Tuning Gunstock refinishing questions.

These may be stupid questions, but I'll ask anyway...

I'm planning to refinish a couple of air rifle stocks this winter using Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler and Tru-Oil.

The butt pad is not removable from either of these air rifles. I'm thinking that if I use masking tape to mask them off that I may end up with a lip of these finishes when I remove the masking tape. Have any of you run into this? Or is it not necessary for me to mask them off?

Is there anything I should know about the checkered areas?

Advice / experiences appreciated.
 
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It's not stupid to ask.
Tape off the pad. Chase out the checkers with a needle file. Heat the the end red and curve it helps.
1 rub Tru oil dry. I do one end and hang it up. Then the other end will blend into the first at the pistol grip.
2 don't do more than 2 coats or so on the checkers
3 don't waste your time sanding between coats. Block sand it out before the last coat or two when the pores are filled to your preference.
 
Yup just tape off and I found a tiny clothe patch to better than applying with fingers....that's just me and I only used it one time on a tx 200
If your Tru oil has some bits in it apply the oil to one side of your applicator cloth and rub it on with the other. The cloth filters the junk out. Then rub it dry with the palm of your hand.
 
Most butt pads come off but the screws are hidden. Look carefully and dig around with a phillips head screwdriver looking for an unseen crack in the rubber pad, in there will be the screws. Or tape it off as others suggested..
If they're hidden behind a slit like Pachmayr does use a long round #2 phillips bit and put grease on the shank. I even reduce the diameter of the bit further by grinding it down. Put it in a drill and do a cylindrical grind job on it. Probably best to leave that kind on though because you might still nibble a little bit of rubber out of the slit opening.
 
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