Got my RWS 34

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GoldenStateAIRGUNer

GoldenStateAIRGUNer

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Dec 2, 2018
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Ca, United States
Delivered yesterday. Had some time to lube and chronograph. First off, the cocking cycle on these is anything but smooth. Used 6 drops of spring oil and 2 drops of chamber lube. Helped some but cocking is still stiff and nowhere near as smooth as my Sig. Another thing I don't like is the external tooth forearm lock washers go directly into the stock. I'm going to put some flat washers between the stock and lock washer. Then going to use blue Loctite on the screws. These forearm screws do come loose rather quick. After shooting it about 8 times to get the dieseling to subside I ran 10 JSB 4.53 head pellets weighed at 8.6 gr. High of 925 fps. Low of 915 fps. Averaged 917 fps. 16 ft lbs. May still be combusting oil even though no loud crack. See how it does after 50 more shots. 
 
Shot some more over the chrony. JSB weighed at 8.4 gr. 933 fps. Tried the 4.52mm heads at the same weight. 5 shots averaged 927 fps. Larger head produced slightly higher average. Very little smoke in barrel after shots. I think it will settle down into the 900 fps range with the 8.6 gr. Probably will drop a little more if I clean the barrel. Thing shoots strong !! That's for sure !
 
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Get yourself a high quality Vortek spring and seal. This alone with the supplied lube will smooth out the factory spring feel. The factory spring is short term junk. It will break on you, no question. I have them in my two 34's with untold tins of pellets fired. I have two new spares just in case the day comes when one breaks.
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Interesting ! I was looking at the Vortek PG2. In time I will change it. Once cocked, it's even stiff to return the barrel to the firing postion. Not sure what that's about ? The firing behavior seems to be taking down. Made some brass washers for the forearm. Everything Loctite'd and maybe Thursday will start working on the scope.
 
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Happy to hear you received your 34. The barrel should return to lock after cocking with ease. The barrel pivot crew just needs to be loosened as has already been mentioned. And Seven08 gave good advice also. It will have a much smoother and more reliable/consistent firing cycle if you replace the OEM spring. I have tried the Vortek spring and seal kit and didn't have good luck with it. That makes me an odd ball because most like it. I run a Macarri spring kit and piston seal and have had excellent results with that. If you do replace the spring I would recommend not using the RWS spring oil, but either a light tar or just lightly brush on a thin coat of moly paste on the spring. Hope you enjoy it. It's a great rifle and with a little tweaking.....it's an awesome springer! Good luck!!!
 
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Thanks for all the replies !! I also concluded that the barrel pivot bolt is a little tight. I just used the forearm washers I made and everything has been secured with Loctite. I think the barrel pivot will loosen enough over time. As far as moly paste goes how can you evenly distribute it without removing the spring ? I plan on staying away from light pellets and also stick with pellets with a larger head. Best way to prevent mainspring breakage is going with heavier, larger diameter, pellets. These guns are pretty powerful. Much more than I expected. I thought it would be a 13-14 ft lb rifle. Never thought 16 ft lb in a .177 cal for this gun would be possible. I'll post some pics and 10M accuracy tests soon.
 
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You would have to remove the spring to apply the moly paste. I use a very small paint brush to apply a coat of moly over the entire spring. Will be looking forward to hearing more as you learn you're 34.
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I'm not going to mess with it until the time arises. I think everything will loosen up by that first tin of 500 shots. I've read where the scope receiver plate screws come loose. You had any problem with them ? Mine seemed tight but those #0 phillip head screws are hard to check for rightness. Wish they were a hex head drive.
 
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WARNING...WARNING
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Those base screws are actually peened over on the inside never meant to be messed with. They will never loosen unless the gun is dropped. Ask me why I know this.
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Thanks for the headsup Bob ! They must go through the receiver tube then ? Then peened. Today I think I'm going fit my scope rings. You learned it the hard way I assume? 
 
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Installed the scope today and did a little accuracy test. Just as I suspected. The scope needed no elevation adjustment at 10M. Point of impact is right on par where it was when I had the scope on my Sig ASP20. Conclusion.....no barrel droop on my 34. Those forearm stock screws still come loose. I think the remedy for this will be to get longer screws and nut them on the inside. Shot 5 JSB 8.3 gr over the chrony for an average of 940 fps. Smoking hot !! Here is a pic.



1574367470_12666693895dd6f0eea0b544.56851111_20191121_120636.jpg


First shot was at 10 ft or so. Didn't want to chance putting a hole in my sliding glass door. Then shot at 10M. No elevation adjustments made. Settings were unchanged when scope was removed from the Sig. Only made 12 clicks to the right. Last two shots in the bullseye. No barrel droop on my M34 !

1574372905_20716058255dd7062934ecd4.00806889_20191121_134415.jpg

 
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Found this thread at GTA regarding the M34 forearm stock screws. I don't see how these cups are going to be any different than the diameter modified #10 brass washer I installed ?? Maybe the answer is to lose the star lock washer ? Worse comes to worse I will try putting a nut on the end of the screw. Anyone know what thread pitch those forearm screws are ? I think they are either a 4 or 5mm diameter size. The 4mm might be .70 and the 5mm might be .80 ??

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=72074.0

http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=mcupkit&404;http://www.mac1airgunshop.com:80/mac1-forearm-cup-kit-p/mcupkit.htm=


 
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This might sound like a caveman way of keeping those screws tight. Mine were always coming loose. I put a light coat of JB weld epoxy under the star washers between the wood then snugged the screws in until cured. The screws came right out when hard. I then put a light ..and I mean light..coating of JB on the underside of the screw cap. Tighten as normal. Will not come loose until this next step. Take a proper fitting junk Phillips screwdriver and heat it up in a propane flame. NOT red hot. Almost on contact with the screw the JB melts and turn out the screw. Mine stay tight until I need disassembly. Repeat epoxy step when reassembling. Done right you never see oozing JB near the screw. 

In a pinch a 10-32 pitch screw will work without major thread damage to the yoke.
 
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Before I go that extreme I think I will not use the star washer. I've had many springers and NONE of them used a star lock washer buried into wood. A blunder on Diana's part if you ask me. All my Beeman springers used a flat washer only. I will try that first with Loctite 242. I was thinking of a 10-32 screw as well. If I drilled out the thread on the yoke tabs so the 10-32 freely spins and then use a jam Nylock nut on the inside and snug it down. Just a thought. Start with the easy cures first. I am stoked that I didn't spend the money on a droop compensation mount.
 
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