GX CS4 Compressor - Initial Impressions

Remove the check valve assembly just to the left of the grease knob. Clean the check valve assembly and port throughly every hour or so of use, for the first few hours when new.
I’m assuming this is what you’re talking about? I hadn’t heard anything about taking this apart. Does it just unscrew? Any tiny bits that I need to worry will fall out?
If only there were decent instructions regarding operating and maintaining these pumps.

Curt

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I’m assuming this is what you’re talking about? I hadn’t heard anything about taking this apart. Does it just unscrew? Any tiny bits that I need to worry will fall out?
If only there were decent instructions regarding operating and maintaining these pumps.

Curt

View attachment 429749
Yes.. It's a 19mm or 3/4" socket (most lug nuts) It has a valve and rubber ball with a spring holding it down. Make sure after cleaning with Q-tips, that you put silicone on the o-ring before tightening it back down or it will eventually destroy the likely 70 dura o-ring. . The factory thinks the machine needs to run 2 hours without load with these parts removed but that seems a little unnecessary.
 
I’m assuming this is what you’re talking about? I hadn’t heard anything about taking this apart. Does it just unscrew? Any tiny bits that I need to worry will fall out?
If only there were decent instructions regarding operating and maintaining these pumps.

Curt

View attachment 429749
There is a YouTube vid from GX pump that shows how to remove and clean this out.
 
Yes.. It's a 19mm or 3/4" socket (most lug nuts) It has a valve and rubber ball with a spring holding it down. Make sure after cleaning with Q-tips, that you put silicone on the o-ring before tightening it back down or it will eventually destroy the likely 70 dura o-ring. . The factory thinks the machine needs to run 2 hours without load with these parts removed but that seems a little unnecessary.
I sure wish the instructions mentioned any of this. I hate to abuse machinery, and don’t mind doing some work, but if one doesn’t know….

What kind of silicone is recommended?

Thanks everyone!

Curt
 
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I sure wish the instructions mentioned any of this. I hate to abuse machinery, and don’t mind doing some work, but if one doesn’t know….

What kind of silicone is recommended?

Thanks everyone!

Curt
When I had a back and forth with them they said to use any food grade synthetic grease for the grease pot because all it does is grease the crank pin. They said food grade because if it says food grade on it there won't be an petroleum in it which may somehow get into the cylinders and not be good.
The grease for inside the cylinders had been shown a few times Renewable Bio grade E.P. grease. This will however also work in the grease pot just like kitchen food grade mixer grease. So one grease will work in both places and the crank bearing pin/bearing is really less likely to have issues as it's also hardened steel like the high pressure piston (small one) They didn't mention silicone to me.
 
OK
I'm no thoroughly confused about the proper grease to use in the CS4
And it has nothing to do with food grade.
The link below is a blog.
It (the link) was in the instructions that came with my CS4

In the blog, Food Grade Silicone Grease is recommended.
But why silicone?
I have always thought that silicone grease was not to be used for metal to metal contact

Thoughts please!

Edward

 
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OK
I'm no thoroughly confused about the proper grease to use in the CS4
And it has nothing to do with food grade.
The link below is a blog.
It (the link) was in the instructions that came with my CS4

In the blog, Food Grade Silicone Grease is recommended.
But why silicone?
I have always thought that silicone grease was not to be used for metal to metal contact

Thoughts please!

Edward

The only thing I can think of is the GX company tells people different things constantly about the lubrication. In the talks I had with them they never mentioned silicone at all and only said food grade so that the grease is certain not to have any petroleum in it. That seems to make sense to me. And you're correct about hearing silicone isn't good for metal on metal but i've never seen evidence that is isn't a good idea myself.
 
When I reached out to GX about the type of grease to use, I was also told Food Grade Silicone Grease. According to that Blog posted, that guy didn't seem to think it mattered due to the minimum amount used.

Since you don't want any petroleum based lubricants, what would be in Food Grade grease if it wasn't silicone?
@FLgunner.. Not sure if you were asking me or @ SilentSquirrel But they said nothing to me about silicone at all and pointed me to one of the greases someone linked to on this or a different post. The renewable E.P. grease and actually said it would work in either the grease pot for the crank or the cylinders with a rebuild. It is very confusing when they recommend different stuff to different people.
 
