Got my RWS 34

[seven08]

There looks like enough room for a jam nut. Might be difficult to turn a small wrench in there. ?? Yes, the plastic sight body is pressed on tight. Twist and pull it off or tap off with wood block and hammer. You will see a big 45 degree bevel cut on the face of the barrel. It matches a molded in bevel on the sight body for anti rotation. I put an aluminum handle-shroud on mine so it cant be seen. I cut my stock to match my other 34. I had my fingers caught too many times closing the barrel. I was used to no wood in this area. No JB seen on the screw. They have held tight for dozens of tins.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

There looks like enough room for a jam nut. Might be difficult to turn a small wrench in there. ?? Yes, the plastic sight body is pressed on tight. Twist and pull it off or tap off with wood block and hammer. You will see a big 45 degree bevel cut on the face of the barrel. It matches a molded in bevel on the sight body for anti rotation. I put an aluminum handle-shroud on mine so it cant be seen. I cut my stock to match my other 34. I had my fingers caught too many times closing the barrel. I was used to no wood in this area. No JB seen on the screw. They have held tight for dozens of tins.

Wow! The end of your stock looks like the older FB 124/127.

If I drill the yoke threads out I wouldn't have to turn the nut. Just hold the nut in place and use a screwdriver and turn the screw. I removed the toothed lock washer and just used my brass flat washer. Used Loctite and it seemed like the screw was able to get tighter. Will see how it holds. Will test it Friday. I was going to use one of the RWS muzzle brakes but think I will just leave my front sight as is.

Note : I may not have to drill the threads out of the yoke tabs. Just run the screw in until it just clears the yoke tab. Then start the jam nut and hold in place. Then take the screwdriver and tighten while holding the nut. Tricky, but could be done. Wonder if just using a light coat of JB Weld on the screw threads only might hold ? Not to heavy that the screw could be broke free fairly easy.

 

[seven08]

Right now the yoke is acting as a nut. Drilling out and nutting will be the same end result. Your second paragraph thoughts would accomplish the jam effect. The top screw in my photo shows some residue of JB on the threads. I did try this epoxy instead of Blue and Red locktite which both failed to keep screws tight. The JB held longer but eventually loosened. I went radical and tried the already described epoxy method. One day I went to change a piston seal and the screw was frozen. I was really torquing the phillips to the point of screw slot damage. PANIC. I tried the hot screwdriver heat transfer method and all was good, it turned out with ease. I have done this a couple of times now with confidence in the method. Loose screws suck.

Your gun is under warranty. Mine is not. Proceed with caution.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Right now the yoke is acting as a nut. Drilling out and nutting will be the same end result. Your second paragraph thoughts would accomplish the jam effect. The top screw in my photo shows some residue of JB on the threads. I did try this epoxy instead of Blue and Red locktite which both failed to keep screws tight. The JB held longer but eventually loosened. I went radical and tried the already described epoxy method. One day I went to change a piston seal and the screw was frozen. I was really torquing the phillips to the point of screw slot damage. PANIC. I tried the hot screwdriver heat transfer method and all was good, it turned out with ease. I have done this a couple of times now with confidence in the method. Loose screws suck.

Your gun is under warranty. Mine is not. Proceed with caution.

Mine is not under warranty. Ebay purchase. I agree with not drilling out the threads.

 

[seven08]

Sorry, I forgot this was not a new gun purchase from your original post a few days ago.

Another thing that was causing screws loosening was the yoke was getting sloppy in the dovetail cut. The big center screw is staked in place so you can not tighten or loosen it. Both my guns developed this problem and you could feel it with stock movement and buzzing when fired. While both were apart I added four stake hits on main tube to eliminate movement. This cured any more tendency to loosen. My older 34 has had screw issues and got "improvements" over the years. The two front screws are now 10-32's and JB'd per my explained method. The original M6 trigger screw was always loosening. Constant tightening combined with recoil and loose front screws, I was getting a sloppy thread fit on the cast trigger. Eventually all the cast threads stripped out. I tapped the T05 trigger .1/4 -28 and trimmed a Remington 700 screw for a full thread engagement. Just a little JB under the cap and it does not come loose anymore. Thanks in part to the good Vortek mainsprings I have not had to take down these two guns in months. All screws remain tight. I love tinkering with these 34's.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

" Another thing that was causing screws loosening was the yoke was getting sloppy in the dovetail cut. The big center screw is staked in place so you can not tighten or loosen it."

Not really sure what you're talking about here. By "big center screw" are you talking about the forward trigger guard machine screw ? I don't have any problems with that one coming loose. Note ! Shot the M34 about 20 times. Checked forearm screws. No movement so far!!  They use to loosen up after just 10 shots or less. Used my #10 brass washer with the ID turned down to .393". Did not use the star washer and torqued screws down to 25 in. lbs. using blue Loctite. So far, so good !

Just looked over at your thread in the Hunting forum and have to conclude that the RWS 34 is quite a break-barrel airgun. What hold method do you use when shooting this rifle ?

Mine seems to be getting more powerful. I shot 7 shots with the JSB 8.4 gr (4.53) for an average of 945 fps. I had a few wadcutter pellets (not sure what they were) laying around. Weighed them at 7.3 gr. and shot a 1020 fps average of 3 shots. Keep in mind that I'm only 85 feet above sea level. For it's weight the M34 packs quite a wallop.

