Huben GK1 adjusting power question

I read somewhere that you must adjust the power wheel in a quarter or so and shoot every time to set the desired power of the GK1, but looking at the diagram and the way internals work I dont see the point or necessity to do that. Is it something I have missed?

My other question is about the adjusting mecanism itself, is it "bad" to rotate it constantly? Imagine that you have an amazing grip that allow you to adjust every shoot with a wheel at the base, will you end wearing off something? Is this the reason they changed the valve design in V3? I supose it is the same pushing rod with a o-ring, but I would prefer to know for sure before releasing my mod design.
 
The adjustment screw is simply an adjustment that adjusts a counter air pressure spring. It is not meant to rotate constantly. It is meant to be used occasionally. I see no reason to want to move its position constantly. It makes no sense. As far as how far you turn the screw in one iteration goes, there is no mechanical reason not to turn it more than a quarter turn at a time, but the reason that is advised is that several parts must now normalize to the new pressure curve and it is just more gentle on everything if you do this slowly.
 
The K1 rifle has a wheel to adjust on the go exactly as I intend to make for the pistol, reading the manual they dont say anything about a quarter rotation, the exploded diagram of the gearbox seems identical to the GK1, the only piece that can wear of is a o-ring in contact with smooth surface rod, I dont see much of a problem turning that constantly. Without regulator, the internals are always at full pressure, the adjuster in both cases controls the compresion of a spring, more compresion, more quickly the vertical valve re-seals the plenum. The only part that can maybe move differently is the horizontal firing valve, maybe, and just maybe, it retracts more if the vertical valve opens more time, still I dont see any reason why you should turn only a quarter every shoot, Gregor Kamensek itself has a video adjusting a V3 without considering that.

But if there is a fundamented reason on why you shouldn shoot a 5fpe, and turn 4 revolutions to shoot at máximum the next one, I must advise it in the instructional video of my grip mod. Why the quarter rotation on the GK1 and not in the K1?
 
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The K1 rifle has a wheel to adjust on the go exactly as I intend to make for the pistol, reading the manual they dont say anything about a quarter rotation, the exploded diagram of the gearbox seems identical to the GK1, the only piece that can wear of is a o-ring in contact with smooth surface rod, I dont see much of a problem turning that constantly. Without regulator, the internals are always at full pressure, the adjuster in both cases controls the compresion of a spring, more compresion, more quickly the vertical valve re-seals the plenum. The only part that can maybe move differently is the horizontal firing valve, maybe, and just maybe, it retracts more if the vertical valve opens more time, still I dont see any reason why you should turn only a quarter every shoot, Gregor Kamensek itself has a video adjusting a V3 without considering that.

But if there is a fundamented reason on why you shouldn shoot a 5fpe, and turn 4 revolutions to shoot at máximum the next one, I must advise it in the instructional video of my grip mod. Why the quarter rotation on the GK1 and not in the K1?
I think you are beating a dead horse. Please do as you wish. If you want to move that adjustment around a lot, be my guest. It is your gun. Consider that every time you change that setting, the POI changes, which also means you have to adjust the gun sights and the headspace between your ears when assessing the the required Kentucky windage as needed.
 
On the rifle this adjusts a regulator, correct? No regulator on the gk1 and the internals are under greater pressure. These are two things off the top of my head that might require a little different approach

Not correct, the regulator is inside the tank and controls the pressure of the plenum, the external regulator is a wheel on the base of the grip and controls the tension on the vertical valve spring like the adjust crew of the pistol, same place, same function.

The only diference is that, the pistol plenum is always at max pressure, but you can adjust the regulator of the rifle to that as well and the manual don't say anything about the need of turning only cuarter rotation every shoot.

I just want to understand the internals before publishing a instructional video, my mod is basically finished:



I need to tweak a few things and I still need to make the rear stock, but if everything goes well, it will be out soon.
 
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The K1 rifle has a wheel to adjust on the go exactly as I intend to make for the pistol, reading the manual they dont say anything about a quarter rotation, the exploded diagram of the gearbox seems identical to the GK1, the only piece that can wear of is a o-ring in contact with smooth surface rod, I dont see much of a problem turning that constantly. Without regulator, the internals are always at full pressure, the adjuster in both cases controls the compresion of a spring, more compresion, more quickly the vertical valve re-seals the plenum. The only part that can maybe move differently is the horizontal firing valve, maybe, and just maybe, it retracts more if the vertical valve opens more time, still I dont see any reason why you should turn only a quarter every shoot, Gregor Kamensek itself has a video adjusting a V3 without considering that.

But if there is a fundamented reason on why you shouldn shoot a 5fpe, and turn 4 revolutions to shoot at máximum the next one, I must advise it in the instructional video of my grip mod. Why the quarter rotation on the GK1 and not in the K1?
The k1 is regulated and the changes are not as harsh on the internals. The gk1 is full pressure from the tank as opposed to the regulated pressure on the k1. Not as harsh on the internals.