some hand / finger exercises to strengthen your hands (grip) .

With just a little adjusting, my Ghost trigger is one of my better triggers, of all of my guns. Smooth, easy first stage pull, with a plenty smooth second stage pull, and a nice clean break. My only negative is the slight overtravel of the trigger blade after the sear disengagement.. Would like to remove that extra movement, but it's not a huge deal.

Mike
 
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Seems most specimens of the Ghost trigger can get to around a pound with only the factory adjustments.

If you want a trigger break lighter than a # in the Ghost, gotta get more serious. My preference is down around 4-5ounces. I can tolerate under 8 or 9 oz, but I can shoot better with 5ish.

I did not drift out the pins/disassemble the cassette. Lightening up the trigger rod return spring was the biggest improvement. I did heat and removed the eared brass piece on the end of the trigger rod. Ended up not being able to source a spring I was happy with so I cut coils.

Replacing with a spring with a lighter one that has two finished ends is the more correct way to achieve what you're looking for, just PLEASE be careful of you choose to try to unthread that brass trigger rod end piece.

Cutting coils with it in place is the safer way to do it. If you decide to be brave and go for it, cut small amounts at a time, reassemble and see what you think of the trigger.

And don't forget about screw "F." Itys tiny and kinda hidden, but needs to be part of what you're wanting to do. Post #532

BRK Ghost Review

And that makes another point, I've seen lots of complaints about the Ghost power wheel not doing much. I've responded multiple times that it's all about the "tune." I'll point out here that at "min" the 18.9grain slugs are going 584 and at "max" they're going 870fps. That's a 286fps difference...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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MikeVV said:
OR...do some hand / finger exercises to strengthen your hands (grip) .

With just a little adjusting, my Ghost trigger is one of my better triggers, of all of my guns. Smooth, easy first stage pull, with a plenty smooth second stage pull, and a nice clean break. My only negative is the slight overtravel of the trigger blade after the sear disengagement.. Would like to remove that extra movement, but it's not a huge deal.

Mike
Click to expand...

Hand/finger strength isn't the problem, it's the desired accuracy/precision. Simply put, accuracy and precision are easier to obtain with a reduced trigger pull. Personally, anything much over a pound of trigger weight and I start seeing my groups open up. And there's also a broad spectrum of what each of us considers acceptable accuracy/precision.
 
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MikeVV said:
OR...do some hand / finger exercises to strengthen your hands (grip) .

With just a little adjusting, my Ghost trigger is one of my better triggers, of all of my guns. Smooth, easy first stage pull, with a plenty smooth second stage pull, and a nice clean break. My only negative is the slight overtravel of the trigger blade after the sear disengagement.. Would like to remove that extra movement, but it's not a huge deal.

Mike
Click to expand...
This makes me think ...they are not all the same from factory. My Uragan 1 w/ sears adjusted to knife edge then barely backed off is a way better trigger . & everything else I have is match grade so I won't compare those to ghost to be fair. Are you under a pound clean/no creep with just allen key adjustments.? If so then you definately got something differant then what I got. I'm a trigger snob in reality & not expexting Walther or even HW level but its gotta get better then this
Joe
 
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Franklink said:
Seems most specimens of the Ghost trigger can get to around a pound with only the factory adjustments.

If you want a trigger break lighter than a # in the Ghost, gotta get more serious. My preference is down around 4-5ounces. I can tolerate under 8 or 9 oz, but I can shoot better with 5ish.

I did not drift out the pins/disassemble the cassette. Lightening up the trigger rod return spring was the biggest improvement. I did heat and removed the eared brass piece on the end of the trigger rod. Ended up not being able to source a spring I was happy with so I cut coils.

Replacing with a spring with a lighter one that has two finished ends is the more correct way to achieve what you're looking for, just PLEASE be careful of you choose to try to unthread that brass trigger rod end piece.

Cutting coils with it in place is the safer way to do it. If you decide to be brave and go for it, cut small amounts at a time, reassemble and see what you think of the trigger.

