GX cs2, cs3, and cs4 models... who changes the desiccant?

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I haven't laid eyes on them personally, but if they are in the water trapping block where the HPA exits the machine, I'd throw out a WAG that they are water coalescing beads, not desiccant. Desiccant in that tiny little space, would expire in about 2-3 minutes of pumping. (Or maybe they DID put desiccant, but the function would still be coalescing, not water removal).

Just my guess though. Will have to peep them next time I open one of my CS4s.
 
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F6Hawk may be correct... but they do change from white to blue in some that I've run.

They are found under the safety valve in the cs3 and in the block that has the bleed valve in the cs4.

20240322_151203.jpg
 
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Grey-Kiwi said:
Nice work finding that.
Is it desiccant or water coalescing beads that I should be drying (when my CS4-I gets here next week)?
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I'll soak the ones that are in there and find out for sure tonight which they are...

But my current guess is they are coalescent beads as they are not easy to access
 
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1900colt said:
I'll soak the ones that are in there and find out for sure tonight which they are...

But my current guess is they are coalescent beads as they are not easy to access
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You do that, and I'll put mine in the oven to dry and we can see what happens. If they change color, we'll know your original assessment was correct.
 
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F6Hawk said:
These are:

View attachment 447940

View attachment 447941


Very hard to tell if they are desiccant or silica beads. Like @1900colt, I will spray mine with water and see if they absorb water. Then run thru a cycle in the oven to dry.

Things that make you go HMMMmmmmm...
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Thanks! I had no idea.
FLgunner said:
A little more information about the where-a-bouts and how to check would be helpful... Seems if there was a serviceable item like desiccant beads, that would have been mentioned in the manual.
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Yeah, like how the CS4 user manual tells you what type of grease to use? LOL!

No offense intended... (smile)

All my best!

Kerry
 
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FLgunner said:
A little more information about the where-a-bouts and how to check would be helpful... Seems if there was a serviceable item like desiccant beads, that would have been mentioned in the manual.
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The WHERE is in the manifold that the air is pumped into from the compressor, and it houses the pressure gauge, a plug with beads inside (this is under the gauge), as well a outlets (side, front, or bleed).

It's just a working theory ATM, but @1900colt and I think they are simply using desiccant inside the manifold as a substrate upon which the water vapor can coalesce and be bled off more readily. The quantity is FAR too small to actually have use as a desiccant, but it seems to be very effective at trapping water. More to follow as (IF?) we learn more.
 
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1900colt said:
If they were designed to be replaced, you'd know it.
Clearly they were not. Reason most people don't even know they exist in the cs2, cs3, and cs4
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As I said in post #13, nobody really knows what grease is recommended. It certainly isn't listed in the "user manual" and although there are posts that claim to have talked with someone connected with GX compressors, the Company has yet to put out ANY information to officially say what type of grease they recommend. No offense, but if you can prove me wrong on that point, then list the link to that information direct from the manufacturer.

So far, I haven't been able to find ANY actual recommendation "direct from the manufacturer" as to what grease to use. Anecdotal claims of talking with "someone" at the factory or a "seller" don't preclude the fact that the manufacturer has put out NO information publicly that I know about.

All my best!

Kerry
 
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BackStop said:
As I said in post #13, nobody really knows what grease is recommended. It certainly isn't listed in the "user manual" and although there are posts that claim to have talked with someone connected with GX compressors, the Company has yet to put out ANY information to officially say what type of grease they recommend. No offense, but if you can prove me wrong on that point, then list the link to that information direct from the manufacturer.

So far, I haven't been able to find ANY actual recommendation "direct from the manufacturer" as to what grease to use. Anecdotal claims of talking with "someone" at the factory or a "seller" don't preclude the fact that the manufacturer has put out NO information publicly that I know about.

All my best!

Kerry
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Technically, some of us DO know what they recommend, and have shared it across several posts. But they don't get very SPECIFIC, they say "this will work just fine", then show a pic of Super Lube. But... WHICH Super Lube? There are many.

After doing a binch of searching, and seeing all kinds of greases used by many, I have come to the conclusion that ANY NSF H1 grease will work, whether it be silicone (synthetic) or plant oil (bio) based. Anything except petroleum.

This is the pic sent to me by a GX rep (personally, I want to avoid any grease with PTFE in it, but that may just be me):

1711160058194.png


And this is the grease I bought to compare/validate against:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M91VXTF?psc=1&smid=A3J5NRMG7P7P87

It is white in color, not translucent as the original grease in the pot, but it is NSF H1 rated, NLGI 1 viscosity, and will work just fine, and is easily sourceble, at least in the US.

The main goal of the cylinder grease is to keep the rubber supple and to seal any tiny voids. Silicone would do this best, but it is MY OPINION (and only mine; have not heard this from GX nor Omega) that true silicone grease may be too thick to travel between the three cylinders readily, thereby "starving" the third piston. Just a guess though.

Also, a GX rep has told me that after going thru the grease pot in about a year, no further greasing may be needed. I won't know until I finish my pot o' grease, run for a while, and then tear down the piston again. Get back to me in 18 months on that! :alien:
 
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F6Hawk said:
Technically, some of us DO know what they recommend, and have shared it across several posts. But they don't get very SPECIFIC, they say "this will work just fine", then show a pic of Super Lube. But... WHICH Super Lube? There are many.

After doing a binch of searching, and seeing all kinds of greases used by many, I have come to the conclusion that ANY NSF H1 grease will work, whether it be silicone (synthetic) or plant oil (bio) based. Anything except petroleum.

This is the pic sent to me by a GX rep (personally, I want to avoid any grease with PTFE in it, but that may just be me):

View attachment 447966

And this is the grease I bought to compare/validate against:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M91VXTF?psc=1&smid=A3J5NRMG7P7P87

It is white in color, not translucent as the original grease in the pot, but it is NSF H1 rated, NLGI 1 viscosity, and will work just fine, and is easily sourceble, at least in the US.

The main goal of the cylinder grease is to keep the rubber supple and to seal any tiny voids. Silicone would do this best, but it is MY OPINION (and only mine; have not heard this from GX nor Omega) that true silicone grease may be too thick to travel between the three cylinders readily, thereby "starving" the third piston. Just a guess though.

Also, a GX rep has told me that after going thru the grease pot in about a year, no further greasing may be needed. I won't know until I finish my pot o' grease, run for a while, and then tear down the piston again. Get back to me in 18 months on that! :alien:
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I appreciate your research, but it is still "anecdotal". Before and shortly after I bought my CS4, it was stressed that the grease HAD to be "FOOD GRADE" synthetic grease. I assumed that the food grade moniker was needed for those who would use the CS4 to fill tanks for breathable air.

I don't know if that is true. Since then, I don't see that strong recommendation for "food grade synthetic" grease.

Never the less, GX (manufacturer) has still never put out ANY public recommendation. Neither does it mention ANYTHING in the "user manual" (laugh) concerning grease.

To get back on topic for this thread, I do remember reading that the built-in "water/oil" separator requires no maintenance or replacement.

Not saying this is true, but I do remember reading it. If and when I find it where I can link to it and post it I will. However, I have noticed that some of the advertising has been surreptitiously "cleaned up". So I may never find it now as I never thought to take a screen shot.

ANYWAY, so far I am happy with my CS4, but I use it much less than those who shoot a lot. Mine rarely runs more than 90-120 seconds to top off my airguns from about ~2400psi minimum to ~2700psi max.

I have never even had the case off of my CS4, so thanks for checking into these things for the rest of us! (smile)

All my best!

Kerry
 
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