 

[seven08]

I am talking about the M4 or M5 flat head screw that attaches the yoke to the main tube, under the cocking link. The factory stakes them so they will not vibrate loose. You can see the head radius between my stake marks in the center photo. I have pictures posted of it here but do not know how to retrieve them.

As mentioned I shoot master class rifle metallic silhouette. This is a no rest or artificial support standing off hand shooting game with a scoped rifle knocking down free standing metal animal targets. No tougher shooting game on the planet. There is airgun, .22 rifle and center fire rifle versions of this sport. I live for center fire. I have been at it 30 plus years. The D34 closely duplicates the weight and feel of my 7mm-08 match rifles. I get lots of cheap offhand practice with it.

In .22 rimfire the small targets are at 40-60-77-and 100 Meters. That 75 yd. PD was well within my skill level to hit. The D34 in .22 has ample power and fine accuracy out that far for small game with the right hit. I hold it with right hand normal on the grip, left hand close to grip and elbow at waist with upper arm supported on side of chest. It gives me a very steady non fatiguing hold.

OK....enough about me.



I have this handle/shroud..forgot the brand.. on my newer 34. Even with three set screws it would slip down from recoil. I finally drilled a shallow hole in the barrel for one slightly longer set screw to keep it put. No more slipping.

 

[seven08]

I figured out how to find stuff I posted in the past. There is hope for me after all. One of the last photos shows that yoke screw I am talking about. 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/loose-scope-rail-on-rws-34/

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Thanks Bob ! Now I know where that screw is located. If that screw comes loose I could see accuracy suffering. You should be able to hold the barrel firmly with one hand and get stock flexing with the other hand. Don't notice that on mine. What date stamp is the 34 you have had this problem with ?

 

[seven08]

Both guns developed this loose yoke problem. Both were repaired with the four place stake method. They have remained tight ever since. 

Dates are Feb. 04 and Dec. 17

The next item your gonna need is a fixture to replace main springs. Either a home made one or purchased item. You seem like a "do it your self" kind of guy. Easy to make your own.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

I've seen them and could come up with my own idea. Why in the world didn't Dianna just weld that yoke into place ?

 

[Cosmo7]

Shoot it for a little while, it'll get better. I have one in. 22. I put about a thousand rounds through it, then I sent it out to be professionally tuned. Out of the 10 rifles l own, the RWS 34, is my favorite. Pure joy to shoot. Shoots right around 800 fps. It's my go to hunting rig.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Shoot it for a little while, it'll get better. I have one in. 22. I put about a thousand rounds through it, then I sent it out to be professionally tuned. Out of the 10 rifles l own, the RWS 34, is my favorite. Pure joy to shoot. Shoots right around 800 fps. It's my go to hunting rig.

I know it's getting stronger. I had one shot yesterday with the JSB 8.4 gr hit 950 fps. 16.8 FPE ! Don't know if this is normal for this gun or is it a freak ?

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Did some more work on my M34. Noticed that the cocking arm was slightly rubbing on the left side of the stock cocking slot. Took about .025" off and all is good ! I also backed off the tension on my barrel pivot bolt. It was way to tight. Cocking is now much smoother. After cocking, the barrel will still stay wherever you let it go. Barrel doesn't rock in the receiver tube fork so it's perfect. Gave the threads of my forearm screws one mild tap with a ballpeen hammer. Screws now have some resistance to turning. Added Blue Loctite and snuged the forearm screws down to about 27 in lbs. Will let everything cure overnight.

 

[RacineJohn]

I bought my 34, (177), with a Vortek kit already installed. It is very smooth to cock. The accuracy is great, but it is the most hold sensitive gun I have ever shot! Talk about a 'love / hate relationship!". The gun frustrates me to no end, but has taught me more about shooting than any other gun I have owned. My only real complaint is I wish they had rubber recoil pads. That would give a little better purchase against the shoulder. When it must be held as loose as mine, that could help.

I plan to sell it soon, but will always appreciate the times with it. By the way, the guy I bought it from competed in field target with it - and did great! They are great rifles.

 

[TiredRooster]

I bought my 34, (177), with a Vortek kit already installed. It is very smooth to cock. The accuracy is great, but it is the most hold sensitive gun I have ever shot! Talk about a 'love / hate relationship!". The gun frustrates me to no end, but has taught me more about shooting than any other gun I have owned. My only real complaint is I wish they had rubber recoil pads. That would give a little better purchase against the shoulder. When it must be held as loose as mine, that could help.

I plan to sell it soon, but will always appreciate the times with it. By the way, the guy I bought it from competed in field target with it - and did great! They are great rifles.

Like any other springer, it is somewhat hold sensitive. But, what I have found is that you just have to shoot it. What I mean by that is, you need to shoot it a lot. I have shot my 34 so much that it doesn't even seem hold sensitive to me. I just have confidence in it because I know it. I know how it shoots and I don't really have to think about it. Put lead through it, practice and most importantly.........have fun! Thats what it's all about..........it's therapeutic to me. 

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Mine doesn't seem as hold sensitive as other springers I've owned. Including my Sig ASP20. Which is hold sensitive.