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It wasn't really directed towards anyone in particular, just anyone who may know. I'm sure there probably are other lubricants besides silicone that are Food Grade, but I don't know what they are and was just curious.
They linked to this for the grease pot and said it wasn't necessary to have the really good grease there. And said the more expensive tube was fine for either. But if just filling the grease pot the amazon grease was good.
https://www.amazon.com/KitchenKipper-Food-Grade-Grease-Safe/dp/B09VKGQD82/ref=sr_1_3?crid=33KWRVPPAM8T0&keywords=food+grade+grease&qid=1705738635&sprefix=food+grade+grease,aps,388&sr=8-3




And this for inside the cylinders

https://renewablelube.com/products/bio-food-grade-e-p-grease

But is seems they are telling people different things which is kind of confusing.
 
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Mine is still running strong! Just did the first turn of the knob on the grease pot last week. Yesterday I topped off my 90ci tank from about 2500 psi up to 4500 psi. It took about 15 minutes running nonstop and the temp only reached 106F. I'm very pleased with this computer!

Also, it's currently on sale at GX Pumps for $529.99. Use the code GX10OFF and it drops it to $477.00 shipped! This is the best price I have seen for the CS4!

 
Mine is still running strong! Just did the first turn of the knob on the grease pot last week. Yesterday I topped off my 90ci tank from about 2500 psi up to 4500 psi. It took about 15 minutes running nonstop and the temp only reached 106F. I'm very pleased with this computer!

Also, it's currently on sale at GX Pumps for $529.99. Use the code GX10OFF and it drops it to $477.00 shipped! This is the best price I have seen for the CS4!

I GOT SUCKED IN! Just ordered one.
 
DIstilled water has better thermal coefficient than any "antifreeze" so it cools better. Water wetter is like a non foaming soap. It decreases surface tension ( prevent large drops on a piece of glass). Which makes it cool even better and prevents corrosion. However it does not prevent freezing if you need that for your climate.
This is a fact. Ethylene glycol at 50/50 mix is about 20% less efficient at heat transfer than pure water. And on top of this, any closed-loop cooling system with antifreeze in it will turn acidic/caustic over time. For these compressors, the best solution is to use distilled water (cheap) and replace it annually if there is any sign of contaminants.

If you want to get a bit more heat transfer from that distilled water, use Water Wetter. Why? It's a surfactant and lubricant, and doesn't inhibit thermal conduction like antifreeze does.

Water wetter is a surfactant with anti corrosion and lubricant properties. It will not raise the boiling point of water. When you replace a water/coolant mixture with Water Wetter the cooling system gains thermal capacity because the specific heat of the water/Wetter mix is greater than water/coolant mix.

Water Wetter also has corrosion inhibitors and lubricants, which are gooder. But obviously, no anti-freeze properties, so that has to be accounted for in freezing climates.
 
Water Wetter also has corrosion inhibitors and lubricants, which are gooder. But obviously, no anti-freeze properties, so that has to be accounted for in freezing climates.
I have never seen anything to prove this claim other than anecdotal posts and advertising claims. Whether WW is "gooder" has never been proven to my satisfaction.

As far as a surfactant goes, just put a very small amount of a mild dish detergent in the cooling water and you have essentially what WW claims to do at about 1/10000th the price.

In the CS4, that would be less than a scant drop (1/4 of a drop would probably be more than enough) of Dawn dish detergent. However, distilled water works just fine, so why add anything unless you need to worry about it freezing. And if you need to worry about it freezing... well, I'm glad I don't live NEAR you! LOL!

All my best!

Kerry
 
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I have never seen anything to prove this claim other than anecdotal posts and advertising claims. Whether WW is "gooder" has never been proven to my satisfaction.

As far as a surfactant goes, just put a very small amount of a mild dish detergent in the cooling water and you have essentially what WW claims to do at about 1/10000th the price.

In the CS4, that would be less than a scant drop (1/4 of a drop would probably be more than enough) of Dawn dish detergent. However, distilled water works just fine, so why add anything unless you need to worry about it freezing. And if you need to worry about it freezing... well, I'm glad I don't live NEAR you! LOL!

