I think you'll be surprised (just an assessment based on my years of experience with machinery and hands-on maintenance). These machines are solid, and indicative of sound engineering advice and research. Another thing I like is that GX takes customer input seriously, and improves on things not only between each model, but also on current models. They aren't "bullet proof" by any means, but I'll be the one surprised by any early failures that aren't user-induced. (Have already heard of several of these)I'm probably going to get rocks thrown at me, but maybe they don't disclose this information is that these units won't last very long. So why bother to list the grease, beads etc. If I get 50 hours out if mine I will be surprised.
I know what you're saying, and you ain't wrong about it being hard to track down. But I DO disagree with the anecdotal part. To be clear:I appreciate your research, but it is still "anecdotal". Before and shortly after I bought my CS4, it was stressed that the grease HAD to be "FOOD GRADE" synthetic grease. I assumed that the food grade moniker was needed for those who would use the CS4 to fill tanks for breathable air.
I don't know if that is true. Since then, I don't see that strong recommendation for "food grade synthetic" grease.
Never the less, GX (manufacturer) has still never put out ANY public recommendation. Neither does it mention ANYTHING in the "user manual" (laugh) concerning grease.
To get back on topic for this thread, I do remember reading that the built-in "water/oil" separator requires no maintenance or replacement.
Not saying this is true, but I do remember reading it. If and when I find it where I can link to it and post it I will. However, I have noticed that some of the advertising has been surreptitiously "cleaned up". So I may never find it now as I never thought to take a screen shot.
ANYWAY, so far I am happy with my CS4, but I use it much less than those who shoot a lot. Mine rarely runs more than 90-120 seconds to top off my airguns from about ~2400psi minimum to ~2700psi max.
I have never even had the case off of my CS4, so thanks for checking into these things for the rest of us! (smile)
All my best!
Kerry
Well, I have my doubts. Clicking and knocking is not a good thing, and that's what mine has been doing since day one. It's a budget compressor, so I'll take it as that.I think you'll be surprised (just an assessment based on my years of experience with machinery and hands-on maintenance). These machines are solid, and indicative of sound engineering advice and research. Another thing I like is that GX takes customer input seriously, and improves on things not only between each model, but also on current models. They aren't "bullet proof" by any means, but I'll be the one surprised by any early failures that aren't user-induced. (Have already heard of several of these)
My apologies if I have used the term "anecdotal" incorrectly. When there is no official statement from a manufacturer, I consider all the rest as "anecdotal".I know what you're saying, and you ain't wrong about it being hard to track down. But I DO disagree with the anecdotal part. To be clear:
anecdotal
ăn″ĭk-dōt′l
adjective
- Of, characterized by, or full of anecdotes.
- Based on casual observations or indications rather than rigorous or scientific analysis.
However, my posts are based on direct communication with GX rep recommending a particular grease (Super Lube), not my casual observations (though my statement that "about any NSF H1 grease will work" IS anecdotal).
The reality is (again, according to GX, in a conversation with me, as well as posted elsewhere by someone who was re-posting the TF dude), "after a year there is no need to add more grease". So no need to get wrapped around the axle. NSF H1 will work just fine. Petroleum will not (don't want any detonation going on, after all).
And you're right, there is no need for maintenance on the water separator. But kudos to @1900colt for pointing out that the beads are actually in there. I failed to notice it myself.
I feel you, and don't disagree with you concerns. Allow me to just throw out one word... China. Lots open to interpretation, and not easy to communicate, by any means. But with all of us old farts sharing info, I think we can overcome the barriers. At least we shall have fu. trying, eh?My apologies if I have used the term "anecdotal" incorrectly. When there is no official statement from a manufacturer, I consider all the rest as "anecdotal".
Even when they make a lot of sense. They are still not a sourced public recommendation from the manufacturer. Therefor, anecdotal in my thinking.
Perhaps I should have said, once again, that all I have read is at best 2nd hand (your relating your communications with GX) and 3rd, 4th and 5th hand supposed things that the GX manufacturer STILL has not made public as an official statement nor officially said was true in relation to all the "anecdotal" comments claiming to have information directly from GX or affiliates.
Although I am probably wrong in the pure definition, I consider these things to be "anecdotal" because they can't be backed up with actual quotable evidence from the source/manufacturer as they have never put it in print. Anywhere. AFAIK
Thanks again for the efforts of you and 1900colt!
Much appreciated!
All my best!