And don't forget about screw "F." Itys tiny and kinda hidden, but needs to be part of what you're wanting to do. Post #532

BRK Ghost Review

And that makes another point, I've seen lots of complaints about the Ghost power wheel not doing much. I've responded multiple times that it's all about the "tune." I'll point out here that at "min" the 18.9grain slugs are going 584 and at "max" they're going 870fps. That's a 286fps difference...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
Click to expand...
Me & screw F had went round & round yesterday..lol 1st I couldn't access it with my 1.5mm key, so gave up & got to it from pulling sideplate. & then adjusted.. I keep hearing 1.5mm & manual says it too, but my trigger I'm fairly certain is 1.3mm.. Not a big deal just wierd. lol
BRK/Daystate or aftermarket should just sell that rod assembly in differant wieghts. I adjusted F to no cocking function then barely back to function & left it.
Joe
 
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MB8V919/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Here is the spring I used for the first stage pull. Made first stage really nice. I was lucky enough to have zx10Wall (Derrick) staying at the house for a competition and I watched him work on a ghost trigger. I then had the "knowledge" to tackle the project.

Not hard like Cole states above, but for me it was scary because I didn't want to screw something up and have a "dead" rifle. I have done 2 trigger jobs now and feel comfortable doing them.

Thanks Derrick!!!!!!

Tony P.
 
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I'll give that 1st stage spring a shot.
Here is a few pics of what I see in rear cassette.
I would like to replace the spring in caliper with a lighter one, It puts pressure on the sears as the rod pulls one section away as trigger is pulled.
2- of the 3 mating surfaces are rough under a loop & the rounded one looks decent enough. I think I'll source a few lighter sear springs & try them. PXL_20230813_141738600.jpgPXL_20230813_141948612.jpgPXL_20230813_142030007.jpgPXL_20230813_143816325.jpgPXL_20230813_143934140.jpgPXL_20230813_144608965.jpgPXL_20230813_144624630.jpgPXL_20230813_144647912.jpg
 
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What I don't understand is 2k + in a pcp is a good deal of money .. many companies suck bring a trigger that goes according to its price.. if by many options taipan has the best mechanical trigger.. why others companies simply, do a version of that trigger by licensing.. or simply have the pcp compatible with one of the many version of timey triggers aviable.. instead of every time trying to reinvent the wheel when they make a new pcp .. timey trigger go from $150 to $300+ I would gladly pay the extra $$ for a flawless adjustable trigger .
 
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Franklink said:
Do any polishing of contact points within the cassette?

I considered going in earlier in the Ghost experience, but eventually got the trigger pretty good without....but I'll still occasionally think to myself "what if smoothing it up in the cassette could make it even better?"
Click to expand...
I didn't polish anything, but I do think smoothness could be gained by what I seen on the horizonal sears with loop. What I ended up doing after the above was whipping out a printed copy of Ghost trigger & opening up the side plate again & staring at it thinking....knowing the sears are a horizonal affair in rear cart for release & F should bring them to knife edge but could never get close for some reason. SO I just went for E , giving up 1st stage travel & brought them to knife edge. I kept A were it was for 1st stage forward travel. E is very tite & must have a composite rod riding threads.. After a few attempts going slow I got it to my likeing & very light. This time when it went to no cocking zone all it took was a mild reversal & trigger still very good. Now of coarse I lost a working safety. So now carefully looking at how that actualy works I started the carful upward threading of the grub D & in very small increments. I finaly got safety to work as it should & tested everything on the range bench with dry fire tests. I don't recommend anyone to follow my lead on this as I didn't bang test the butt of stock or anything like that for the safety. I just know its working but has to be barely. It runs side to side as it should without bind. I would rather have no real 1st stage travel & have the trigger as I have it now. It breaks like glass rod sh.. but its really on the edge.
Good for my bench...hunting maybe not so much.
I don't have a trigger gauge or I would measure .
Joe
 
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mercado said:
What I don't understand is 2k + in a pcp is a good deal of money .. many companies suck bring a trigger that goes according to its price.. if by many options taipan has the best mechanical trigger.. why others companies simply, do a version of that trigger by licensing.. or simply have the pcp compatible with one of the many version of timey triggers aviable.. instead of every time trying to reinvent the wheel when they make a new pcp .. timey trigger go from $150 to $300+ I would gladly pay the extra $$ for a flawless adjustable trigger .
Click to expand...
A couple of the guys that work at Timney come to my restaurant for lunch on Fridays. I’ve never spoken to them because there’s always some catastrophe happening but ”one of these days”…
 
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W7GES said:
A couple of the guys that work at Timney come to my restaurant for lunch on Fridays. I’ve never spoken to them because there’s always some catastrophe happening but ”one of these days”…
Click to expand...
They have triggers for every discipline.. so if you hunt you could have a heavier trigger but if you target shoot They have another series the I imagine is in ounces.. could you imagine the benefits of being able to use such a convenient solution.. I think that only American air arms is using them..
 
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