All my best!

Kerry
No, I live in the Yard Dragon infested region of FL, so no worries here about freezing. And totally agree with you on using plain distilled water; best heat transfer available to us, and won't corrode over time.

  • TLDR;

    If one is fortunate enough to NOT live in freezing conditions (or keeps their compressor indoors), then distilled water may be preferred due to its superior heat transfer and lower maintenance requirements. (My personal preference)

    If one does require antifreeze, propylene glycol is "safer" when ingested, but is more viscous and has less heat transfer than ethylene glycol. So ethylene glycol may be preferred (though more toxic), just keep in mind iEG tends to turn acidic faster than PG (but we're talking years here, not months). With either one, I'd personally check the pH, and if I saw it dropping below 7.0-8.0, I'd do a drain and refill. Details below...

Clarification: I have never used WW personally, only know of it from car/truck forums over the years. It is basically water mixed with alcohol ethoxylate (trade secret on how much, but the MSDS for it says 10-30%) and the main purpose is to cause water to mix with oil (like dish soap).



CORRECTION: When I looked this up, I grabbed the MSDS for the wrong WW. Most people are referring to Redline WW, and I happened across a product of the same name by a different company. Later I found the correct MSDS for Redline WW, and discovered that it does NOT just use a surfactant, but a surfactant + a fungicide. Redline uses Diethanolamine (DEA), which is a corrosion inhibitor and surfactant and a weak base, as well as O-phenylphenol, which is a fungicide/disinfectant. Given these properties, I now believe using WW CAN provide better cooling as well as corrosion protection. But to see how truly effective it is in this low-heat application, one would have to run two machines side-by-side in the same environment to ascertain any gains that may be had. Two things that WW will do in the CS4 is 1) Add some color to the water, making it easier to see, and 2) Prevent fungus from growing. HTH, and sorry for any confusion my previous summation might cause anyone!



But does it provide better heat transfer than water alone? Maybe, but not much in a low-temp environment (as opposed to engines that get boiling hot and cause bubbles to form between the metal and water, thereby reducing cooling contact. In a system that doesn't seem to be getting much above 100° according to posts above, and remains FAR away from boiling, I would say distilled water alone would be best. Any system that contains glycol would need to be "maintained" as it turns acidic over time. Boiler maintenance companies recommend checking the pH regularly, and adding chemicals as necessary to maintain the pH above 8.0. (For us, the simplest solution would be to drain and refill if one is using either of the two glycols above). But I'd do the same thing with distilled water, personally.

If one lives in an area where freezing is an issue, it boils down to ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. PG is less toxic than EG, if there is any fear of children or pets drinking it (not likely in this closed system, but comes into play with external cooling methods such as the YH compressor owners seem to favor). EG may be more toxic, but it is less viscous, therefore provides better heat transfer. Either one requires "maintenance" to keep the pH high, so a biannual replacement of either is probably in order. (Or at least sampling the pH level from time to time)
 
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No, I live in the Yard Dragon infested region of FL, so no worries here about freezing. And totally agree with you on using plain distilled water; best heat transfer available to us, and won't corrode over time.

  • TLDR;

    If one is fortunate enough to NOT live in freezing conditions (or keeps their compressor indoors), then distilled water may be preferred due to its superior heat transfer and lower maintenance requirements. (My personal preference)

    If one does require antifreeze, propylene glycol is "safer" when ingested, but is more viscous and has less heat transfer than ethylene glycol. So ethylene glycol may be preferred (though more toxic), just keep in mind iEG tends to turn acidic faster than PG (but we're talking years here, not months). With either one, I'd personally check the pH, and if I saw it dropping below 7.0-8.0, I'd do a drain and refill. Details below...

Clarification: I have never used WW personally, only know of it from car/truck forums over the years. It is basically water mixed with alcohol ethoxylate (trade secret on how much, but the MSDS for it says 10-30%) and the main purpose is to cause water to mix with oil (like dish soap).

Is it any better than dish soap for this particular application? I cannot say. There are claims online that it has corrosion inhibitor properties, but I can find nothing about that in my research on alcohol ethoxylate. The only reason I would say it would have a benefit in the small cooling use of these compressors would be that IF it was anti-corrosive or had any lubricity properties (probably nil at best, but then again, this is a TINY cooling system), it would be better than water alone at keeping the system clean.