Kerry
Well, let me throw out 2 letters in response the the above in bold.I feel you, and don't disagree with you concerns. Allow me to just throw out one word... China. Lots open to interpretation, and not easy to communicate, by any means. But with all of us old farts sharing info, I think we can overcome the barriers. At least we shall have fu. trying, eh?![]()
1. This thread is not a "concern", like I said, it's not designed to be serviced... so don't worry about something that's a non issue.Well, let me throw out 2 letters in response the the above in bold.
BS.
There is nothing to prevent Chinese manufacturers from giving factual instructions in English, other than wanting to keep from being honest.
Hell, they could even put it out in Chinese as there are myriads of interpreters online to help make things clear.
GX simply hasn't put out ANYTHING concerning the grease or this new concern that this thread is about, etc.
Yep, I went there and said that because it is true. Damn... it isn't rocket science. (grin)
Again, I appreciate what you are trying to do, but don't piss down my back and tell me it is raining! LOL!
All my best!
Kerry
Pull the bleed valve off![]()
It's designed to do that. While I have not confirmed with GX, in conversation with others who have a lot of experience with the compressors, believe they are using these desiccant (or plain silica) beads as a surface to coalesce the water and trap it in the bleed chamber, thereby allowing drier air to pass on to the fill port. If it weren't for these beads, more water would escape into our guns as vapor.Will do. Wouldn't have expected anything there as that spot gets flooded by water every time I use the pump.
So send them an email yourself.As I said in post #13, nobody really knows what grease is recommended. It certainly isn't listed in the "user manual" and although there are posts that claim to have talked with someone connected with GX compressors, the Company has yet to put out ANY information to officially say what type of grease they recommend. No offense, but if you can prove me wrong on that point, then list the link to that information direct from the manufacturer.
So far, I haven't been able to find ANY actual recommendation "direct from the manufacturer" as to what grease to use. Anecdotal claims of talking with "someone" at the factory or a "seller" don't preclude the fact that the manufacturer has put out NO information publicly that I know about.
All my best!
Kerry
Wow! Didn't mean to get your shorts in a wad. That was not my intent.1. This thread is not a "concern", like I said, it's not designed to be serviced... so don't worry about something that's a non issue.
2. You don't know how the manual was written, someone in the US actually helped with it some (no it was not me either) but they were born here and 100% American English speaking with ZERO Chinese background.
3. The grease has been answered, you just don't want to believe it and like to argue about it instead
4. Odds are, by your super concern over the grease pot... you'll probably be one that is going to over grease the thing and then wonder why it quit building full pressure. There's enough in there to last many many many hours of run time. More like it would dry out before you'd probably even use it all. But if you did the question has been answered.
5. It's the El2 not cs2 that's got the beads..my mistake.. it was a long day.
6. No wonder I hate forums...people LOVE to create issues when there is none and then throw a fit.
Yep I too went there because it is true.
I have changed them in my CS3 and found no measurable difference in humidity.Just a heads up...the above GX models have desiccant beads in them.
It's a good idea to dry them or swap them out occasionally. Many might not even know that they are there.
Let's assume you are drawing in air that is 55% Rh @ 25° C... your air will contain approximately 12.65 gm/M^3. If you fill a 550 cu in/9L SCBA tank without filtration and without bleeding off any water (you just fill the tank from empty to 310 bar/4500 psi), how many grams of water will be in your now-compressed SCBA tank?I have changed them in my CS3 and found no measurable difference in humidity.
Perhaps someone will spot the flaws, but here is what I have done for my (3) Yong Hengs, CS3, and some shoeboxes: I have measured ambient humidity (humidity of the air in the area from which the compressor is deriving air). RH is typically 55% or higher in this area. The meteorological reports match the results from my humidity meter.
Then, I have filled bottles, tanks, reservoirs and vented the air into a container (usually a plastic bag) in order to measure the relative humidity of the air that was compressed. This allows my humidity meter to measure the RH of the air at atmospheric pressure as it was designed. Relative humidity is less than 10%, which industrial steel storage standards consider "very dry".
I long ago stopped using additional filters or water traps, and simple vent a small amount, periodically when filling larger vessels.
As I understand the physics, there is virtually no water vapor present in compressed air, unless the temperature is extremely high (IIRC something like 600 F for 1,000 PSI air). That means, IMO, that any water present is in liquid form and any removal is a filtering or "sump" problem.
I found no difference in RH whether I used an inlet desiccant, outlet filter of larger size, additional water trap, etc.
What ambient relative humidity are you measuring in your compressed air?
Conservation, but you're on the right track. It's just an exercise in determining how much and where the water goes in a fill cycle, for fun.Conversation of mass. Every water molecule must be account for, barring a chemical or nuclear reaction.