Brocock/BRK Ghost won’t cock after degassing

[igolfat8]

Followed the manual. Unscrewed the bottle, dry fired about 5 or 6 times until gage was on zero and then the handle will only go back half way and won’t cock the hammer. Anyone else had this issue and found a remedy other than disassembly? Gun was fine before this. All screws are tight and not binding the probe travel.

 

[zx10wall]

Hammer is wedged. Need to disassemble rear to free hammer. Polish a bit to discourage it from happening again.

 

[igolfat8]

Thanks Derrick.

 

[Vetmx]

So the gun doesn’t like being dry fired with no resistance from a valve with no pressure behind it? Hammer over travel = a problem?

 

[GhostRider1685]

The same thing happened to me the first time I ran my ghost out of air. A little lube on the hammer and it hasn’t happened again. Pretty straightforward process to remove and replace. I used a video I found here!

 

[zx10wall]

Most Ghosts don’t do this but some do. It’s not hard to overcome.

 

[jking]

Not familiar with the Ghost but could a gauge be loosened instead of dry firing?

 

[Franklink]

Not familiar with the Ghost but could a gauge be loosened instead of dry firing?

Yep, or slightly loosen the foster fill port.

(Just unthread the bottle first or you'll dump the plenum that runs the length of the chassis AND everything in the bottle.)

 

[Franklink]

Most Ghosts don’t do this but some do. It’s not hard to overcome.

+1

This is only the second I've heard of, and lots of potential or new owners contact me with questions. I walked through disassembly over the phone with the other guy and he got himself up and running again.

There's enough online content + the manual, to be able to disassemble the rear end to free it up.

Additionally, the Ghost just isn't a complicated gun.

 

[igolfat8]

I took it apart and removed the hammer. Took a while to realize the cocking dog fits into a dovetail on the hammer. There were a couple of shiny spots on the end of the hammer, when it’s all the way to the rear where it stuck. I polished these areas with 600 grit then polished the entire hammer. Reassembled everything now the cocking linkage is dragging on something? I watched a YouTube video that said to loosen ALL of the top bolts and then tighten two at a time until the cocking linkage slides freely. I will try that next as I have to run some errands now.

Do you grease the track that carry's the block that the probe attaches to?

Derrick and Cole, what areas do you lube and what lubes do you use? Derrick said he lightly oils the hammer with Balistol.

 

[zx10wall]

If lubing metal to metal non pressurized parts, I use Hi-Slip. Not on the hammer though.
Limited-time deal: Sentry Solutions Hi-Slip Grease - 2.0 OZ Jar, Grey (91051) https://a.co/d/1tE7smn

 

[GhostRider1685]

+1

This is only the second I've heard of, and lots of potential or new owners contact me with questions. I walked through disassembly over the phone with the other guy and he got himself up and running again.

There's enough online content + the manual, to be able to disassemble the rear end to free it up.

Additionally, the Ghost just isn't a complicated gun.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge @Franklink! You influenced my purchase of the ghost to begin with, then helped when I thought I broke it!

 

[Franklink]

I do have the race way for the cocking block lubed. Just used moly from my springer days. TINY amount goes a long ways.

And have applied NOTHING on the hammer, nor in the round "tunnel" that the hammer travels in.

 

[igolfat8]

This all started after I purchased a .25 barrel for my .30. There is nothing wrong with the .30 and it shoots great and got me into the finals at the recent PAC. However, shooting 30’s are crazy expensive as much as I shoot. So after reading a lot of @Centercut ‘s praises of the .25 and seeing how ammo is 1/2 of what .30 is I wanted to give the smaller caliber a try.

Well after multiple tears downs and assemblies I think I have it right this time. It was pretty fussy about tightening the side grub screw on the rear block along with the upper bolts on the top dovetail rail cap. the cocking linkage would bind if these bolts were tightened in the wrong sequence. It’s still not factory perfect but I assume after I shoot a few hundred it will loosen up a bit more.

 

[zx10wall]

A tip; turn the hammer spring tension all the way down to minimum when degassing. For those that don’t know, you don’t have to degass to change calibers but do to lower regulated pressure. Remove bottle which has a valve and then drain the plenum with dry fires. To raise regulated pressure there is no need to degas.

 

[igolfat8]

I had to degas to lower my regs pressure since I was dropping down to a .25 I wanted to lower the reg and work my way back up. Any tips on what is an appropriate reg setting is for 34 grain heavies? I’ve got it set at 135 now and hope to go to the range tomorrow.

 

[pesty3782]

I have my 30 at 120 PW 10 and shooting 44’s at 905FPS….You should be close to that with the 34’s.

Tony P

 

[zx10wall]

I had to degas to lower my regs pressure since I was dropping down to a .25 I wanted to lower the reg and work my way back up. Any tips on what is an appropriate reg setting is for 34 grain heavies? I’ve got it set at 135 now and hope to go to the range tomorrow.

A tale of 3 Ghosts 👻

2 of my amigos and I purchased some BRK Ghosts 👻. They are all .25 HPs. Here is the tale of what transpired as tuning began………….. They showed up from AoA packed beautifully well. All clean, pressure tested and ready for work. Triggers all had some second stage drag before let-off. All triggers...

www.airgunnation.com

Here is my setting up of some .25s. It's a good starting point.