But does it provide better heat transfer than water alone? I doubt it. I'm sure that just as with either propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, it might actually reduce the transfer of heat. In a system that doesn't seem to be getting much above 100° according to posts above, and remains FAR away from boiling, I would say distilled water alone would be best. Any system that contains glycol would need to be "maintained" as it turns acidic over time. Boiler maintenance companies recommend checking the pH regularly, and adding chemicals as necessary to maintain the pH above 8.0. (For us, the simplest solution would be to drain and refill if one is using either of the two glycols above). But I'd do the same thing with distilled water, personally.

If one lives in an area where freezing is an issue, it boils down to ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. PG is less toxic than EG, if there is any fear of children or pets drinking it (not likely in this closed system, but comes into play with external cooling methods such as the YH compressor owners seem to favor). EG may be more toxic, but it is less viscous, therefore provides better heat transfer. Either one requires "maintenance" to keep the pH high, so a biannual replacement of either is probably in order. (Or at least sampling the pH level from time to time)
Very good post!

Since I only pump my PCPs indoors and have hygrometers so I at least know what the RH is, and depend on the NWS (National Weather Service) for Dew Point measurements... It baffles me that some people would place their CS4 where it even has the possible chance of freezing.

Then again, I don't live in an area like that. However, by observing the RH and dew point and pumping (hand pumped for years) I have never had a problem with moisture in my PCPs.

Oh well, I think I was digressing quite a bit above...

Thanks for your post as it pretty much verified what I already thought about products such as WW. I simply use distilled water and I check the color of it from time to time. If it starts to look different, I will purge it and refill with fresh distilled water.

Yeah, I know. There are many who can't afford a gallon of distilled water... I mean, it is probably $1 for a gallon! (chuckle)

Thanks again for the informative post!

All my best!

Kerry
 
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Very good post!

Since I only pump my PCPs indoors and have hygrometers so I at least know what the RH is, and depend on the NWS (National Weather Service) for Dew Point measurements... It baffles me that some people would place their CS4 where it even has the possible chance of freezing.

Then again, I don't live in an area like that. However, by observing the RH and dew point and pumping (hand pumped for years) I have never had a problem with moisture in my PCPs.

Oh well, I think I was digressing quite a bit above...

Thanks for your post as it pretty much verified what I already thought about products such as WW. I simply use distilled water and I check the color of it from time to time. If it starts to look different, I will purge it and refill with fresh distilled water.

Yeah, I know. There are many who can't afford a gallon of distilled water... I mean, it is probably $1 for a gallon! (chuckle)

Thanks again for the informative post!

All my best!

Kerry
Thanks, Kerry. The one thing folks in the freezing areas have over us is a naturally lower RH. Mine tend to run 60-85% about 10 months of the year.

But yeah, you are right. That $1 of distilled water should last what, about 10-11 years if changed every 12 months, and is THE best as well as the lowest-cost option out there. (And if anyone is hard up for money after buying the compressor, they can always drain the water thru a t-shirt into a glass and drink the water, so technically the total cost is reduced to $Free.99, lol.)

I have no idea what the RH inside my home is, perhaps it's high time I invest in a hygrometer? I could always bring the CS4 indoors to fill, not sure how much the Esposa would like that, but it's all for the good of preserving our investments, right? (I think I will just fill mine outside, but plan to build a rather large-surface pre-filter rilled with reusable media to assist with moisture control).

Interesting point about the hand pumping thing; something I have been too lazy to do, but it makes PERFECT sense to pay attention to RH/DP spread.

I am brand new to the compressor scene, but have been following threads on brands and moisture control for years. One thing I haven't discovered is how the CS4 handles the moisture... is their filter a molecular sieve? Cotton? Anything other than a collection/drain unit for water? Since the CS4 comes with a filter installed, I plan to use the below filter between the pump and my tanks, but will put some dri-air material between the cottons. Reckon that will be sufficient? I wanted to stay as small as possible so as to reduce the volume that is required to be pressurized each cycle. I would appreciate any thoughts from anyone with CS4 experience!

Thanks for the reply!

Dave


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