Most airguns are put together with various screws, but you may find an occasional need for a pin punch, like the pins on the front of a Gamo moderator (although a small nail is usually sufficient because the shroud is plastic). Most pin punching is done on firearms, but it's still helpful to know something about it to work on airguns. I've done some amateur work on firearms, bluing, crowning, basic repairs, changing a broken trigger spring on an old .32 was my last foray. It was fun hand-filing a basic stock spring into shape for an hour (a grinder detempers the steel), then squeezing the trigger and getting it going again. But this is about punches.
So I recommend Grace's seven-piece punch set as a great beginner's set for flat pins (PS-7), made in Michigan with a lifetime guarantee. Pins on firearms are slightly tapered so they're driven out in a certain direction, usually left-to-right, then they're driven in right-to-left. So I put permanent marker on the right side of the pin before driving it out, because that taper is usually too small for me to see. And what if a previous gunsmith drove them in wrong? Boy howdy, keep that in mind if they're really tight. And get yourself a proper punch pin hammer, you really don't want to use a carpenter's hammer. So anyway here they are:
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Now if you've roll or spring pins, which is what's on the aforementioned Gamo, you'd technically use a roll pin punch that has a little nub on the tip. But the Gamo's shroud is plastic so any punch is sufficient, but on firearms it's different because those pins are usually pretty tight. They're not tapered, but if driven out with a flat pin punch it can deform the roll pin's shoulders, so a roll pin punch is used (RS-7):
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Driving roll pins back in may require a special roll holder punch (RSH-5), although I've never used them, if they're tight going in I use luck and an an old brass punch (or the short punches to follow):
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A common problem with driving pins is bending the punch. This is usually caused by hitting the punch inaccurately, too hard, using the wrong hammer (i.e. carpenter's), or driving it the wrong way. So I've two sets of these short punches that don't bend easily (if at all), one set I ground the nubs off to use on flat pins since I don't want them dimpled. These are usually used as starters, they may not be long enough to drive the entire pin out (SRS-7):
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Well, that's about everything I know about punches, aside from the boxing kind, I hope you learned something.
EDIT: I'll add, when driving pins the item has to be very secure, and you want to strike it at a perfect 90-degree angle. Like with the .32 pistol I mentioned before, I put it on an old "lead sled" bag with extra canvas under the spot where the pins were so as not to puncture the bag, when I hit those pins they came right out. There's also bench blocks that are designed to hold gun parts securely.
So I recommend Grace's seven-piece punch set as a great beginner's set for flat pins (PS-7), made in Michigan with a lifetime guarantee. Pins on firearms are slightly tapered so they're driven out in a certain direction, usually left-to-right, then they're driven in right-to-left. So I put permanent marker on the right side of the pin before driving it out, because that taper is usually too small for me to see. And what if a previous gunsmith drove them in wrong? Boy howdy, keep that in mind if they're really tight. And get yourself a proper punch pin hammer, you really don't want to use a carpenter's hammer. So anyway here they are:
Grace USA Steel Punch Set | Graceusatools
GRACE USA 7 Pc Steel Punch Set is made with utmost precision. Designed for meticulous work on detailed projects these punches are made in the USA from High Carbon Molybendenum Tool Steel and properly heat treated and hardened the entire length with tempered striking end. They are also...
www.graceusatools.com Now if you've roll or spring pins, which is what's on the aforementioned Gamo, you'd technically use a roll pin punch that has a little nub on the tip. But the Gamo's shroud is plastic so any punch is sufficient, but on firearms it's different because those pins are usually pretty tight. They're not tapered, but if driven out with a flat pin punch it can deform the roll pin's shoulders, so a roll pin punch is used (RS-7):
Grace USA Steel Roll Spring Punch Set | Graceusatools
GRACE USA 7 Piece Roll Spring Punch Set is manufactured from the highest quality High Carbon Molbendenum Tool Steel and properly heat treated to ensure long life of the punch. Each punch is hardened the entire length with tempered striking end and are centerless ground for complete accuracy...
www.graceusatools.com Driving roll pins back in may require a special roll holder punch (RSH-5), although I've never used them, if they're tight going in I use luck and an an old brass punch (or the short punches to follow):
Grace USA 5 PC Roll Pin/Spring Holder Set | Graceusatools
Grace USA 5 PC Roll Spring Holder Set is made with the utmost precision. This five piece set is designed to accurately hold roll pins sizes 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 3.5mm so alignment is easily obtained. -The 1/16" is notched to clear M16/AR-15 rear sights. -The 3.5mm is excellent for holding...
www.graceusatools.com A common problem with driving pins is bending the punch. This is usually caused by hitting the punch inaccurately, too hard, using the wrong hammer (i.e. carpenter's), or driving it the wrong way. So I've two sets of these short punches that don't bend easily (if at all), one set I ground the nubs off to use on flat pins since I don't want them dimpled. These are usually used as starters, they may not be long enough to drive the entire pin out (SRS-7):
Grace USA Steel Short Roll Pin Punch Set | Graceusatools
GRACE USA 7 Pc Steel Short Roll Spring Punch Set is made with utmost precision. The Short version of our Roll Pin Punch Series is designed to start the difficult roll spring/pins in motion without causing any damage to the pins or punch. The Short shaft provides more control; putting your hand...
www.graceusatools.com Well, that's about everything I know about punches, aside from the boxing kind, I hope you learned something.
EDIT: I'll add, when driving pins the item has to be very secure, and you want to strike it at a perfect 90-degree angle. Like with the .32 pistol I mentioned before, I put it on an old "lead sled" bag with extra canvas under the spot where the pins were so as not to puncture the bag, when I hit those pins they came right out. There's also bench blocks that are designed to hold gun parts securely.
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